Back Window

[shastalova]

Hello,

Could someone please help me by posting pics of your back windows? I am trying to figure out what is missing from ours and what material to use for sealing btw the window and the frame. Thank you.

[dawgpound]

On the left side under POST REPLY, underneath SUBJECT you will see ATTACHMENT. If you have uploaded your picture to your Desktop or if it is in an album in your computer, Click on the BROWSE bar to find your pictures URL or copy and paste the URL....http:/ ? and that should do it.

Hope this helps,
Ross

[shastalova]

I am sorry, maybe my post wasn't clear. I need to see pics of others back windows. I don't know what they should look like. I had mine replaced and it doesn't look right. I need a guide, especialy helpful would be 1500's.

[dawgpound]

Is your back window a solid window or jalousie style?

I removed the solid windows from both of our Shasta's and replaced them with jalousies for better ventilation.

[clayton]

An original, not restored, back window of our 59 Deluxe.

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[dawgpound]

I just found your previous post and picture. WOW, what a mess. There is no easy way to repair a broken rear window.

This is based on the fact that your rear window is that of the 1970 style. The frames are soldered around the piece of glass....in some cases it is Plexiglas.

The proper way to fix the rear window, is to remove the entire window frame. "UN" solder the frame at 2 points and remove the old window glazing channel. Replace with New Glazing Channel and New Glass, resolder the corners of the frame. Fresh butyl tape and reattach the frame.

[shastalova]

Thanks so much for your thoughts. Is the butyl tape what is missing from the frame or is the butyl tape inside? Is the compound where the solder should be?

There is a large gap btw the glass and the frame (filled in with the compound) . I cant figure out what is wrong or missing. The window was just replaced and this is how they fixed it. I am so confused.

[dawgpound]

Does your rear window look like this? If you need a close up, let me know and I will get another picture. What year is your Shasta?

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[shastalova]

Yes! That is exactly what it looks like. Is a 68.

Ok, so what is the white area in between the window and the frame that I see in the pic, is it metal, caulk, or rubber stripping?

[dawgpound]

It is the aluminum frame. This is a rear window that I removed from our 1970 Starflyte. As far as I know it does not leak. The inside measurements are 15" X 47 3/4" and the outside measurements are 16 3/4" X 49 1/2". If it will work for you, it is yours, just pay the shipping costs.

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[dawgpound]

Here is a picture of the soldered inside corners. In order to replace the window glass, these must be "UN" soldered.

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[shastalova]

Alright. Now I understand what is missing. I am going to try one thing, if it doesn't work I will definately take it. Thanks so much for your time. I would be lost without all the helpful advice on this site. Thanks again, Ill let you know.

[dawgpound]

Just checking to see if you got your rear window sealed correctly.

Ross

[harrison429]

Still questions on the rear window but different trailer...

I feared leaks from my rear window based on the interior damage and the huge amounts of caulk the po used to seal the tinted plexi the po had installed. Now that it's out and I've cleaned everything up I started looking for the seal/plastic glazing that was previously used (and which didn't actually meet in the corners) but I can't find it. After reading this post I'm now under the impression that the replacement was rigged since the corners still have their soldering and the replacement plexi is much smaller than the actual frame would allow.

Here is a pic of what gasket/plastic glazing they used and how it was laid out on the frame and plexi (with tons of caulk). The red line indicates the edge of the plexi.

My question is, can't I reuse their concept of just using a smaller piece of glass held between the frame & gasket with appropriate sealant or if not then what is the proper procedure for taking apart the frame and what supplies do I use to properly reglass the window?

I'll follow this with another closeup pic of the gasket/plastic glazing so you can see its shape.

Thanks

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[harrison429]

close up of shape of plastic glazing/gasket used on plexi

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[dawgpound]

What year is your trailer? I have never replaced the U channel in a rear SOLID window, but shouldn't be that difficult to do. I will look at the 2 solid rear windows that I have in the shop and see what the best way to make the repairs.

Ross

[lopo]

Not sure if this is the best place to ask this or start a new thread...I saw some wet wood below the back fixed window of my 72 Compact. Not bad, but we just had a rain and there it is. The window is original. I've pulled the window, and I'm puzzled about where the water came in because, now that I've pulled the window, I think I understand why the rear windows were put in minus the drip edge that the other windows have along the top: The roof actually rolls around, right down over the top edge of the aluminum above the window. So, where the heck does the water get in? I can see if the window has been tampered with, a/c units installed and such, but I'm not seeing where it's getting in and the top edge of the window isn't wet - just the corner to about 4" in along the bottom frame.

[dawgpound]

Sounds like the U Channel is brittle and has shrunk, thus causing a few gaps. I bet there are gaps in the corners. If this is the case, I use the LEXEL Sealant and run a fine bead along the sides and bottom of the frame & U Channel.... especially in the corners.

The best way to see where the water is getting through the frame, is to use a garden hose and run water from the outside. Watch from the inside of the window frame and watch where it comes in. Dry the area and seal it. Water test the window again until no more water passes through.

Does this make sense?

Ross

[lopo]

Thanks, Ross! If I just knew for sure what the U channel is, I'd feel more confident. We had a rain yesterday and I didn't see any inside but I want to seal it. I was in Lowe's today, trying to remember what the name of Ross's sealant is, and saw nothing close. I'll order LEXEL online.

Oh, and this is the window that I bought the VTS drip cap for, but it's going to look weird to put it up when there was never one there. But I remembered that you said that if I do drill new holes for it to put that sealant in the holes before I attach it with butyl tape and screws. Is that right?

[dawgpound]

The U Channel is the rubber gasket the fits over the edge of the glass and then into the aluminum frame of the window. Here is a quick tutorial of repairing 1970 Hehr windows. About 1/2 way down, there are pictures of the U Channel used and how they are used. This might help understand how the panes of glass are sealed.

Most Ace Hardware stores and Do It Best hardware stores carry LEXEL Sealant, as well as Benjamin Moore Paint stores. You might even try your local commercial paint stores, ie; DuPont, Porter Paints, etc.

LEXEL Sealant is sold in either small hand squeeze tubes or regular caulk tubes. The caulk tubes are better money spent and you can keep the sealant longer, once opened.

[lopo]

I understand now what the U channel is (even though it looks nothing like a U or even a channel to me. And yes, it's shrunk away from the corners. I had taken the window to our local window and door store to see if they have it because I didn't know what to call it, but of course they don't. I'll find the LEXEL and seal those corners! Thanks again, Ross!