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Post by universalexports on Jul 6, 2011 22:23:07 GMT -5
I am wanting to remodel my shower, but their seems to not be much here on that, anyone done a remodel with modern walls, etc. I will be relocating it as well, I have found the bottom "drip pans" or what ever they are called to collect and expel the water, but what about walls, the original shower in my camper just had a stainless wall on one side, and I guess the water just ran down the wood on the other. seems like a problem waiting to happen. would anything be wrong with using marlite panels (FRP) for walls and seal the corners with calk? what I have now   |
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Post by chyleen on Jul 6, 2011 23:23:45 GMT -5
The original had a curved shower curtain railing on the ceiling keeping the water from the wood around the toilet. When you lift the linoleum you'll find a drain in the floor, which is also metal. Not much room for a shower unless you're built like a broom. Good luck.
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Post by '59PinkDeluxe on Aug 22, 2011 20:56:32 GMT -5
Universal... that's what I have now. Have figured out the shower curtain part hanging from the ceiling and covering the wood (yet to be installed...will post pics when I get to that). Also, I am going to install a handheld for better control and flow. We'll see how that all goes. I'm pretty small so it will work for me and the kids.
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Post by kiley 1961 Deluxe on Oct 20, 2011 8:30:41 GMT -5
About an hour after we use our shower water appears on the floor right at the seam outside of the bathroom. I guess we need to caulk the pan seams... I do not see any cracks in the pan. Has anybody encountered that problem?
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Oct 22, 2011 14:21:15 GMT -5
Yeah, we decided that it was the constant "earthquake" of the trailer when we're on the road tends to cause the caulk on the one-piece pan to separate from the walls. We have re-caulked a couple times, and it works, but we're thinking for the long-term, we may put walls in. We'd rather keep the marine spar varnish on the wood walls, but don't want to chance leaking onto the sub-floor either.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 17, 2012 9:14:36 GMT -5
Wow, that shower looks like it came from one of those old Cold War bunkers... I have a '76 that I guess you could say I "remodeled"... I haven't replaced the hallway wall, door or the counter yet, but I painted the babyshi- I mean harvest gold tub and sink burgundy, and replaced the old Masonite with new Masonite from Lowes (white with the fake tile pattern). I reused the gold corner trim and pan edge trim, with new putty tape. Haven't got a good picture on this computer, sorry. Attachments:
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Post by lopo on Mar 22, 2012 15:07:39 GMT -5
Can we stretch this topic a bit to "has anyone actually put a shower in the little closet in the Compact?" I can't seem to let go of this idea, using the LP water heater, and with the city water line right there and a spot also for a fresh water tank if I wanted it).
The big stumbling block I see is the electrical box being in there, up by the ceiling.
I found a site that will make a custom shower pan (it would be very small), and then there's that tile-looking wallboard... Anyone?
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Post by blu26ovl on Mar 22, 2012 20:25:26 GMT -5
Lopo, I converted my closet and the space where I took the ice box out to make a wet bath. I rebuilt the whole trailer so I moved my power box to the bottom of the new closet that I built beside the old closet. That is where the power comes in anyway so it worked for me. I upgraded to 30 amp service so I installed a new box capable of 6 circuits. I made a fiberglass shower pan then used the tile wall boards for the walls and caulked all joints with white silicone. My shower valve is in the wall beside the kitchen and I have a 4 gallon Bosch water heater under the sink so all of my plumbing is in that one area for the shower and kitchen sink. The water heater is electric only. I installed a camper shower rail on the shower ceiling and use a shower curtain to protect the door. The bathroom is 22" x 38", not alot of room but it does work for us. I also installed a window just like the rear upper bunk window to help with ventilation and daytime light. I have a small LED light on the ceiling in the upper right corner. Attachments:
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Post by blu26ovl on Mar 22, 2012 20:35:57 GMT -5
In this photo you can see the corner soap and whatever holder I found at a building salvage store and installed in the bathroom. New closet is to the left of the bathroom with power box in the bottom now. My air conditioner sits on top of the new closet and slides out for use. Attachments:
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Post by lopo on Mar 22, 2012 20:38:45 GMT -5
Well, that looks just great to me. I don't have that much room, though, because I have a new Norcold icebox in the fridge spot, and I don't know what's involved in moving the electrical box. I assume just starting all over with it in the spot in the closet next to it. I would have a shower so tiny that I'd have to crowd into it, but I'm not that big so I could do it, I think.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 22, 2012 20:50:45 GMT -5
We alsodid a bathroom in our 59 Compact. The rounded shape makes for a few different issues, but we are very happy. We had the whole closet to work with (no side icebox on th old Compacts), and we'd already added a few inches t the height of the trailer, so even my tall husband can use it easily. We did a flushing porta potty instead of a toilet, and instead of a water heater and tank, we mounted a gas tankless heater on the wall bhind th porta potty. We tried to keep as much original feel as we could, so instead of the showe tiles - which look fantastic, by the way, blu26ovl - we dd three coats ofmarine spar varnish on the walls. Here's a link that shows the final product (and the other wonderful things that the change allowed us to do - 2-deep drawered cabinet, closet, and we moved theelectrical box to the same place as did blu26ovl. But you have to show finished pictures! www.howiseelife.com/blog/2011/06/20/trailer/ |
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 22, 2012 20:52:34 GMT -5
Sorry about the apparent misspellings, my "regular" computer is wonky right now, and I don't type slowly enough for this one.
