Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 19, 2012 17:07:53 GMT -5
As some may be aware I am rebuilding the door on my 56 shasta. It has the L handle and handle latch on the inside. Part of the reason for replacing is the jerry-rigged nature of the attachment. I kept the L handle, but ordered a new door latch (inside). Here's my question. It has 6 holes. 1 lines up with one of the holes on the L Handle. Planning to use a bold on that one from out to inside and add a cap nut to finish. But for the other 5 on the cam lock as well as the L handle--- what do I use? # 10 stainless 3/4 inch screws ...won't go all the way through but will make is secure? Here's a pic of the latch. www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Canned_Ham_Door_Latch_p/vts-215.htm
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Jul 20, 2012 0:34:50 GMT -5
Most of the time, these latches are not screwed "together" but into the wood framing of the door. The only connection is the square bar from the T handle to the hole of the inside latch. That's the way all of mine have been done.
If the holes in your door are enlarged, try Gorilla glue and toothpicks to fill and which gives the screws a good bite. I would stick with #8 after this procedure; the heads are much smaller...
Interesting Note: On both the 57 1500s, the pretty curved handle has been straightened to accommodate the screen door. (factory maybe?)
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Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 20, 2012 10:59:56 GMT -5
Thanks VK I'll use #8's. I completely rebuilt the door so there are no old holes to fuss with, except on the skin which I'll be putting butyl on to seal before the hardware goes in. It's funny the one on the L handle that one of the holes lines up, so figured it couldn't hurt to go all the way through there. I didn't think about the curved handle interfering with the screen door. On my old screen door a groove had been put in the wood (over time) from the door latch rubbing against it, so I just made it a larger opening....but I didn't even think to check if it was too "thick" for the door. Fingers crossed.
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Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 21, 2012 9:32:50 GMT -5
So I checked the curved latch and I believe you are correct about it interfering with the door. Went through a couple of minutes of head scratching about how to bend the door latch. Then a light bulb went off. When the outer door is closed I can have the sliding panel open, and when the sliding door is closed but the outer door is open, it won't matter. Problem solved.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Jul 22, 2012 1:19:16 GMT -5
Here's a pix, the groove in the door is visible... Attachments:
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Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 22, 2012 9:43:33 GMT -5
exactly! I just gut my new door panel hole larger to avoid.
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