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Post by pathfinder3081 on May 18, 2012 11:00:14 GMT -5
How low can she go? I need to drop her to 83” clear! She’s a tall winch at about 87”. I am a strong believer that keeping stuff like this under shelter can determine the life and the maintenance of a vintage sweetheart like her. Sleeping outside every night alone? She could start leaking and I would not know it until we took her out again. I would love to have a nice covered lean too off a workshop and shed. But, I have no workshop and shed and that’s a couple thousand dollars away right now and that ain’t happening. SO HOW’s about something else, and chime in with suggestions or ideas if you have tackled the same obstacles. First I tried letting all of the air from the tires to rock bottom. I figured I would ease her in not more than 10 feet on a “flat but tight” tire and then pump the tires back up. Reverse the procedure every time I take her out. That would have been perfect.. It only gave about 3-1/2”. After pulling out the laser, bench marking the pitch of the tongue in a lower position this is what I have came up with. I have to go in with the wheel removed and the hub about ½” above the deck. My spring are on top of the axle so without making a super double wheeled hanger cradle, I found this point for bearing. It’s on the forward attachment to the spring. It’s the most rigid connection I can find. It's boxed with a vertical stiffener on it, connects to the main channel in the frame. These casters are steel and have a 1000# capacity. Grant you I will have to launch and lower the trailer on a small ramp or I will not be able to get the floor jack out. I might have to do few jack trick when I pull it out as well. ;D However, does anyone here think this would be a bad stress point. I’ve not been into the structure of these trailers at all. I don’t want bend her back too much or she’ll fold over like a wet sandwich. If this is doable I’ll get her head down to 82”. I’ll get the casters welded, nothing to heavy. Two or Three inches will hold the work for this load. They can stay there. They won’t come into contact with any movement or obstructions. If they wear out I’ll grind them off and go with two more. Attachments:
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Post by universalexports on May 18, 2012 12:07:29 GMT -5
I discovered with my deluxe, the frame is super rigid, I was getting all the thing in the air to flip the axle, and after adding the 3rd jackstand on one corner, all 4 corners were off the ground evenly. I planed to jack up each corner an inch at a time to avoid warping anything but it was super rigid and wasnt an issue.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on May 18, 2012 12:23:44 GMT -5
Looks like as good a spot as any, it's only a few inches from where all the weight sits normally, although you are cutting it down to two weight points instead of four. But you're not going to be towing it that way, so it's not going to be multiplying its own weight with the Gs you get going over bumps (just thinking out loud, trying to think of all the variables hehe). I'd make sure your tanks are empty, especially if they're not right over the axle, and remove heavy stuff like batteries, to lessen the bending loads, but I'd say go for it, it's a very creative solution.
Does your trailer weigh less than 2000lbs? The ones I've seen weights for, just casually reading the forums, all seem to be above that.
The only thing that makes me wonder is the floor of your garage, if it's on a slab, is it thick/strong/stable enough to take moving pinpoint weights like that without cracking? Maybe, and if you have the ceiling height once you're inside, you could build two low ramps out of 2 x 8s and leave it parked on them, that would spread the load out. And let you get underneath it when you need to.
I sure wouldn't leave it parked in the driveway on a hot day, hehe, but what a great idea. If you haven't named it, how 'bout "Limbo"?
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offspringin
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Never question the engineer's judgement!
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Post by offspringin on May 18, 2012 12:49:56 GMT -5
just my opinion but i would consider a larger caster. not for capacity but for ease of rolling. i believe you have the clearance to get a 5-6" caster on there. adding a 5" caster over the 3" would only increase overall height by 1". 5 bucks a caster is a great price but im just not sure 3" steel caster will roll that well with that weight on it unless on a totally smooth concrete floor, with no bumps/imperfections. also might help with getting the jack out without all the ramp shenanagins??? 5" casters should have overall height of about 6-6.25", i think thats still high enough to leave mounted.
all this is just IMO. i work developing carts and when our customers ask for tiny casters we usually steer them away from that idea due to how the preform in the field.
