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Framing
May 20, 2012 9:24:33 GMT -5
Post by 303epps on May 20, 2012 9:24:33 GMT -5
I'm one of the new guys and I have purchased a 13' trotwood. This little beast was sitting in a neighbors backyard for 20 years. I have discoverd all my back wall studs all damaged beyond repair in both back corners. My question is how to make the curved frames. I have talked to some guys and they say to steam wood to make these curves my idea is to make a template then laminate plywood to make the curves.
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Framing
May 20, 2012 9:40:00 GMT -5
Post by 303epps on May 20, 2012 9:40:00 GMT -5
oh by the way I have used treated lumber to start replacing the floor area that was damaged. Any reason to not use it on the rest of my framing. I had a few 2x4s that I have ripped to make framing for my beast.
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Framing
May 20, 2012 9:56:38 GMT -5
Post by LittleVintageTrailer on May 20, 2012 9:56:38 GMT -5
You might check out www.cannedhamtrailers.com as Larry has some great restoration videos that cover things like how to rebuild the back wall studs, curves, etc.,
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Framing
May 20, 2012 9:57:17 GMT -5
Post by LittleVintageTrailer on May 20, 2012 9:57:17 GMT -5
Scroll down on that page and watch the restoring the Deville and restoring the Shasta series of videos.
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Framing
May 20, 2012 14:00:51 GMT -5
Post by cowcharge on May 20, 2012 14:00:51 GMT -5
If by treated you mean pressure-treated, I've heard not to use it, but can't remember if it's because of the weight or the poison copper compound they use, or some other reason (sorry, it was a while ago).
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Framing
May 21, 2012 1:37:42 GMT -5
Post by vikx on May 21, 2012 1:37:42 GMT -5
Today's pressure treated wood should not be against aluminum skins. It also tends to rot bolts if fresh. I "cure" mine for two years before using it, and not often....
If the trailer doesn't leak, the wood won't rot.
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Framing
May 21, 2012 6:37:43 GMT -5
Post by tylerbes on May 21, 2012 6:37:43 GMT -5
As for the curved beam question... that is exactly how I would do it. Laminating strips of plywood in a jig to form the proper bend. I would glue, clamp and nail the layers. Give a very wide stagger at the seams of each layer. 1/4" ply will bend just fine if its cut down to strips
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Framing
May 21, 2012 8:21:36 GMT -5
Post by LittleVintageTrailer on May 21, 2012 8:21:36 GMT -5
Might be a dumb question but can you buy UN-treated wood? If not, what if anything can you do to it besides cure it for two years to make sure it will be ok to install under aluminum? I'm almost to the stage where I need to go buy some so want to make sure I don't goof this part up.
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Framing
May 21, 2012 11:33:30 GMT -5
Post by cowcharge on May 21, 2012 11:33:30 GMT -5
As for the curved beam question... that is exactly how I would do it. Laminating strips of plywood in a jig to form the proper bend. I would glue, clamp and nail the layers. Give a very wide stagger at the seams of each layer. 1/4" ply will bend just fine if its cut down to strips Tyler, I got the impression he meant cutting out curved pieces and gluing them together like a stack of boomerangs, not bending them. Maybe I read it wrong... If I was going to make it in bent strips like a canoe, I'd use solid wood instead of plywood. So Vik, does the curing "wear off" the compound so that it doesn't corrode the aluminum any more? Where do you use it, around wheel wells and such? 303, I think most of the people here just rip their straight framing lumber out of regular untreated 2 x somethings with a table saw. If you really feel the need to treat it, I'd use paint or Thompson's or something. But like Vikx said, if it doesn't leak it won't rot.
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