mcaf10
100 Post Member
Gizmo - 1961 Nomad
Posts: 127
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Post by mcaf10 on Jun 10, 2011 20:52:22 GMT -5
So I have have gotten the lower back and curbside skin off the framing is rotted in the back not so bad on the one side except for the bottom. Because I don't have a shelter to work on her, I have to tarp her up. So my questions is should I remove all the skin and work on the frame or repair the frame where I can with skin off, put the skin back on and move to the next section. I see this helping with the fact I don't have a solid shelter to work under.  Attachments:
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600 
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jun 10, 2011 22:19:50 GMT -5
Looks to me like you are goin to have to replace all of the bottom rails plus the whole back. If there's rot above the panel, that will mean the side too. I don't see any reason not to do it one piece at a time....may keep the whole thing together. The exception would be if you have to replace flooring. What does the back side look like?
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Jun 11, 2011 1:30:02 GMT -5
I've evolved a method: Begin with the bottom sill framing and wheel wells; include the entry. Once those are sound, move up to the edge framing. These are usually laminated (glued) pieces of plywood. They need to be strong to accept the edge trim screws. Gorilla glue will be your friend at this stage. Of course all rotten framing should be replaced, so as you move up with the edges, fix them as you go. The skin still on the trailer will help with the pattern.
After the wood framing is fixed, wiring can be added to or changed. You can add 12 volt wiring for a Fantastic Fan or a new heavy duty 110 wire into the breaker box.
Insulation is next, either foam, silver bubble wrap or fiberglass.
The skin then can be at least "hung" but doesn't need to be fully attached. (allows for a few adjustments)
Have fun with your fix! I admire someone who is willing to "fix it right".
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mcaf10
100 Post Member
Gizmo - 1961 Nomad
Posts: 127
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Post by mcaf10 on Jun 11, 2011 7:52:25 GMT -5
Looks to me like you are goin to have to replace all of the bottom rails plus the whole back. If there's rot above the panel, that will mean the side too. I don't see any reason not to do it one piece at a time....may keep the whole thing together. The exception would be if you have to replace flooring. What does the back side look like? 3/4 ths of the back is rot - the floor is still solid, even in the corners - happy about that. I will be putting a new layer of plywood on the floor anyway to cover the old tile. I don't want to pull up the tile due to asbestos. I would rather leave it undisturbed.  |
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jun 11, 2011 9:50:34 GMT -5
oh that looks so familiar. I'm really happy for you that the floor is okay. I agree with VK on the method.... good luck! You'll make it...I'm almost home.
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Jun 11, 2011 11:37:32 GMT -5
If you get to the top and the laminated edges are bad, you may have to "float" the roof. Tedious work. This a picture of a "floating" roof-you can see the support sticks and that the whole roof is 6 inches to one side. This works really well when the roof/front/back skin is crimped in one long run or if there's no way to remove the roof completely. Attachments:
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