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Post by supermerle on Dec 27, 2012 20:47:57 GMT -5
In the process of getting the running and tail lights working, but can't get them to light up? I have the original wires running to the back and have replaced all of the sockets that hold the bulbs and solider the wires together. I hooked up a battery charger to check the current flow but nothing is lighting up? I have neg hooked to the frame and the pos hooked to wires running to lights but I get nothing coming on? Anybody have any suggestion on how I check the system to see what's wrong? The wires look good? I'm thinking its in the ground? Anyway if anybody has a suggestion I'm listening. Ay diagrams out there? I have 1966 shasta 1500. Thanks in advance!
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Post by universalexports on Dec 27, 2012 21:13:09 GMT -5
are the lights themselves grounded via the screw into the aluminum like it was from the factory?
I dont know if a battery charger has enough amps to get them to come on, I have never done that.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2012 22:18:57 GMT -5
Haven't used a charger for testing either, seems a splice to a 12-V battery may be a better choice.
If they still don't work it is a safe bet there is a bad ground connection, make sure the body and skin is grounded cleanly to the frame.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Dec 28, 2012 1:59:33 GMT -5
Yes, be sure to ground the skin to the frame and run a ground jumper from the light base to the frame.
Older chargers will energize the lights; newer ones may have a protection feature that doesn't allow power out unless connected to a battery...
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soup
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Post by soup on Dec 28, 2012 8:10:49 GMT -5
I use a battery charger from the 70's to do a check on lights and it works. When finished I hook to tow rig and test all functions. Most times things don't light it is bad ground or no ground at all. All light assemblies screws have to make good contact with skin (bare metal and clean new screws). Also get a $3.00 continuity test light from walmart to test ground on individual light assemblies. Light assemblies must make good electrical contact to skin via screws. Body of camper needs ground strap to frame. Then your harness plug will need the white wire connected from plug to trailer frame. Plug on tow rig needs it's white wire connected to metal on tow rig too. Also be advised, fresh grease on hitch ball helps connect ground between trailer and tow rig. Good Luck! Soup
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Post by supermerle on Dec 28, 2012 12:20:35 GMT -5
First thanks everybody! My battery charger is a new HF one? I'm going to dig deep today and figure it out or run new wires. I installed new sockets into the old taillight bases (which is screwed into the skin of the trailer)and cleaned the socket holders good, but no juice at the bulbs? I've used the test light but no luck there either. The biggest problem is I assumed the wiring is good and solidered all the wires together and put heat shrink over the joints;now, I'll have to take all that apart. Looking at it it seems it should be working so I'm going to check again before I tear everything apart. Here's a few Pictures Attachments:
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Post by supermerle on Dec 28, 2012 12:22:25 GMT -5
another picture Attachments:
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soup
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Post by soup on Dec 28, 2012 14:24:51 GMT -5
1st thing you need to do is replace those nasty rusted screws on the backing plate. IS that how it looks at present??!! If so, You have no ground at bulb. Screw, backing plate, skin all need to be clean, free of rust, bare metal to metal contact. If you have to, spin the whole backing plate assembly about a 1/4" and use new self tapping screws making new holes for better ground. Be sure to sand surface of backing plate exposing bare metal where screws go into the backing plate. Next, are those dual filament lights, running and brake? We need to make a continuity check down the chassis harness by using that test lamp. You will apply 12 volt to ground (frame in front) then pick a wire (in front) and apply positive. Go in back and attach clamp of test light on same wire you chose (In the back now) and touch the point of the light to ground. Did it light?
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Post by supermerle on Dec 28, 2012 18:02:43 GMT -5
Well I titled my own solution to my trailer running lights woaaaaaasssss! Went back and clean every ground and screw location and guess what everything is bright and shinning. I should have known ground ground ground it's always the ground side! I've messed with tractors and cars and its always the ground that causes the problems!!!
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Dec 29, 2012 1:21:57 GMT -5
Great that you solved it!
WHEN IN DOUBT, GROUND IT AGAIN and again and again..... LOL
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Post by supermerle on Dec 29, 2012 8:02:32 GMT -5
Quick question? I have a yellow and black wire sticking out of the ceiling over the dinette in front of the overhead cabinets? What is this for? 12 volt? It's a 66 1500 shasta.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2012 8:24:12 GMT -5
That is quite likely for a 12-volt overhead light, usually they were square-shaped. That should run to a separate spot from your running/tail lights in the 12-v fuse block.
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Post by supermerle on Dec 29, 2012 12:22:31 GMT -5
This had the original pigtail that was round with four wires?
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Dec 30, 2012 2:21:52 GMT -5
Normally, the single overhead 12 volt lights worked with the vehicle running lights. If the car lights are on, you have power to that light. Of course, re-wiring allows more options...
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Post by supermerle on Dec 31, 2012 11:19:48 GMT -5
Thought I'd show everybody I wasn't fibbing. Here's a picture of the lights. Attachments:
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Jan 1, 2013 2:14:53 GMT -5
Lookin' Shiny!!!!
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djnrf
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Post by djnrf on Jan 1, 2013 14:02:03 GMT -5
Always, I use not only a 12V power supoly (not a charger), also, a test light, and to check the wires by themselves separately, I use a VOM. (wolt ohm meter). Set the VOM to the mid-level resistance scale, then using an alligator clip hook one (either) lead to one wire (any of the hook ups on the plug), and then attach another wire long enough to reach the rear lights to the other meter lead, and attach that to each of the wires, one at a time while watching the meter. If the wire has continuity (shows a dead short on the meter - ie: meter goes full scale) the wire is good from front to rear. Only one of the wires to the lights should show this. The others should not move the meter at all. IF any two of the wires that run from the front to rear show a strong, or full meter reading you have wires that are shorted together. You make this same test for each of the hookup wires on your plug. Remember that all of these wires except for the ground wire are to carry voltage to something.
If all wires show a proper continuity, the only problem then is the ground. You can also meter this with the VOM. Just make a connection with your VOM to the ground wire on your plug on the trailer, and then check with the other meter lead to the frame, and also the skin on the trailer. Both must show continuity.
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