|
Post by vcutelli on Sept 13, 2010 12:46:23 GMT -5
I am ready to put the two fixed windows back in my1960 Airflyte. The ones with all the screws. What is the best way to do this? Do I put the screws in first or last? It had some strips of plywood holding the glass on the inside. Any better way of doing this? It looks like a leaker for sure?
|
|
|
Post by franksshasta on Sept 13, 2010 20:22:42 GMT -5
Screws in first. Place the window gasket around the metal. Cut the wood strips to fit around the opening. If you are going tight with the wood strips, the angle is 5 degrees. I realize that some out there may disagree but I did put a small bead of silicone (grey) around the window gasket. Not much, but just enough to get a good seal when the strips are pushed to the window tight and scewed in place. Done.
|
|
|
Post by Hugh Currin on Sept 15, 2010 21:54:48 GMT -5
I found several threads relating to these side dinette windows but this seems to be the newest so I'll respond here. We're restoring/renovating a 1955 14' Shasta.
I really dislike the set up of these windows, history (rotten wood) has proven them to be less than robust. From the threads it seems I'm not alone. I'm now into the walls and trying to figure out a better way to put these windows back in.
The "Hehr Standard Glass Seal" from VTS [http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Hehr_Standard_Glass_Seal_p/vts-195x.htm] sure looks like the original seal. This works well on the Hehr windows so the seal by itself should be good. The two elements the Hehr windows have over these dinette windows are 1) springs pushing the glass against the frame and 2) a flat rigid frame. I'm thinking a "spring" pushing the glass against the seal would help a lot. I'm considering putting a "1/4" Closed Cell Backer Rod" [http://www.amazon.com/Closed-Cell-Backer-Rod-Roll/dp/B001OBTZ1E] between the glass and the original thin plywood strips (well solid wood replacing the plywood 'cuz the plywood is cheap and rotted). This foam should give some spring continually pushing the glass against the seal. If the aluminum siding is flat enough (should be with that many screws) this should give a reasonable seal. A little silicone on the glass side of the gasket would help if the "skin" is at all wavy. Maybe a better sealant than silicone?
On a related thread [front side windows] montanablue (Rick) used butyl putty between the gasket and glass. It doesn't seem as clean or original as the above but may work better. Anyone have further insight?
I'm looking for input, both on the above or other "proven" solution. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Hugh Currin Klamath Falls, OR
|
|
joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
|
Post by joek on Sept 16, 2010 0:01:15 GMT -5
Well, I took the path that Frank pointed out. Works fine for so far. I'll be keeping an eye on it though. even with that many screws, it's just not that flat, especially at the horizintal seam in the siding.
|
|
|
Post by Hugh Currin on Sept 16, 2010 21:22:08 GMT -5
Joe:
The not flat enough would cause problems. I may try a thin layer of butyl putty tape between the glass and skin/seal. I like this tape, some original construction was done with this on out 1955 and it's still pliable. This scheme would move the glass inward and may cause problems with the inside aluminum window frame fit though. I'll have to measure carefully or just try it.
I have some work to do before I'm ready to replace them, but it's a problem area I'm already worried about. Good to know there are solutions.
Thanks for the help.
Hugh Currin Klamath Falls, OR
|
|
Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
|
Post by Gone Kayaking on Apr 3, 2011 10:23:00 GMT -5
Hugh, Joe, Frank or others Any update on this? While I was destructing, one of my dinette windows broke so that is now added to my list. What method seems to be holding up the best? Hugh, how did the springs work with the aluminum trim?
|
|