hauswife
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Post by hauswife on Apr 27, 2013 23:39:59 GMT -5
So,my little oddball trailer (still haven't figured out what year or what model she is..) is pretty much useful, for now. We will be attempting to use it here and there during the fixing process.. I hope. I'm impatient Well the back skin is coming off, there is definitely some water damage.
We plan on starting there, since it's the worst..
Is it a terrible idea to fix the wood and framing underneath, and keep the same old skin on it until we can get farther into the process?
So I see it's important to use stainless screws, is there anything else I need to worry about?
I'm watching all mobiltecs videos (you're already a lifesaver and we haven't even started working.. At least we have an idea what were getting into!) But I wanna make sure I'm not missing anything important.
Any wisdom is appreciated!!
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Apr 28, 2013 0:36:07 GMT -5
Anything you can get to, fix it. The only rule is to not cut corners when doing the repairs. If you can't get a screw where it belongs, wait until you lift the skins. Also, make the repairs "removable" just in case you have to dismantle later.
Have fun!
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Post by '59PinkDeluxe on Apr 28, 2013 9:45:17 GMT -5
Also, I got this advice here on the forum which worked well. Bump your screws up a size as sometimes the previous (original) size will just spin in the existing hole. That, along with new putty tape, should do you some good.
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Apr 28, 2013 10:25:41 GMT -5
We use wood screws on the framing. SS screws should always be used on the exterior. Only use untreated wood for your framing. Chemicals in treated wood react and eat away at aluminum. Most of all HAVE FUN!
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hauswife
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Post by hauswife on Apr 28, 2013 13:25:15 GMT -5
Untreated wood.. Good to know!! I wondered why people wouldn't use it, since it would last longer. We pretty much want to replace all the framing bit by bit, but it seems silly to put on new skin piece by piece.
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Apr 28, 2013 14:05:07 GMT -5
The issue you are going to have with putting the old skin back on the corner is that it is but jointed instead of curving around the side. If you have to wait to replace the skin, make sure that you have a good piece of corner rail (not sure what it's called) with butyl tape.
I would if you can though pull or lift the skins to do the repairs. I think Ross has some good pics of this on his restore thread.
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 28, 2013 17:20:00 GMT -5
Im not a painter and have never used stainless steel screws on anything that has to be painted. But from what I'm told, paint won't stick to stainless steel. You better check that out but that is what I was told. So I use them if Im not painting the J Rail. Other than that I have only used them on the stainless steel quilted back splashes inside.
The videos show you what to do. I think the backs were replaced and videod in both the Deville and the Shasta series. Remember that every time I do another trailer I use techniques that I learned since the last one. So the latest videos are the most up to date in knowlege.
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hauswife
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Post by hauswife on Apr 28, 2013 20:58:07 GMT -5
Mobiltec, I'm basically trying to do what you do, only camping in between fixes. I was wondering about painting Them..
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Apr 28, 2013 21:01:13 GMT -5
I haven't had any problem with mine and they are stainless steel.
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 28, 2013 23:06:05 GMT -5
I haven't had any problem with mine and they are stainless steel. Well there ya go. Must have been one of those nasty rumors...
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Apr 29, 2013 0:48:49 GMT -5
I use zinc plated screws if they will be painted. There's something about the "oily" look of stainless... Plus they are harder to drive, very soft metal. Don't let the bit slip. Grrr.
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hauswife
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Post by hauswife on May 1, 2013 1:16:24 GMT -5
Im not a painter and have never used stainless steel screws on anything that has to be painted. But from what I'm told, paint won't stick to stainless steel. You better check that out but that is what I was told. So I use them if Im not painting the J Rail. Other than that I have only used them on the stainless steel quilted back splashes inside. The videos show you what to do. I think the backs were replaced and videod in both the Deville and the Shasta series. Remember that every time I do another trailer I use techniques that I learned since the last one. So the latest videos are the most up to date in knowlege. Mobiltec - the seam cover down on the bottom isn't the same j rail as the top, what exactly is it? It's just a bent moulding it seems.. Mine are thrashed.. Just trying to figure out how to get it all back together for now.. We're going to replace the wood but leave the old skin for now.. I noticed on the top half, the street side is j rail, and the curb side is similar but has a c to it- is that for awnings or something? I'd post a pic but the forum won't let me!
