We have removed the broken glass from the rear window of our 63 Airflyte. It was not the original glass (PO replaced) so I'm not sure that it's the right thickness. Using a digital caliper, we measured the glass thickness at 0.100 inch. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct thickness for that window?
We're also wondering, when mounting the window to the camper, whether the rubber backframe gasket goes right against the skin, or if butyl tape (or something else?) goes between the gasket & skin.
Angel, We have a '62 16SC that has the same back window. Unfortunately our window glass has been replaced by a PO with plexiglass so I can't answer your thickness question.
Regarding the gasket, I am assuming that this is the gasket you are talking about. The flat part of the gasket hooks over the edge of the metal frame that gets screwed to the trailer. The rounded part ends up being a compression seal for the window that swings open.
We are going to put a narrow piece of butyl tape also between the metal window frame and the trailer. This will seal the water out much better than with only a gasket. (I hope!)
The VTS also says this about the installation of this gasket: "Requires adhesive to apply. For adhesive, we recommend black or clear silicone RTV or 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. Both will work well but we've found silicone to be easier to work with. In general, silicone RTV makes an excellent adhesive for all our silicone rubber gaskets. Caution: do not allow excess adhesive to dry where you don't want it!"
We answered our own question about butyl tape on the backframe gasket. We found a bit of the old gasket we pulled off, and it had butyl on the back of it. Thanks for the replies; we're going to go ahead with 0.100 glass so hopefully it will work out.
Thought I would throw in a comment about glass. Our Astrodome needed the big loft window when we bought it. I towed it to the glass shop down the street so they could measure it. I asked about "safety glass" like a car has and it was very expensive. They recommended "tempered" instead. They act the same but tempered is the right thickness for what these campers and when cracked like a car window will break to small pieces and stay together. The single pane at home depot was about half the price and breaks into big dangerous shards, but the tempered was only $27 cut to size.
My thinking is these old beauties have no emergency exit, god forbid there is an emergency and we can't get to the door, but when we break the glass its not going to be big dangerous shards. Also if kids or anything else break it its easier to clean up.
The emergency exit part may not apply to your rear window as it opens and you would have to think thin!
Post by Hugh Currin on Oct 20, 2012 11:26:53 GMT -5
This seems a good thread to address my questions? We're about to reinstall our Hehr (bottom opening) windows. These use a butyl tape along the top but a gasket on sides and lower edge. I'm wondering about using a sealant, and where to apply it.
We have new gasket material from Vintage Trailer Supply as Redwings mentions above. As he says, VTS suggests a silicone sealant to install these gaskets. Are others applying this sealant between the window frame and gasket, or between gasket and trailer skin, or both? I question if the gasket itself will pull down against the skin well enough for a seal, particularly across a pittsburgh seam.
Post by Gone Kayaking on Oct 20, 2012 22:05:26 GMT -5
Yes, but use the silicone that VTS recommends nothing else. This is about the only time that you will use it. The silicone is used between the gasket and the frame of the window, not to the trailer. You still use butyl for the frame against the trailer. THen there are screws as well that hold it all on, lots and lots of them!
1956 Shasta 1500
Can't wait to go campin'