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Post by shastadogs on Oct 24, 2009 1:41:45 GMT -5
So I am planning on rebuilding the gaucho-style benches in the back of my '69 compact Shasta (one on the driver's, other on passenger's with dinette table in the middle). And well it occurred to me that maybe I could fit a compact in-window air conditioner into the baggage door area: specifically a Frigidaire FAA055P7A. This model's depth in a rather slender 15 1/2" and only 12 1/2" in height. In short, I was intending on housing the entire air conditioner inside the trailer but building an enclosure that would involve a portion of the gaucho bench, the rear wall, the curb side wall, and the baggage door. In essence, I would be making a relatively "sealed" box that has the front of the unit (controls, air cond vents) at foot level facing the driver's side wall of the camper and easily within reach. When in use all I would need to do is prop open the baggage door and then turn her on. The "box" (two walls, floor, top of bench and two sides built within the frame of the gaucho benches with a plywood) should be sealed enough to allow the air conditioner to still run pretty efficiently...right? Does anyone foresee possible issue/complications with this idea? Specifically with airflow, does anyone have any serious doubts that the air conditioner would be able to function in a small compartment like this with access to the outside air through a ~ 10"x16" hole as opposed to simply being in a window? Thanx everyone for entertaining my potentially crazy and worthless idea - it's just that I live in Iowa and do most of my camping in the Midwest and the humidity can keep you up ALL night. Makes for a difficult hike the next day. Cheers Rich ps - I would never put an air conditioner in a visible spot on the exterior of my baby, so thanx but no thanx on any suggestions regarding that.  Attachments:
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Post by Shutzee on Oct 24, 2009 9:20:01 GMT -5
Rich,
Somewhere I saw a photo of an air conditioner under the benches. I will keep looking for it for you.
Shutzeegirl
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Post by Red Dirt on Oct 24, 2009 10:38:53 GMT -5
I think airflow would be a problem, but this could be solved with the addition of a small fan or two to help circulate air around the sides of the unit. The main problem that I would worry about is condensation. Window units normally just drip moisture onto the ground. this might be solved with a drip pan similar to those under water heaters that have a drain you could plumb outside the trailer.
What I have looked into are the portable units. they have drain lines that you can run outside. They tend to be more expensive, but might require less fab work. I have thought about using a small one in the wardrobe and connecting it to my existing wall furnace vent. I would like to get something going before next summer.
We definitely need detailed pics of whatever setup you use.
Red Dirt
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Oct 24, 2009 11:00:21 GMT -5
There is a guy on the Yahoo Shasta group that installed AC unit in the baggage compartment. There are photos in the photo section. His trailer is a '60 Airflyte, with a gold and white paint scheme, complete with a purple stripe and flashy chrome wheels, you can't miss it. I just looked and his album is called 1960 Airflyte by George.
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Post by franksshasta on Oct 24, 2009 11:46:57 GMT -5
I wonder if he is a Vikings fan?
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Post by joeandtam on Oct 24, 2009 15:52:51 GMT -5
One of my biggest concerns when we bought our camper was the comfort factor. I told Joe that we needed an ac unit. We bought a portable unit with a hose to drain the moisture that we place in the sink drain. The hose to vent the unit runs through the door under the bed. Joe made a board that fits into the cargo door opening with an opening to seat the end of the hose. To be honest we have not even used that unit. We have camped for 2 summers here in MN and have been cold in the mornings. Just an idea! Tammy
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Post by Red Dirt on Oct 24, 2009 20:29:11 GMT -5
Tammy,
What model did you buy? I am interested in pics of your set up if you have any.
thanks
Red Dirt
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Post by joeandtam on Oct 25, 2009 9:23:49 GMT -5
The AC unit is an Amcor brand bought at Home Depot for around $300. Attachments:
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Post by joeandtam on Oct 25, 2009 9:28:41 GMT -5
Joe cut a board to fit the opening to seal the cargo door and placed a screen in the opening he cut to seat the air vent. Attachments:
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Post by joeandtam on Oct 25, 2009 9:31:48 GMT -5
Here is a picture of the actual unit. I can't remember the BTU size as the manual is in the camper. ?2500. Thermostatically controlled. Hope this helps. Tammy Attachments:
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Post by Red Dirt on Oct 25, 2009 10:24:30 GMT -5
Yeah, thanks. Good job on the setup. One of these days you'll be glad you have it. Definitely going to have to set something up down here in OK. Summer really likes to hit us. Of course, it will hit 65 today so I can't complain.
