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Post by kevschofield on Feb 8, 2011 15:57:06 GMT -5
Low budget, no special effects, unpaid actor..
I flub a couple of the words, but here's a quick demonstration of using the Kreg Jr. to make some pocket holes and install a piece of framing.
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jessie
100 Post Member
Abbey, our 1969 Compact
Posts: 130
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Post by jessie on Feb 8, 2011 23:47:56 GMT -5
Rad! Thanks for the demo!
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Post by clutchburner on Feb 9, 2011 8:23:57 GMT -5
i've been wanting to pick up one of those,i think you nudged me along to get one.thanks for taking the time to do the video.
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Post by kevschofield on Feb 9, 2011 10:00:09 GMT -5
Before getting mine I was really scratching my head as to how I was going to strengthen the stapled framing, and add new wood without removing the skin and doing a complete rebuild. I looked into using a bunch of metal brackets and really short screws but once I saw this setup I knew it would do the trick. Since I've completely gutted mine and need to build new dinette benches, kitchen and closets/cabinets this tool will be invaluable. I've got a pretty humble shop setup without a lot of fancy tools.. I'm using a table saw I got at a yard sale for $25, the Kreg jig and a new miter saw I got the day after Christmas at Lowes on sale for $79 (came with the stand too..good deal)  I got the rest of the front starboard side done and almost all the front port side as well before I came in last night.. I finally feel like I'm making some progress~  |
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jessie
100 Post Member
Abbey, our 1969 Compact
Posts: 130
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Post by jessie on Feb 9, 2011 12:13:12 GMT -5
Looks REAL good!
Kev, have you used the jig right on there? Or just with new pieces? I thought I read somewhere that you can actually clamp it right onto the wood that's up and drill the holes to reinforce them. I have one section of my curbside wall that is in pretty good shape, but I would love for it not to be attached with staples everywhere if I am going to pocket-hole the rest. Can I feasibly do it while the wood is up, or should i take it down, drill, then put it back up?
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Post by kevschofield on Feb 9, 2011 14:08:50 GMT -5
Well... yes and no~ Since I have all my windows out, I have access to the framing around each opening so I can clamp the jig in place.. However... the jig has little protrusions that line you up on the end of a piece of wood..  So, even if you have access to the wood you want to use pocket holes on.. you shouldn't clamp down as that will misalign the hole, and might damage those little protrusions.  So what I do is remove the 2 big staples and either let the wood pop inward that 1/8th of an inch so I can drill it in place..   Or I remove all the staples, take it out and drill it on the bench like it was a new piece of wood.. I'm not going to do every single joint on the trailer, but I'll replace rotted parts, strengthen around the windows and add some wood where cabinets will attach.. |
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jessie
100 Post Member
Abbey, our 1969 Compact
Posts: 130
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Post by jessie on Feb 9, 2011 17:31:29 GMT -5
I am a totally visual learner, so to see your pictures and video really help me so much! Thank you!!
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Post by shastadaisy on Feb 9, 2011 18:22:41 GMT -5
this just answered the question rattling around in my head about how i was going to attach new wood to the exsisting framework.
luckily my local Lowes carries the R3 in stock. woohoo.
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600 
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Feb 9, 2011 18:28:44 GMT -5
This is really helpful too if I have to do any of this (there is one suspicious spot that I'm debating opening up)
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Post by Nashville Ken on Feb 12, 2011 9:14:21 GMT -5
Im like clutchburner; I have been wondering if those work now I'll have to get one. Thanks for the great info kev
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Post by dawgpound on Feb 14, 2011 13:30:56 GMT -5
Great video, Kev. If it weren't for the Kreg screws, it would have been twice as hard to make the necessary framing repairs on our 2 Shastas.
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Post by Gremlinguy on Feb 20, 2011 21:12:56 GMT -5
Kev.........Thanks so much for making the video.
I decided to go buy one after watching it. And holy cow, this thing is awesome.
I just started my restoration on my 66 Compact. And thanks to the Kreg my framing is done and bad ass!
I build hot rods for a living and I haven't been this excited about a tool for a long time.
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Post by Bow_Tied on Feb 20, 2011 22:56:45 GMT -5
Awesome post of the month award, right here.
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Mar 6, 2011 10:51:34 GMT -5
Brian should make this a sticky! I just used the Kreg for the first time yesterday to put the roof framing around the vent back up on my trailer. I was using Oak and couldn't figure out how to pre drill the pieces that the pocket screw was going into plus turned out I had coarse thread screws so ended up with a split here and there, but it's all still pretty solid. This thing is great!
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Post by daffneyshasta on Jul 4, 2011 22:28:07 GMT -5
Awesome post and video - thank you very much! It's nice to know how the tool works before you get it home and have to figure it out, or worse, read the instructions (boring!). This was so much more fun!
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Post by Hugh Currin on Aug 12, 2011 10:03:14 GMT -5
Jessie asked if you can use the Kreg on existing framing. I have a Kreg Jig Jr. On mine the gray guides on the sides come off or can just be turned upside down. That allows the jig to sit on a flat surface. It can then be clamped to existing framing to drill pockets. Even better, there is a hole in the jig so it can be screwed to the framing. This hole is under the round gray cap used for clamping. The Kreg screws for 3/4" work well to hold the jig to 3/4" framing. Screwing the jig in place allows use where you can't get a clamp on from the other side. For 3/4" framing just align the front of the jig to the edge of the board. I've reinforced most of our trailers framing this way. Do be careful about removing old nails and staples, they can easily ruin a Kreg drill.
Hope this helps.
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cpylot
50 Post Member
Posts: 58
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Post by cpylot on Nov 22, 2011 7:23:17 GMT -5
Its all been said on this post already, but... THIS TOOL IS GREAT!!! It just saved my butt on our SOB truck camper that we use for horse camping. I opened up what I thought was a small repair of an old leak and it turned out to be major damage with an active leak. After 4 days of intensive demo and rebuild, I am a HUGE Kreg Jr fan. Wife loves it also because now we can go camping with her horses for Thanksgiving, would never have finished as quickly without the jig.
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Post by youngfd on Nov 22, 2011 11:51:09 GMT -5
Thanks for taking the time to share this. This is what this forum is all about. I will add one of those to my Christmas list.
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Post by westend1530 on Jun 11, 2012 8:45:23 GMT -5
Does anyone know what the difference is between the Kreg Jig and Kreg Jr. Jig besides a $100?
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Post by cowcharge on Jun 11, 2012 9:35:18 GMT -5
My Kreg, which I thought was the junior and cost about $24 IIRC, only has one hole, and no grey parts at all, it's only about 3/4" wide. So it's easy to fit in just about anywhere. And if you're using 3/4" lumber, you just align the end of the Kreg with the end of the wood, no worries about being too far back from the edge. What I did with loose framing was twist the wood 90 degrees toward me, in place on its loose staples, to move the top face to the front, clamp the Kreg on the top that is now facing me, drill holes at both ends, rotate the wood back to where it was, squeeze a little glue in the gap, and drive the screws in. Worked like a charm. Attachments:
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