Replacing ceiling- need advice

[blueskidoo]

So, I have decided to move the ceiling replacement project up rather than replace the roof vent and then do the ceiling later. Of course once I get it started I may also need to do some work on the back wall as well, but I hope not. (It is a 74 Compact)

So- I am taking the trailer with me to the "Space Coast" of Florida for two weeks at the end of June, and my Dad is going to help me.

It is my job to research the job and buy/order/ list out whatever we are going to need to do this. I am hoping to do a skin on ceiling replacement, but I am open to a skin off replacement if I must.

I also want to reseal the windows and the edge trim, though I think I can manage the edge trim without help. The ceiling is the priority for this trip.

With this in mind, can you point me to resources to read and e-mail to Dad, and help me make a list of what I need and what I should do?

So far I have- buy new roof vent. Scrape off as much of the silver coating as possible. Buy Buytle Tape (any specific brand better than others?) get a jig thing to join the framing (I need to track down the name of that thing again) An oscillating saw would be useful for demolition. Sealant for the roof vent and the trim screws.

If I take off all the trim, should I replace all the screws too?

Is the framing 1X2? What sort of insulation is best? I think I have some plastic for a vapor barrier.

I saw someone suggested somewhere to use metal tape on the framing around the vent to help prevent future rot from condensation? Anyone ever heard of that?

I would really appreciate any advice you might have to offer. I have a limited window to work with my Dad (he has experience in building things) and I want to make the most of it.

Thanks so much!

[vikx]

Well, sounds like Fun to me!

You can do a roof on ceiling replacement but you'll have to add support boards along the edges. Once the ceiling panels are removed, you will know more. Sometimes the roof has to be lifted to repair the laminated edges. If it's still usable, you will need to glue toothpicks or dowels in the old screw holes. That gives the edge trim screws good "grab" for the edge trim.

The edge trim needs new putty tape rather than resealing. Most RV shops carry butyl putty tape. It isn't pure butyl tape, but a mix and white in color, crinkly paper wrap. Re-puttying the edge trim is the most critical leak preventative you can do. It is usually the culprit when a trailer leaks. Yes, replace the screws. 8 x 1" hex heads are good.

Windows are best pulled and re-puttied as well.

The sealant I use for the roof vent and other protrusions is Dicor self leveling lap sealant. It is a sticky liquid bubble gum sort of stuff and can be touched up, as it sticks to itself. (Never use silicone on a vintage trailer)

Styrofoam or Reflectix silver bubble wrap insulation works well. Neither absorbs moisture and both are fairly easy to work with. I like Reflectix the best. The metal tape at seams will form a vapor barrier without the need for plastic. You can tape around the vent but with a good putty job and Dicor, it shouldn't be necessary.

Hope this helps.

[blueskidoo]

I am really looking forward to spending the time with my Dad, he turned 70 last year and is a very busy guy. Your reply is very helpful. Are the support boards you speak of for the paneling?

And what are the "laminated edges" Edges of what? The roof skin? The paneling? Sorry for all the questions, but I am teachable, direct-able, enthusiastic worker bee. I don't actually know anything.

[Gone Kayaking]

I think the laminated edges are the built up pieces of plywood that they used along the edges as nailers for the birch paneling (or other wood paneling) that covers the framing. If your corners are rotted, it's likely that this is also falling apart.
I concur strongly on putting supports in (2x4's propping up the trailer from the inside) so that it doesn't slump while you are working on it. I wish I had done that as mine definitely slumped and had to be jacked up on one side to make things fit.
VK is one of the masters on this board...good advice. I would also recommend reading the restoration posts especially Kevin Schofield, Flying Ham's 72 disasta, and gremlin guy. Joe K's airflyte posts have great info on trim and other issues. ANd if you want to see how a real newb is doing it, look at mine. I did a bit of cieling (not the whole thing).

[vikx]

Gone Kayaking hit the nail on the head... laminated (glued layers) plywood was used to form the wood edges. The edge trim screws thru the skin into the edges, so they need to be firm and allow the screws to pull the trim into the putty. (seat the trim)

I seem to be repeating myself on two threads, please bear with me. On the supports, they will be in the way to install the ceiling panels. The panels need to be cut as tight as possible and still fit, so you might be able to make a "T" to hold one end while doing the other.

I have pictures of the support boards for the ceiling but am having trouble uploading. I really like using screws and trim sticks for the ceiling panels because they add a lot of sheer strength.

[vikx]

Here is the picture of the support boards. I kerfed them to follow the curves... These allow you to firmly attach the ceiling panel edges. Lowe's sells some synthetic floppy trim that works really well to cover the raw edges.

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[blueskidoo]

I started a build thread here vintageshasta.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=shastaownersrestorations&thread=2387&page=1

[blueskidoo]

THanks so much for this great information I can't wait to use it!