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Post by waywardho on Apr 12, 2011 0:18:26 GMT -5
I would so much appreciate any advice you can give on the process for repainting this poor old ice box! I hope someone out there has done this and can tell me the best paint and how durable it actually is and any other bits and pieces you can offer! Thank you! Janet Attachments:
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Post by waywardho on Apr 12, 2011 0:19:46 GMT -5
Oh, and the interior is just lovely as well! ;D Attachments:
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Post by dawgpound on Apr 12, 2011 6:59:27 GMT -5
I have restored a few 1920 -1930 iceboxes in my day. I also repainted the icebox door and range hood in our 1971 Shasta Compact. Just didn't want that avocado green.
On the Shasta, I went to Lowes and purchased a spray can of white Appliance Paint. I first washed the pieces to be painted with a mild soap and warm water and dried the thoroughly. Lightly scuff sanded, using 220 wet/dry sandpaper. If there is any rust, you will need to use a brass wire brush or 120 grit sandpaper and try to remove as much rust as possible. Now the bare metal areas will need to be spot primed with a rust inhibitive primer, such as Rustoleum rusty metal primer (red oxide). Spray a few light coats of the primer over the areas and allow to dry over night.
Lightly sand, using the 220 wet/dry over the entire piece, once again. This will smooth out any of the over-spray from the primer. Lightly spray the Appliance Paint over the entire piece and let dry. No need to try to get everything fully cover in one or two coats....you will be disappointed in the out come. Just take your time and it usually takes at least 4 coats of paint until it looks great. If you need more coats, then spray a few more on. Make sure to lightly sand between the first couple of coats of paint. Sanding is really not need between the last few coats, as long as you spray paint within a few hours of each coat.
Just remember, the more you spend on prepping (cleaning and sanding) the happier you will be with the end result. Also, always read the directions on the paint cans.
I have been restoring antiques & furniture for about 30 years and vintage trailers for about 7 years. I don't consider myself as an expert, because there is always another technique to learn. I just enjoy restoring history and sharing what I have learned over the years, if it can help others. Someone else passed on their knowledge to me and I like doing the same.
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Post by waywardho on Apr 12, 2011 16:36:28 GMT -5
I so thank you for taking the time write up such a great "tutorial". I never thought of spot priming and would have done the whole thing. And it helps to know about how many times it will have to be painted. I think I will get started on it soon and will let you know my progress. I wish I could get the colors to match the stove and will have to look around. I know Rustoleum does have some cool colors out now, but if need be it will have to be white or black, not sure yet. Again, thank you for such a great response. It is a blessing to have a place to share information! No matter how many times you do this it seems you will always run across something that can be done different or better.
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Post by dawgpound on Apr 12, 2011 18:59:59 GMT -5
Here is a thought, if the stove is in decent shape....paint wise and you would rather keep the icebox door the same you can have the paints custom mixed. It can get a little pricey.
To recreate the "Halo" effect is real easy to do.
Find an automotive paint store. Take the icebox door and have them custom match the lighter tone and the darker tone. If they can custom mix it in one pint units, it would be super, more then likely it will have to be in one quart units. Depending on the automotive paint, it will be a 3 part paint....paint, hardener & thinner. They may recommend that you use an Epoxy Primer. This stuff is great and you can use it in stead of Rustoleum primer for the interior rusty areas, too.
You don't need an air compressor and expensive spray guns for this process. At the automotive paint store, they should carry an aerosol spray unit made by PREVAL SPRAYER. It is an aerosol unit with a one pint bottle for your custom mixed paint. I really love these for doing touch up work!
Once the colors have been matched, the fun begins. Using the epoxy primer, prime the entire door front. Allow to fully dry and lightly sand....just to smooth out any trash that may have landed into the primer. Start off with the lighter shade of paint. Spray in one direction, let it rest about 2 minutes and spray another coat from the opposite direction. This is called a "WET COAT", because the first coat has only 'Flashed" (the surface has dried.... but not to the touch). Once the paint looks good, clean the sprayer out.
