Building electrical system from scratch

[chevydrivor]

I  bought a 60's trailer that had very minimal wiring in it and what was there was very scary. I have been searching for months now and cannot seem to find the info I need. I am looking to have the 12v system that runs the tail lights, interior lights, exterior lights. Then a 110v system that runs a mini fridge, the interior and exterior lights that are powered by 12v source and 110v if possible, power outlets. I found this (http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/12V_Fuse_Box_p/vts-146.htm) fuse box that looks like it will work for my 12v system, but I am very lost in the 110v system.  Any help would be awesome and if anyone has a wiring diagram that would be a huge help. Thank you in advance.

[vikx]

There are 3 different electrical systems in our trailers: Tow wiring, 110 and 12 volt inside. They interact but are separate systems.

1. The tow wiring operates the tail and clearance lights, trailer brakes (if electrical) and charges the battery.

2. 110 system is pretty straight forward but does require electrical knowledge to install. (Inlet to Breaker box, breakers to circuits, etc)

3. 12 volt inside receives power from the tow charge wire and battery. A Ground from the frame is connected to all interior fixtures via a ground bracket.

It would probably be best if you planned your own 110 system. Whether to go with 15 or a 30 amp inlet, how many circuits/amperage and where you want the fixtures. There a lot of examples here.

[chevydrivor]

Everything you are saying makes sense. I am having a hard time finding what parts i need and a good place to buy them

[vikx]

RV shop:

7 way cord/plug, 20 amp self resetting breaker. Some sell 14 gauge automotive wire by the foot.

Auto Parts store: 12 volt fuse block (or panel), wire, fuses and cigar plugs.

Home Depot:

Square D breaker box, breakers, ground wire, boxes and other 110 wiring parts.

Sorry about the lack of photos...

[valewf]

I know that the typical method for wiring the 12 volt system is to use the frame of the trailer for ground. But I remember helping my uncle chase electrical shorts in his old trailer when I was a kid. We spent a lot of time on our backs under that old thing.
Does anyone use a 2 wire solution instead of single wire and ground to the frame? I know that it would double the amount of wire that you use but wouldn't it eliminate the short problem?

Cheers.

[vikx]

Shorts are generally hot wires touching metal... All the metal in a trailer is grounded. So, if a hot wire shorts, it shorts to ground.

Two wires is probably better than using the skin for ground but not always necessary. Those of us that use LED lights always run the extra ground wire. They will not prevent shorts.

[txoil]

I'm attempting to decide what is needed for our Deluxe, and perhaps someone here can offer some guidance...
My thoughts so far are to install two 100AH AGM batteries under the curbside bench, and to install this dist. panel...http://www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html, wich will power the ac and the dc as well as recharge the batteries. I have a Honda 2k quiet generator for recharging batteries. Now then, if I am going to go boondocking, what do I need to do to run my AC appliances from the 12V DC system..must I also add an inverter?? Is there some method to power the ac stuff from the batteries without shore power?

[universalexports]

you will need an inverter to power the 120 volt stuff, and those 120 appliances will such that battery dry pretty quick so I would watch my amperage use.

[vikx]

Universal is correct. 110 appliances run off the batteries via an inverter will quickly drain them. AGM batteries don't like that. Anything with a motor or heating element is best used on shore power.

[txoil]

Ok gentlemen, I appreciate the info. Would it be better perhaps--certainly cheaper---to just forget the 12VDC side and wire everything into an 120VAC breaker box, since we will taking a Honda 2K generator anyway? Maybe just use surface mount battery power LED lighting for night time and everything else powered from the generator ( which is propane fueled from the twin tanks) when off the grid?

[vikx]

Sorry I missed this..

I always add the 12 volt system and wire accordingly. You don't have to buy the battery but it's there if you ever decide to connect...

Hondas are great (and quiet!) generators. Your plan will work.

[61 Shasta]

Robert, I wish I had seen this thread before answering your question on the message board. I agree with vikx. At some point you will probably look back and wish you had installed the 12 volt converter system. The unit you describe is certainly a high end unit and would do everything you want to do except power your 110 volt appliances and you can rest assured that your batteries would always be at optimum charge. Now, since you have already purchased your 110volt panel and breakers, you still have an alternative. When I did my Shasta compact wiring, I looked around and found an old motorhome that was being parted out and just purchased the converter. I then installed it in conjunction with my 110volt panel. The wiring diagram I sent you is still valid except you would have to add the converter in the circuitry and your 12 volt lighting would be fed from the converter. All of my lighting is 12 volt and with my battery in place it doesn't matter whether I am plugged in or not, I have lighting. Give this some thought and if you want to proceed, I will assist you where I can.
Chuck

[61 Shasta]

Chevydrivor,
I may be able to help you out. First of all, are you going to install a 12 volt battery in your trailer? This makes a big difference in how you approach answering your question. We will then go from how you answer that question.