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Post by blu26ovl on Oct 25, 2009 19:00:45 GMT -5
Hi Rich,
I have a friend that is redoing an early 70's fiberglass camper. He installed an A/C in the bottom of the closet which is even with the top of the wheel well and then made a new floor for the closet. He bought a vent to mount on the outside of the camper for the hot air to blow out. He closed in the area between the A/C and the outside vent to duct the hot air out. Which by you opening the cargo door it would do the same thing. There was some open area around the A/C where it pulls air in from the sides to blow out over the condenser. He installed 2 round vents 3-4" in diameter in the floor so the unit could pull fresh air up to blow over the condenser. Before he closed the area and ducted the hot air out it was pulling the hot air back in and just recirculating it back over the condenser which made it ineffective. Some of the fiberglass campers like Casita have the A/C mounted almost floor level in the front right corner of the camper facing back and have one vent in the side to pull in fresh air and one in the front to blow out the hot air. He has not been camping yet but this summer while working in the camper he would turn on the A/C and it kept it very comfortable here in N.C. with some 95-100 temp days. Hope info helps.
Brent
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Post by Atomic Addiction on Oct 25, 2009 23:07:38 GMT -5
I have seen some teardrop owners install a AC unit called Petcool. It is a small unit that uses a loop system. Not sure how well they would work for something the size of a Shasta. That and they are around 500 bucks. MAKE SURE you have some kind of drainage system. Our PO didn't and it destroyed the back of our trailer... Brian Attachments:
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Post by sparky1 on Oct 27, 2009 8:28:14 GMT -5
I also have a 2000 Casita Camper 13 ft---it has a automatic controlled AC in the right front bottom corner under the closet, the outside louvered vent has a nice cover you remove to let it get air---seams to me---the Shasta's could be done in a similar way, using the back corner, cargo hatch.
sparky1.
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Post by 62astro on Apr 26, 2010 13:13:31 GMT -5
joek, do you have a link for the one in the Shasta Yahoo group? I looked and can't find it, but maybe I'm not in the right Yahoo group. Thanks!
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Apr 26, 2010 21:37:47 GMT -5
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Post by 62astro on Apr 26, 2010 21:50:07 GMT -5
joek, thanks for the link! Just had to sign in to view it. Adam
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Apr 27, 2010 0:17:30 GMT -5
Glad it worked. There is some real nice work that's gone into that trailer.
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Post by flyingham on Apr 27, 2010 20:00:35 GMT -5
I am also doing an under bunk a/c (window mount under). It will fit under my rear bed and I am mounting it on drawer slides.
This will allow it to slide out of the outside storage door and drip on the ground. I am going to make a canvas barrier that will velcro to the outside of the a/c unit. This takes car of condensation and bugs, and will allow the movement of the a/c unit.
On the inside, I will duct it with flex pipe as neat as possible, to lose as little room as possible, where I need it. I will do my best to conceal the outlet vents. The air will naturally want to return to the unit with an access panel opened on the bottom of the rear sleeper. Should work just fine.
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Post by 62astro on Apr 29, 2010 13:07:44 GMT -5
Have you found the air conditioner you're going to use? From the measurements I have on the bench and the air conditioners I have found, I'll have to raise the seating area of the couch or modify the housing on the air conditioner. I like the idea of the slide out configuration. I thought about putting it off to one side, putting a hole in the outside cargo door (concealed with a louver cover) and also one on the back side. Dividing that area of the compartment off and insulating it with 1" foam board and putting a small fan behind the air conditioner to push the exhaust out. Also would need a small tray w/ drain for condensation. I also figured just removing one of the inset panels from the bench and replacing the portion that was still needed. So the front of the air conditioner would be visible if you're looking around the corner of the sink or closet (depending on which side I put it on, probably the street side). Are you going to use a 5,000 BTU or larger a/c? My local hardware store/HVAC dealer didn't think a 5,000 would be big enough, thought 8,000 would be handle it though. Of course once you go to 8,000 the smaller dimensions are definitely gone. If you're going to pipe the air in, how are you going to adjust it or just set it and forget it!?
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Apr 29, 2010 13:52:18 GMT -5
I know i read somewhere, (i thought here) somebody mounted an AC on drawer slides inside the baggage door, it would only be visible when slid out during use and sealed around the door with an expandable canvas boot. no venting , needed.
