Brake plates and shoe s

[sparky1]

I took mine off went to Northern Tool they had the exact item to replace my 10" brakes $99.99 made by Dexter, fit perfectly
Dexter .
Northern P/N = 12496 (1) left (1) right side, shoes, magnet, brake plate,--nuts---whole works,

sparky1

[Red Dirt]

That's great, maybe we need a place to list parts/numbers of various parts. Thanks for the info.

[Atomic Addiction]

Red, You are right.

I think the best way to do that is this: I will start a parts list in a category. That list will be posted by me and will be stickied to the top. That post will also be locked. (so it doesn't become a discussion area). Members that would like to add their findings to the list can PM me here on the forum and I will add their find to the list.

It should work well. That way the replacement parts lists will be in their appropriate categories.

Brian

[Red Dirt]

Sounds good.

[girlscamp]

Brought 73 Compact home yesterday, didn't even know it had brakes, terrifying experience.... I think the guy that rewired the hookup did in wrong, if I put on the flashers on, the brakes worked, if I put on the left turning signal, the brakes worked, and when I touched the brakes if jumped and rocked...scary, so I finally just unplugged the connection and took the risk that the police would not see that I had no rear towing lights....then she towed fine. It has been sitting for 4 years....can someone please tell me where to begin here? It needs new tires and I guess someone to check out the proper wiring connection. Help? girlscamp

[Red Dirt]

The best way to way to start is to test each line in your harness.
First make sure your harness on your car is correct. Right stop/turn is green, left stop and turn is yellow. brown is taillights/marker/running lights, white is ground. Here is a helpful link on wiring:

www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

If you know your vehicle harness is good, then move on to the trailer. Using a 12 volt power source, I would just back the car up, turn on the running lights and connect a length of wire to the brown wire terminal on the vehicle and start touching it to the plug terminals on the trailer harness. See what lights up. This will get you started. I would also crawl under the tongue and see what kind of rats nest of wires is visible. If it was me I would remove any questionable wiring and attach new harness to the old near where the wiring emerges from the front of the trailer. That is assuming that your harness looks like most do after 30+ years and have various wire nuts, butt connectors, splices and test holes in the insulation.

After you figure out what lights up what you will be on the right track. The brake wire will most likely be larger than the others, I am not sure of the color but someone can probably chime in here.

I would also sand or grind a new spot for a ground attachment on the tongue and on the aluminum body itself, all of the lights return power through the sheet metal of the trailer. Check each light as well, look for broken, burned out bulbs, rusted sockets, etc. This is a good time to wire brush or replace sockets and insure that you have good grounds on each light. Good grounds are your friend. It makes trouble shooting go a lot easier.

I am sure that some of this you already know but I am trying to cover everything I can think of off the top of my head.

Here is a link to my wiring and some photos, it is a 59 but it might help.

reddirtshasta.blogspot.com/2009/08/trailer-hitch-and-wiring.html


Let me know if you have other questions, post pics if you can and good luck. Wiring can be frustrating.

Red Dirt