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on May 1, 2013 1:21:21 GMT -5
Im not a painter and have never used stainless steel screws on anything that has to be painted. But from what I'm told, paint won't stick to stainless steel. You better check that out but that is what I was told. So I use them if Im not painting the J Rail. Other than that I have only used them on the stainless steel quilted back splashes inside. The videos show you what to do. I think the backs were replaced and videod in both the Deville and the Shasta series. Remember that every time I do another trailer I use techniques that I learned since the last one. So the latest videos are the most up to date in knowlege. Mobiltec - the seam cover down on the bottom isn't the same j rail as the top, what exactly is it? It's just a bent moulding it seems.. Mine are thrashed.. Just trying to figure out how to get it all back together for now.. We're going to replace the wood but leave the old skin for now.. I noticed on the top half, the street side is j rail, and the curb side is similar but has a c to it- is that for awnings or something? I'd post a pic but the forum won't let me! Yep.. That is called Cap Rail and it leaks no matter what you do with it. Between those cap rails and the side solid dinette windows they might as well have installed funnels in the top of the trailer to collect rain water. That's why I replaced the front and rear skin on mine. So I could fold the ends over the sides a half inch and cover with J Rail. It's in the videos. I don't just restore a trailer. I make it better if I can. Those cap rails have not ever worked on anything for very long. A fold over seam with J rail lasts much longer but still needs resealing at least once every 10 to 15 years in my opinion. By the way I am impressed that you noticed all that. Very few people even think about those corner pieces. Everone just seems to pull them off and put them back on again.
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hauswife
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Post by hauswife on May 1, 2013 11:10:43 GMT -5
As for the bottom back half, did you use j rail too? That's the one that seems like it's just a bent moulding, and I want to replace it now, even though Im just sticking the old skin back on for the time being.. I'm hoping I can avoid new skin until I can so it all at once..
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hauswife
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Post by hauswife on May 1, 2013 11:54:37 GMT -5
Ohh ok you did j rail the whole way, since you could bend the skin over.. So I guess until I can replace the skin I'll keep the regular rail, an when I can redo the skins ill do what you did
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on May 2, 2013 0:31:14 GMT -5
Ohh ok you did j rail the whole way, since you could bend the skin over.. So I guess until I can replace the skin I'll keep the regular rail, an when I can redo the skins ill do what you did That's the right thing to do. Don't skimp on the putty tape when you put the old corner cap rails back on. I don't know if people notice what I did to the 57. New metal front and rear and I did a 4 inch break because it was before Hemet Valley was doing 6 inch breaks. And I have the crease turned in instead of out like the originals. And then there's the Jrail all the way around. Now it might last another 20 years or so. Depends on how it's taken care of.
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on May 3, 2013 19:55:38 GMT -5
I did the same as mobiltec and got new skins to fold the end over.
If you do just fix things up for now....make sure when replacing the corner that you put in a good dose of butyl tape, and plan on either keeping it under cover when the rains come or fixing it after. This year since you are in California, I'm guessing you aren't going to have a rain problem (which is good in some ways and horrible in most ways that really matter) til October at the earliest.
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hauswife
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Post by hauswife on May 5, 2013 17:53:27 GMT -5
For now, we just replaced the lower birch so we wouldn't sleep next to mold, and straightened out the rails and stuck em back on. Plenty of putty tape!!
Except for the vent cover we lost, she's good enough for a few camping trips this summer before we really take her apart.. Fortunately I have awesome Oc weather and by then the garage should be clear!
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