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Post by LittleVintageTrailer on Oct 7, 2010 17:39:12 GMT -5
Has anyone resealed their roof themselves? If so, can you give me a quick how-to? Does it go on with a roller? Also can you recommend the best type of roof sealer to use? Does the outside temp need to be fairly warm when resealing?
I may need to just do this myself as it doesn't look like I can get it in to the RV place anytime soon as they are way booked right now. The bearings I guess I can wait for a couple months but wanted to at least get the roof done.
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pga26
100 Post Member
Posts: 116
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Post by pga26 on Oct 7, 2010 17:44:50 GMT -5
i've read elsewhere that these old trailers shouldn't be coated with a roof coating, but just painted. the design doesn't really allow leaking if there aren't pinholes (or holes of any kind) and if the butyl putty tape along the edges is sound. i think you mentioned on your blog that you are hoping to seal up the edges at some point. if you aren't getting any leaking i would just clean the roof, sand, prime, and paint. thx!
paul
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Post by Shutzee on Oct 7, 2010 20:37:54 GMT -5
I sealed my roof myself using some stuff called Manus. Here is a link with it for sale: www.amazon.com/Manus-Bond-Weatherproof-Flexible-Strong/dp/B001YAZ12WPut it on with a roller and a brush. It's really thick. No leaks and we have had record rainfalls here in Minnesota. I also went around the whole trailer a laid a light bead of caulk in all the seams. Probably against all "rules" but I was most concerned about keeping her dry. Good Luck and Love that Astrodome!!!!! |
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Post by LittleVintageTrailer on Oct 7, 2010 21:47:23 GMT -5
Yeah, I definitely want to put some coat of roof sealer on. I don't mind if it's not the "norm" to do. Will just make me feel better to have a coat of sealer on there and the seams re-sealed as well.
Shutzee, do you know how many of those cans it would take to do a roof on a Shasta our size?
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Post by Shutzee on Oct 8, 2010 6:20:26 GMT -5
My husband the expert tells me the best way to put it on is with a trowel or paintbrush. He wasn't around when I put mine on. It is self-leveling. I used almost one can so I would think two cans would cover yours. My seems to attract dirt and keep it. Haven't washed the trailer yet this season so will have to see if it comes off. It's high enough where it doesn't show that much though.
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Post by Red Dirt on Oct 8, 2010 9:14:34 GMT -5
I have been looking at the elastomeric roof coatings for a while now. I noticed that I have a couple cracks in my Dicor self leveling sealant on my roof seams after only a year. I ordered some Trem Pro, I will try it next. I had thought about applying some elastomeric or similar coating in a 6 inch path along the seams to protect the sealant. The Shasta is "garaged" so I don't worry about repeated rains, just camp outs. I have bookmarked the Manus coating link.
Red Dirt
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Post by LittleVintageTrailer on Oct 8, 2010 16:44:06 GMT -5
Red Dirt,
Do you just apply over the old stuff? Or scrap off and reseal?
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Post by Red Dirt on Oct 8, 2010 18:13:00 GMT -5
Most say that you can apply it over just about any old coatings, but I tend to not believe what it says on the can. I would try to get off what I could, if nothing else but for the weight, especially if it is that old silver asphalt junk. But mainly I would get all the loose, flaking, peeling stuff off, then clean it with a paint prepping fluid like tsp, mineral spirits, alcohol etc.
Red Dirt
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Post by seemore4x4 on Oct 19, 2010 0:11:49 GMT -5
I haven't worried about the roof of my 14' Taylor trailer since I coated it with Elastomeric. It's been at least 5 years since I did it and no problems. The original intent was to also seal the first 8" or so of the awning. I will most likely use Elastomeric on the '64 Shasta also.
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Post by airflyte59 on Nov 5, 2010 12:24:37 GMT -5
use Elastomic H.D. roof coating after sealing all the roof seams with OSI Caulking.
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annie
50 Post Member
Posts: 51
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Post by annie on May 24, 2011 2:19:30 GMT -5
how often do you think you should apply this to the roof?
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Post by lopo on Mar 1, 2012 10:58:11 GMT -5
I guess this is a dumb question, but how do I reach all of the roof to scrape the old stuff off? If looks like a hands-and-knees job but surely I can't be crawling around on the roof. Do the rest of you just have long arms or what?
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Post by dragonfly on Mar 1, 2012 11:11:54 GMT -5
Elastomeric with a brush and roller, a couple of coats. Yes, I noticed it attracts dirt. It is amazing the difference by touch to the hand, how much cooler the elastomeric area is.
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Post by thehorsepeople4 on Mar 1, 2012 13:09:25 GMT -5
Lopo-
One method is to take 2X6 boards and place one on each long edge of your trailer. Place another two 2X6 boards across the width of the trailer about 3 feet apart. .The edge boards sit on the top edge of the trailer and width boards sit on top of those to keep you off the center. Use a couple of short pieces of 2X6 to kneel on as you work your way across the trailer.
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Post by lopo on Mar 1, 2012 15:19:38 GMT -5
Ahhh. Got it! That keeps my weight on the frame rather than the lighter roof. Thanks so much.  |
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vikx
3K Post Member
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Post by vikx on Mar 2, 2012 1:16:01 GMT -5
Roof coatings are just that: Coatings. They are not meant to seal but to reflect UV rays and beautify. Read the directions on the can; it states not for ponding water... how many of our little trailers have dips here and there? Most coatings claim to "protect" not seal...
If the trailer is leaking, the edge trim and vent should be re-puttied. Roof protrusions are sealed with Dicor self leveling lap sealant. Dicor will crack but can be touched up and sticks to itself.
I've spent many years around RVs and the coatings eventually fail. They will peel and crack, allowing water to creep underneath, rotting the aluminum. It is much quicker to coat the roof rather than repair properly but in the end, those repairs will be necessary.
There are products meant to seal and one, Liquid Roof, uses a catalyst to form a rubber layer. It is used on EPDM rubber roofs.
In my opinion, coating on the roof lowers a vintage trailer's value significantly.
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Post by blu26ovl on Mar 2, 2012 10:18:39 GMT -5
When I got my compact and started the rebuild I had planned to coat the roof since that seemed to be the thing to do but as I read and saw where they crack and discolor after awhile I decided to paint. The only roof leak I had was around the vent. With the seams looking good (the way they are crimped I don't see how they can leak) and no holes I painted. If your looking to help with cooling, before I painted mine you could not put your hand on the top with just the bare aluminum where the paint had faded off but after painting gloss white you can lay your hand on it feeling very little heat. The white reflects very well and gives a nice appearance. I can wash it just like the rest of the trailer to keep it shiny and clean. Just use sealer around vents as needed.
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Mar 3, 2012 2:11:09 GMT -5
This is an old thread but has important information. All of us have coated a roof or two. Luckily, mine was a 72 Holiday Rambler that wasn't worth much. It never did stop leaking...
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Post by sandanddiesel on Jul 27, 2012 10:20:44 GMT -5
So, what I'm getting here is that its best to treat the areas most likely to be leaking such as vents, seams and defects rather than just applying a coat of whatever to what may be perfectly good aluminum sheeting with no holes? I just bought a 1970 18' and am at square one: make it weather resistant so we can gut and repair the rotted interior.
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