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Post by pathfinder3081 on May 18, 2012 13:10:44 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback brothers, universalexports; I feel pretty good about the rigid'ty as well. I did a leveling jack / tounge jack trick when I first got her checking the bearings and taking both the wheels off for some new tires. The leveling jacks were back on the rear spring bearing and she didn't seem to rack when I lifted her. Cowcharge; If this works, you've named our lady. She specs at 1730#, her ice box is gone and the wheels and tires will be off of her. Good point about the load per square inch though  I am a bridge estimator I shoul know this  When we built the place I do think I remember they did lay at least 5 inches reinforced on inside and 4000# concrete is typical with good builders and he was a good one. I'll throw the axel on jack stands when I get her in. Thus the weeknd will tell, and again thanks for the feedback!  Thanks there Offspring! I'd love to go with taller casters for the exact same reason.  I can just see these crashing at the expansion joint when I roll over the door sill. I just dont think that I'll get the clearance. The numbers won't add up. I am cutting it close with these. Time will tell and if nothing else, I just wasted a few dollars and half a day.  |
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Post by universalexports on May 18, 2012 18:11:25 GMT -5
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Post by pathfinder3081 on May 18, 2012 22:06:06 GMT -5
Rodger that universalexports, Plan "B". I talked to some guys in the shop about getting a rolled piece of 3/8" steel with breaks on the corners..holes ect..UGH!..More numbers but we are go'in to make 'em add up. Thanks man
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Post by bonniemiller on May 19, 2012 16:02:48 GMT -5
We're looking at a 1972 Compact, and are worried about this very issue. Does anyone know the exact height ? The person selling says it's 7'2" - does that seem right, including the vent?
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Post by Bow_Tied on May 19, 2012 18:47:13 GMT -5
This idea is not a lot of money and will save time: modify the garage header over the garage door. You will need to remove the siding and cut it and put some J trim at the cut edges to mak it look nice. While the siding is off cut the door header out and reframe it. Might need some 2x4s. Reinstall the header on hinges. I stall the cut siding on the header. This is a medium project for a weekend but I once done will be a simple matter of pushing out the header panel. No messing around with deflation and wrecking your tires. Just thought I'd throw that out there. The previous owner of my house did this for an RV.
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Post by pathfinder3081 on May 19, 2012 22:06:32 GMT -5
We're looking at a 1972 Compact, and are worried about this very issue. Does anyone know the exact height ? The person selling says it's 7'2" - does that seem right, including the vent? I bet that dose not include the vent freind. |
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 2, 2012 21:45:38 GMT -5
It worked and I had a few inches to spare.. thanks for the tip,,... I might go with bigger wheels. Attachments:
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 2, 2012 21:48:06 GMT -5
All a matter of gettin small as we say in the Marine Corp! Attachments:
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 2, 2012 21:50:19 GMT -5
Mmmmm.. squeeze in there girl  Attachments:
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 2, 2012 21:59:41 GMT -5
Seems the bearing point that I choose and many here agreed on was the "dead" center. I can pick up the rear oR the front in balance.. My girl is going to rest well this winter and I don't have to drop a pocket of cash and time to build her a shed.... $12.00 and a Saturday afternoon well spent.. Attachments:
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 2, 2012 22:04:47 GMT -5
SO how low can you go? ;D Get small! The Ubolt are about 1/2 inch above the deck As the procedure progressed I found that I needeed no ramps and no tricks. The floor jack made short time of the ups and downs of it. I do "First" take off tire one and lower her down to a 2x6 under the new caster. Then tire two comes off and the caster goes straight to the deck. The pitch is a little high not to start out with the 2x6 at tire one. And I decided to drill and bolt the caster in. It was pain, but worked. Just start with a 1/8" pilot and work your way up to the 5/16". I just used 2 bolts per caster. Then at the front Hitch / Tounge, I put a caster on a 2x6 and just "C-clamped" for now. The Hitch is low!! Too low for the truck, I gotta figure somehing out with that.. I just used the Lawn mower for now. It's a good feeling keeping her covered. I am not having to do any work on my girl right now.. Lets hope and pray it stays that way. Attachments:
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
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Post by cowcharge on Jun 3, 2012 2:57:46 GMT -5
Keep yer fingers out from under that axle, mate! |
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 3, 2012 8:58:12 GMT -5
Keep yer fingers out from under that axle, mate! Rodger that capt'n.. I kept wait'n for her to bottom out as I let the jack down.. But the numbers added up |
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boandsusan
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Christmas parade 2012
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Post by boandsusan on Jun 19, 2012 23:14:41 GMT -5
That would be too scary for me. I`d raise the header on the garage door, if we had a garage lol. Definately need to figure out something for our baby before the Winter.