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Post by flyingham on May 29, 2010 21:33:10 GMT -5
So here it is... Attachments:
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Post by flyingham on May 29, 2010 21:34:02 GMT -5
...Your standard $100.00 a/c unit under the bunk, on drawer slides. Attachments:
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Post by flyingham on May 29, 2010 21:34:49 GMT -5
Slides right out to the a/c unit window stop. Will drip on the ground when in use... Attachments:
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Post by flyingham on May 29, 2010 21:36:21 GMT -5
Here you can see the modification done the the bench framing, I will have to increase the thickness of the plywood on the seating surface to make up for the missing framework. I will be building a "manifold" for the a/c vents. It will consist of a "box" with flex tubing coming off of it. I will be able to install 2 vents where I want them and simply crack open the under bench cabinet door for air return. Attachments:
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jun 16, 2010 15:07:20 GMT -5
I am SO gonna do mine this way! thanks flyingham!
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safetybruce
2K Post Member
Miss Alabama 1961
Posts: 2,547
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Post by safetybruce on Jun 16, 2010 21:36:33 GMT -5
I have been thinking about an a/c unit for my Compact, and I think everyone has discussed many of the concerns I have had, moisture dripping from the unit being the biggest one for me with the humidity what it is in Southern Mississippi. I am now considering shopping around and seeing if there is a good used roof mount unit from a camper being parted out. Does anyone have any experience with trying to instal a used roof mounted a/c where there was not one before?
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Post by Atomic Addiction on Jun 17, 2010 0:11:52 GMT -5
I have been thinking about an a/c unit for my Compact, and I think everyone has discussed many of the concerns I have had, moisture dripping from the unit being the biggest one for me with the humidity what it is in Southern Mississippi. I am now considering shopping around and seeing if there is a good used roof mount unit from a camper being parted out. Does anyone have any experience with trying to instal a used roof mounted a/c where there was not one before? Roof AC units can be used but there is a few things to think about... 1. They are HEAVY. Even in a trailer like an Airstream they require additional supporting. If you were to rebuild a trailer you could certainly add additional framing. 2. They require a larger 30 amp or higher service. 50 amp is preferred. You will have have to add the new box or add a whole other box and run power to the hole. 3. They need to drain. You have to run tubing down to the ground to drain the run off from the unit. 4. The portion that sicks into the trailer will decrease head room in that area. They do hang down quite a bit. 5. They are expensive! Just things to look into... Brian |
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Post by 62astro on Jun 17, 2010 15:05:04 GMT -5
I put one in the baggage compartment and boxed it in with 1" foam board. Cut my (this is OK right  ) baggage door and mounted louvers over it. I used an 8,000 btu unit and after using it, I'm glad I didn't use a 5,000. Dimensions were the same for the ones I looked at, but cost about $80 more. The thing I found is that the air conditioner is on the floor so: 1. it works great if you're 6" tall and 2. terrible if you're 6' tall. To remedy the situation, a fan is needed to blow the air off the floor. It kept it at 75 - 80 degrees on a sunny high 80's low 90's day in Nebraska a couple of weeks ago. Humidity wasn't too bad that day though. Also once the bed is pulled out, the fan has to be readjusted. This picture shows the plug-in I purchased at the local RV joint. Hole in the door for air flow has not been cut. Attachments:
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Post by 62astro on Jun 17, 2010 15:09:14 GMT -5
I had to raise the seat up to get everything to clear, standing a 2x4 on edge was the easiest. The area between the 2x4's is where the cold air comes out so that space remains open. I left the next space over open too so I could see the control settings. The unit I purchased came with a remote, which is handy. Attachments:
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) baggage door and mounted louvers over it. I used an 8,000 btu unit and after using it, I'm glad I didn't use a 5,000. Dimensions were the same for the ones I looked at, but cost about $80 more. The thing I found is that the air conditioner is on the floor so: 1. it works great if you're 6" tall and 2. terrible if you're 6' tall. To remedy the situation, a fan is needed to blow the air off the floor. It kept it at 75 - 80 degrees on a sunny high 80's low 90's day in Nebraska a couple of weeks ago. Humidity wasn't too bad that day though. Also once the bed is pulled out, the fan has to be readjusted. This picture shows the plug-in I purchased at the local RV joint. Hole in the door for air flow has not been cut.
