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Post by k10lan on Nov 4, 2012 18:49:17 GMT -5
Has anyone used Furring strips for their interior framing? Seems to be much cheaper than some of the other options I am finding.
Related question, is there any reason to not use these for interior framing?
Thanks!
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61 Shasta
100 Post Member
Chuck's Waggin
Posts: 194
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Post by 61 Shasta on Nov 4, 2012 20:56:28 GMT -5
I'm not sure I understand the question? When I re-paneled the interior of my 61, I simply went over the old paneling once I had removed the damaged stuff. I used a combination of contact cement and underlayment adhesive and it worked fine?
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Post by k10lan on Nov 5, 2012 9:23:21 GMT -5
We are having to replace some of the framing itself due to rot (parts of it are literally falling off when we step in the trailer; dont worry, we have our T supports up). So we are putting up all new paneling and looking for a reasonable option for the frame.
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johnv
New Member
Posts: 27
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Post by johnv on Nov 5, 2012 20:28:29 GMT -5
Has anyone used Furring strips for their interior framing? Seems to be much cheaper than some of the other options I am finding. Related question, is there any reason to not use these for interior framing? Thanks! We had various 1x2's lying around that were sold as furring strips, and we used them to replace rotten framing. You can get some really crap furring strips, depending on where you shop, but some of them are pretty nice. I've built furniture out of furring strips.
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61 Shasta
100 Post Member
Chuck's Waggin
Posts: 194
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Post by 61 Shasta on Nov 5, 2012 22:09:28 GMT -5
OK, now I get it. My interpretation of your post was that you were going to fir out your walls with furring strips! You bet, furring strips will work fine for the interior framing. If you have the capabilities and tools to do it, an even more cost effective mode is to purchase 1x12 pine board and rip them to your desired width. That is what I used on mine. That way I could make them whatever width I needed for a specific application. In addition, you will be probably get a better grade of material to work with. Knots are a problem and you can generally work around them when ripping from a wider board. You will also not have to deal with the issue of warped boards. If you purchase a bunch of 1/2 furring strips and don't use them for awhile, they tend to warp where as with a pine 1/12 you only cut them as you need them. Good luck
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boandsusan
2K Post Member
Christmas parade 2012
Posts: 2,000
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Post by boandsusan on Nov 14, 2012 9:46:57 GMT -5
We don`t use furring strips. As 61 Shasta stated, they always warp if they are laying around so we figured we didn`t want them warping in the campers walls. Ripping 1x12`s allows you to beef up certain areas. Where the table was to be attached to the front wall, we ripped it 4 inches wide. Where the 2x4 bed supports were to be attached across the rear wall, we ripped a 6 inch piece. We ripped 3 inch wide pieces for areas where the kitchen counter was going to be installed. Have fun!
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Post by cowcharge on Nov 25, 2012 11:14:20 GMT -5
I ripped mine too, mostly with a Skil saw...
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Nov 26, 2012 1:34:20 GMT -5
Nothing wrong with a Skil saw! I've done a mile of ripping with my old warrior...
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boandsusan
2K Post Member
Christmas parade 2012
Posts: 2,000
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Post by boandsusan on Nov 26, 2012 7:44:27 GMT -5
Skil saw works fine for ripping. If we have a lot to do, we just build a jig.
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Post by cowcharge on Nov 26, 2012 12:21:23 GMT -5
It's a little tricky outdoors on saw horses, hehe.
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61 Shasta
100 Post Member
Chuck's Waggin
Posts: 194
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Post by 61 Shasta on Nov 27, 2012 23:11:48 GMT -5
Nice part of it is, once they are covered up, who cares?
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