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Post by lopo on Mar 22, 2012 22:04:50 GMT -5
Well, it's adorable!!  I think I'm seeing that a shower is not likely to happen with my, uh, lack of carpentry/plumbing/electrical skills. Maybe in my next one?  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2012 20:49:10 GMT -5
I would think that showering with the electric panel might be the most interesting part of the experience.....
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Mar 26, 2012 2:57:52 GMT -5
A ZAPPER!
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 26, 2012 10:31:33 GMT -5
It's great! I don't have to bring my curling iron along anymore!
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safetybruce
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Miss Alabama 1961
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Post by safetybruce on Mar 27, 2012 0:12:19 GMT -5
Once all the technical problems or installation, and waterproofing have been overcome...can someone PLEASE explain to me why in a close quartered shower stall, as soon as I turn on the hot water and face the shower head...that &^$*& shower curtain immediately sticks to my a**!?! My shower here at work is not really confined, but try as I might...that curtain chases my butt until it clings...sorry if that was more information than Members cared to know...
I have fiddled for a year learning some sites that seem to have "old" camper parts, and have seen a couple of clean fiberglass shower/tub/sink -in-1 inserts that appear to have come out of Airstreams or campers where the bathroom is on the side, not the curved rear sections...for about $75-100 cash and carry. The dude that had that 10' Aristocrat for sale on ebay, that just ended, rebuilds 10 footers and his "signature" tweak is he installs a bathroom in every one of them in the closet area...would love to get up close and personal with a couple of his conversions to see his technique(s). Obviously if you are putting a shower in your canned ham Compact, you will definitely need to relocate the power box, but if you are going to those lengths, I would think you would be moving the power box anyway to increase the power to 50 amp service as well as setting up a stand-alone 12-v system to run led lights a fan or 2 and even the Coleman 120v/12-v cooler off an independent 12-v system powered by a deep cycle marine battery trickle-charged with a small portable solar cell...all of which (except the battery) can be mounted outside the closet in the storage space in front of the wheel well under the curb-side bench seat...in for a penny, in for a pound...once you start putting in bathrooms where they don't originally exist.
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safetybruce
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Miss Alabama 1961
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Post by safetybruce on Mar 27, 2012 0:27:05 GMT -5
ooops, meant to type under the...street-side...bench seat for the power box...must have still been thinking too much about that shower curtain problem...
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Post by duttonhenry on May 17, 2012 21:10:09 GMT -5
usually that sticking problem is caused by the cooler air going to the warmer air and if you put a weight at the corner sections and some in the middle they should hold it down where it wont be attracted to something usually "a gravitational pull from a large body mass" as my wife fondly calls it, because we had the same problem in our basement shower.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on May 18, 2012 10:50:11 GMT -5
I just saw an ad for a magnetic, self-closing hanging screen "door" on TV, that you put in your sliding glass doors to allow the dogs to come and go but not the bugs. The magnets draw the edges of the screen to together when you let go of it. I wonder, a few magnets along the bottom of the shower curtain, with matching ones or a piece of steel on the underside of the tub...
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Post by universalexports on May 18, 2012 18:07:42 GMT -5
I saw that commercial as well, super cool if it actually works like they portrayed it to. that thing went back together perfectly.
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cowcharge
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I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
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Post by cowcharge on May 19, 2012 2:46:00 GMT -5
Did the clicking noise of them closing start to irritate you by the time the ad ended?
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Post by harrison429 on May 19, 2012 3:15:45 GMT -5
Did the clicking noise of them closing start to irritate you by the time the ad ended? Yes! |
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Post by kathleenc on Aug 17, 2012 19:43:25 GMT -5
When installing the shower pan, do you use the standard size shower drain? I'm just plumbing to outside to be later connected to grey water tank. The closet is such a small space and the standard drain looks huge compared to the tiny shower pan.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Aug 17, 2012 20:09:59 GMT -5
i think we used a 3" hole saw for the hole, covered with a standard plastic drain cover and a rubber one for over that when we're not using the shower. Maybe it's 2.5". Hmm, anyway, my hubby set up the drain pipes to go from the shower and sink into the gray water tank. It's one of the rolling ones that goes under the trailer and we dump at the end of the trip. It stores in the bathroom when we're on the road. Works great. There are a few really primitive places we boondock where we don't even need the tank. We are able to shower using just over a gallon of water, and use biodegradable soap sparingly, so it's not a problem for drainage.
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Post by kathleenc on Aug 17, 2012 20:43:13 GMT -5
that's my plan, too - rolling tank. I did finally find a smaller drain, I believe it's 2.5 inches instead of 4. I like your method of storing the tank in the bathroom so when I buy the tank, I'll make sure to check measurements. It can't be too big anyway because I have to be able to lift it into the trailer by myself!
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I think I'm seeing that a shower is not likely to happen with my, uh, lack of carpentry/plumbing/electrical skills. Maybe in my next one? 