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Post by hedgehog on Jun 29, 2012 12:18:51 GMT -5
An old pait of rollerskates the we used to clip ighten on our shoes might ne what I will look for
at the next flea/antique market I attend.I want to put my 65 compact in soon taking off the tires.
My garage door header is steel Ibeam so it has to stay where it is.
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offspringin
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Never question the engineer's judgement!
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Post by offspringin on Jun 29, 2012 14:22:09 GMT -5
Our garage is not an option for us. Wish it was.... that's why we built the carport though... Shasta port... eventually it will be the Shasta garage but to cut all the costs at once its just a car port for now |
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Ian
50 Post Member
Trailer noob
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Post by Ian on Jul 3, 2012 0:11:47 GMT -5
We're looking at a 1972 Compact, and are worried about this very issue. Does anyone know the exact height ? The person selling says it's 7'2" - does that seem right, including the vent? I can measure ours, it's a '66 Compact. It fits in our back garage with an 8 ft door. It also depends on how the axle is set up. ours had been flipped, and we flipped it back to drop it a good 6", looks like it's supposed to now. |
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Post by dagtone207 on Oct 14, 2012 13:47:52 GMT -5
Hey Pathfinder,
I have the same garage height as you (and the same Shasta)
Do you remove your roof vents to make this work? I don't see them in the photos, and it doesn't look like mine will go in with them on there. Thanks, Dave
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Oct 14, 2012 21:50:06 GMT -5
Hey Dave,
Our Shasta dos not have a roof vent. Odd, perhaps. It does not have the Loflyte logo under the Emblem either. I don't know if it was an extra that the first guy skipped on or not. Everything else checks in, just know roof vent. Kinda glad though. I did have a couple of inches left with her as she is. I'm going to put her in for the winter in a couple of weeks, I can draw a tape and let you know when I do.
Good luck Dave, this will work and it's not that much trouble once it's done. I do hope that your numbers will add up.
Scott
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 20, 2012 3:59:29 GMT -5
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znorm
100 Post Member
Go camping before the big one gets away!
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Post by znorm on Nov 9, 2012 1:20:45 GMT -5
I put my 1964 Shasta Airflyte on car dollies and stored in the garage. I am 1-1/2" from the floor to the closest piece of the frame. I bought 4 of them from Harbor Freight tools. When my trailer is pulled out of the garage I will raise it with bumper jacks to reinstall the axle. It is nice to have it out of the weather.
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Nov 11, 2012 18:47:15 GMT -5
Flash on a problem dodged! First of all Happy Birthday to all my fellow Marines.. I pulled the camper in for the winter months this weekend. I took off the tires, pushed her in and leveled her up. Yikes! I came so close to ripping the roof with the guide arm of the garaged door. That would have so sucked!!! So be aware. I am going to drop her about an inch tomorrow. Process was, that I got her in, threw the leveling jacks under the high corner and they are almost bottomed out. I then pulled out the 4 foot level and a crank her here and a crank there... I topped out. Attachments:
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Nov 11, 2012 18:51:15 GMT -5
After finding a good "level" zone I scotched up the casters so I would eliminate any bounce going in and out this winter. This is how they look now... I need to drop another 1/2 inch or so... Other that that.. My plan was perfect for me...Thank you Lord!! Nothing like a hole in the roof to make ya wanna strip it for parts..  Attachments:
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I am a bridge estimator I shoul know this 
When we built the place I do think I remember they did lay at least 5 inches reinforced on inside and 4000# concrete is typical with good builders and he was a good one. I'll throw the axel on jack stands when I get her in.
I can just see these crashing at the expansion joint when I roll over the door sill. I just dont think that I'll get the clearance. The numbers won't add up. I am cutting it close with these. Time will tell and if nothing else, I just wasted a few dollars and half a day. 
