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Post by Dee in NC on Feb 27, 2011 21:22:43 GMT -5
We're wondering if there should be some kind of sealant or putty between the door frame and the aluminum skin. Is there a reason that this area doesn't have a sealant of some kind?
It seems odd that the aluminum around the door (the frame) wouldn't have been sealed against the skin somehow, especially considering that it seems water came in through this area and ran down to the threshold, rotting it away. Hmm. Should this be sealed? Maybe the guys were going to lunch and wanted to get the door in quickly and forgot?
Our door is back in place for now, but we're considering pulling it and sealing it somehow. Any suggestions?
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jessie
100 Post Member
Abbey, our 1969 Compact
Posts: 130
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Post by jessie on Feb 28, 2011 11:28:43 GMT -5
I have this exact question, as we have just re-framed the door and are getting ready to put it back on. We want to be sure there's a tight, waterproof seal... but what would work best?
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Post by kevschofield on Mar 1, 2011 12:20:11 GMT -5
I have my door and frame off and there was old butyl type tape in there.. it was definitely OLD. I've got it all cleaned up and when I reinstall the door I'm going to reseal the perimeter using the same butyl I got for the windows.. maybe a double thick layer to make sure its all squished and sealed in there
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jessie
100 Post Member
Abbey, our 1969 Compact
Posts: 130
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Post by jessie on Mar 1, 2011 13:50:25 GMT -5
cool! thanks~
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Mar 3, 2011 1:28:24 GMT -5
There was no tape in my door, or the door jamb to the body. I rebuilt the door and used Vulkem during assembly of the door, figured I'd never have to take it apart again. As for the door jamb, I certainly used Butyl tape all around. I also made a little door threshold so water runs down and hits this, then rolls out.
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Mar 3, 2011 1:32:44 GMT -5
Roofers tacky tape is very thin and about 1/2" wide. I've used it to seal the door trim. It seems to be pure butyl and very sticky. It is made to go between metal sheets and most roofing companies sell it.
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Post by Dee in NC on Mar 3, 2011 13:27:48 GMT -5
Thanks - I was thinking of using butyl tape, but the roofer's tape might work better and distort the door frame less. We've already taken the door out TWICE to fix the floor, so something removable is better.
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Post by flyingham on Mar 25, 2011 19:25:36 GMT -5
I rebuilt mine, and used automotive seam sealer to close it, hope I never have to go back in for repairs! But if I had to, it will always stay pliable, and can be cut with a razor knife.
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jun 19, 2011 23:30:22 GMT -5
I've been using fortiflash around the door and window openings. For the door threshold, I'm following Joe K's lead. There's a z shaped piece where the door hits, and then water hopefully as joe says runs out over the threshold. I am re-cutting the flashing for the baggage doors, mine was a mess and I have plenty of extra aluminum. In addition to the flashing I will do a bead of t vulkem behind them. same for the door.
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