Removing skin screws???

[tigertom22]

So I have realized I have an awful leak around front window. I know the best way to fix is to take the skin off. But the screws look original and are rusty/stripped. How can i get these off?

And am I right to assume that the front skin under the window would come off in one piece?

Thanks for any advice!

[soup]

WELCOME to VSTF!

1st off, is there damage to the paneling on the inside? Are you going to replace paneling if damaged?

Taking the skins off the outside is NOT ALWAYS the best way to go about it. If you are having to replace any paneling on the inside then just do repairs from the inside. If you are not replacing any paneling inside, then outside skins would be easier and faster.

Just fixing leak around window would only involve removing/resealing/reinstalling window, no skins, no paneling. To reseal window you would need seal tape and RV lap sealer Non Sag type for vertical surfaces. Both should be bought at your local RV center. DO NOT USE RTV or SILICONE of any type!!

To remove old rusty fasteners; If you can't get a hex head socket or phillips on them to bite, you would have to take a cutting wheel and cut a slot in the head of the screw, then you could use a common screwdriver not a Phillips.

I know people on here love removing exterior skins but that is not needed when you are replacing paneling on the inside anyway.

Good Luck and we would like to see some pics!
Soup

[tigertom22]

soup - you have made my day!

Yes - the panelling is rotten and def needs to be replaced. So I think i will remove dinette and replace the front paneling and studs. Are the studs 2x4s? I thought the consensus was you are always better to go from outside in but I am much more comfortable with your plan.

I found some nice birch panelling at lowes that I think will look nice.

I did have a nice surprise this weekend. the PO had put new tile down like 20 years ago but only taped it on the seams. So when i removed it the original tile looks pretty good. The only spot where it seems lose is again in the front under thew window. But if I can replace the panelling it hopefully will hold until we can do a full renovation in a year or two.

here's what she looks like now:

shastavintagebertha.blogspot.com

Thanks for your advice!

[Gone Kayaking]

Soup is correct that it's certainly true that you can work from inside out. It depends on what you find. But taking the lower skin off or peeling it up is really not a big deal...and much easier imho to do the work. especially if yours is the older canned ham style vs the more boxy later year model. If your leaks are from the windows, Soup is also right, all you need to do is take the windows out, re butyl, etc.... However, you might also find that the drip rails are the source of the leaks and need to be removed, their framing repaired and then re butyled and rescrewed. Once you've removed the window screws and the drip rails, the skin just about falls off (or at least mine did).

[vikx]

I agree with Gone Kayaking. It is easier to do frame repairs with the skin lifted. Our Deluxe was totally gutted inside and I still had to lift the front and rear skins to get access to all the rot...

All the work the PO went to gutting the paneling was for naught, plus installing new wall panels was more difficult because supports had to be added at the edges.

Window leaks are often caused by edge trim putty failure. Do a close inspection of the edges and roof before making a decision on working from the inside.

Also, on the window, if you use RV putty tape and screw into good wood, you shouldn't need any other sealant. The putty should ooze at every screw and the window flange be as tight as possible to the skin. Sealants work best around roof protrusions and should only used on the body as a last resort. Eventually, the sealant will have to be removed and proper repairs made.

[soup]

As recommended by most all RV centers;
Seal tape AND lap sealer on all aluminum skinned units,
tape only on all fiberglass skinned units. (Go ahead and call around and check if ya don't believe it) Besides the factory only used tape and it leaked!

But hey you can do what you want, it's your unit.

What would be the benefit of removing skin if you are going to have the paneling off in the inside anyway? Why make double the work? Also removal of skins only invites the possibilities of further damage to skins. (ie; skins leaned up against garage wall, kids basketball comes sailing into the skins by accident....acci-DENT, get it? LOL)

Just sayin! IMHO and everybody has one! I just hate doing extra work if I don't have to. Cheap and easy is the way to go at my place!
Soup

[schweetcruisers]

The best way to work on these is in the reverse order they were built. Here's the order they were assembled

Metal ladder frame
Wood floor joist
Plywood floor/tile
Walls stood up with interior paneling in place
Cabinets installed
Roof paneling installed then roof joist
Aluminum skin
Roof
Windows
Drip rails/caps

It may not be the easiest but it makes the trailer stronger to do correctly. The front,back and ceiling paneling should lap over the walls. The only way to achieve this is to work from the outside in.

[Deleted]

Schweet I agree, once you start pulling these trailers apart the order of construction becomes apparent. Right now I’m framing…it’s a bit of work but I’m glad I brought it down to the frame. Now I’m putting it back together in that exact order. I guess, at least I’ll know the trailer will be strong and essentially new when I’m done...but also old.

[flyingham]

"What would be the benefit of removing skin if you are going to have the paneling off in the inside anyway?"

I would say, because its easier than it sounds. That's how they were assembled. Skin went on last. Not panelling.

Schweet is correct in his description.

It really depends on what you want out of it in the end. Interior panel replacement is possible, but you will certainly be leaving behind rotten wood. You will have to cut wall panelling at floor level and ceiling level to remove it, because of the way it is sandwiched together.

All of these campers leaked. All of them, but at least they are fairly easy to work on.

Peeling skin back will give you a real good idea of how far you need to go with repairs. As will most of them, most of the wall framing seems to escape severe rot, until you get near the windows. That is where you will find the rot.

Handling the side skins on a 'flyte is a two person job. You can remove the lowers without a lot of drama. I used a small pair of Knipex pliers (german channel locks) to grab rusty screw heads for removal. I would grab them before attempting with a cordless screw gun, and "crack" them loose, then use the cordless to back them out. (mine were very rusty and had a tendency to strip out the head with any torque applied to them)

There are some good photos in the restoration section to see what you need to see before you dive into it. Good luck, and feel free to ask questions!

[vikx]

Modern RV companies are not repair Gods... more goop means getting the customer out the door that much sooner. Yes, today's RVs leak. A lot. Poor build practices and assembly line pressure.

I worked for said companies. Anything to make the customer happy, and CHEAP.

Vintage trailers are much better off without sealants, except around roof protrusions. They look better and, if puttied properly, sealants are not needed....not to mention lowering the resale value.

Dicor self leveling lap sealant is very good on the roof. It sticks to itself and can be touched up if needed. It also can be removed. (annoying work) Dicor products do not seal old putty or failed seams; they are meant for new or re-installations.

I agree with the above. So much better to open it up and see what's really there. Pulling the inside panels does not give access to lower skirt boards and framing. Plus the ceiling panels really add sheer strength. These trailers were designed the way they were for a reason....