Once the first coat has dried about an hour, it is time for the "HALO" effect. With the door laying flat on a box and facing up, start spraying the darker shade from the further most edge and work your way towards the center. Spray nice and straight lines and stop about 4" or so from the outside edge towards the center. Either walk to the right or the left of the door panel and start spraying another edge....nice straight lines and about 4" or so from the outside edge towards the center. Continue this process until all four edges have been sprayed.
I hope this makes sense. If you look at the original paint job, it will make sense.
If they recommend that you spray a clear coat over the solid colors, go with what they say. They know their paints and what they sold you.
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Post by painterman on Jan 25, 2013 14:50:37 GMT -5
Just repainted my ice box in my 1962 shasta with a a custom color I had made at sherwin williams. I also painted the range and the furnace grate with a retro teal matched from our seats. The key is to clean very well and then spray a primer called pro-cryl and then finish which is called sher-cryl, all of which is water based and made for roofs. Lightly sand between coats. As far as the range top I decided to strip itand leave it raw do the heat. she will last! I have not done the inside, not in bad shape
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
Posts: 1,134
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 25, 2013 15:59:36 GMT -5
I let the painter do mine when I get the trailers painted... ;D
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jan 25, 2013 21:45:32 GMT -5
I think that someone out there had theirs powder coated along with the stove. Don't know for sure. Hamlet's icebox looked like yours, the stove was missing. We found a vintage stove, but it was black, so we decided to paint the icebox to match. Make sure you get the door off and completely clean. Remove every piece of trim and hardware that you can. A completely clean, smooth surface will make the results look professional. We used the appliance paint, but it took a few tries to get it right. So, yes, strip completely, prime, and then coat (we used 3 coats, but 4 will work even better), and follow the directions on the can to the letter.
We have used the custom mixed auto paint for other projects. The auto supply store charged $20 for the can, but we found that Maaco (the auto paint place) would do the same can for $15. The stuff from HD runs a little less than $10, if I remember correctly, and one can of either should do it. Good luck, and we all want to see the results!
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 25, 2013 22:23:11 GMT -5
I used rustoleum white on the frame and the painter matched the stove with this yellow for the door. 0000 steel wool alone with some elbow grease got the hinges and door handle into a nice new shine. Attachments:
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Post by schweetcruisers on Jan 25, 2013 23:28:32 GMT -5
I painted mine, I striped the old finish off, sprayed self etching primer, two coats of my color, then 3 coats of automotive clear coat.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jan 26, 2013 12:49:57 GMT -5
Mobiltec, that's gorgeous! Did you do the same white on the inside? Ours was pretty wretched inside as well as out, but after steel wool, sanding, and several coats of the white, it looks almost like new, and has had no problems form many blocks of ice sitting in it.
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
Posts: 1,134
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 26, 2013 13:32:42 GMT -5
Mobiltec, that's gorgeous! Did you do the same white on the inside? Ours was pretty wretched inside as well as out, but after steel wool, sanding, and several coats of the white, it looks almost like new, and has had no problems form many blocks of ice sitting in it. I did the front of the shelf only. I figure all the banging around of not only the ice, but the food items if you use your ice box, the paint will just chip off and then clog up the drain. Then the ice would melt, overflow the shelf it's on and flood out onto my nice floor. Attachments:
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jan 26, 2013 16:38:14 GMT -5
Ah, yours wasn't painted to begin with. Ours had what I think was originally a porcelain glaze. It was chipped and ugly. Never thought of just sanding it down and leaving it!
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mobiltec
1K Post Member
Restoring The 57 Shasta
Posts: 1,134
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 26, 2013 23:23:04 GMT -5
Ya if you think you can get it all off. Seems like it would be tough to sand the inside of one of those LOL... Especially if it's porceline. Would cost a small fortune to recoat the porceline too. Rustoleum stands up to moisture pretty good so if I was going to paint it with anything it would be that.
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Post by stecasa on Feb 18, 2013 13:01:39 GMT -5
Hello
I was going to paint my appliances but ended up powdercoating in white after hearing that the paint would not hold up to the heat. it was easy to do and cost was around 200. The finished product is high gloss and very strong as it is baked at 500 degrees. Good alternative if the paint buckles.
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