With the key inserted turn it a 1/4 turn so the key is aligned perpendicular to the handle, in other words so the flat side of the key faces the same direction as the pin hole. Then used a small punch to tap the pin in, not out. Then the tumbler comes right out. It will probably take a little force, the pin has a little keeper in the middle that keeps it locked in place. The hole is just to access the pin.
For reassembly, with the tumbler out and the key flat, the pin goes all the way in the tumbler, insert the tumbler and turn the key with a light force and it pushes the pin firmly in place.
You can get frustrated like I did, and knock the entire tumbler out with a punch shearing the little brass pin. Then pay a locksmith $3 for a new pin and the experience to know how to do it the easy way.
And alas, I did not take a single picture. I know, I know, I usually take pics of everything. You could do me a favor and take some if possible. if not that's okay too. I may just take mine apart sometime.
Okay, so now that I actually read your post again, maybe you don't care about the tumbler. The handle just comes out after the two screws in the inside handle are removed as well as the two in the edge of the door above and below the latch. The ones in the edge go way in, like two inches. Then just jiggle it, pulling the end away from the edge out first and it pulls right out.
If that is all you need just disregard my previous post.
Post by franksshasta on Oct 28, 2009 17:40:07 GMT -5
Is that how the interior or exterior handle comes off the faceplate? Here is a pic of the pin that I am referring to that holds the exterior handle in place. I am pointing to the pin. It looks like a friction fit of some kind. I could be wrong.
Sorry, I still didn't understand until you posted the pic. I believe the pin is just hammered into place. The problem is that I wouldn't trust the strength of the handle or the housing if you try to tap it out. Applying heat might help, but that metal has a fairly low melting point so it might be tricky applying enough heat to remove the pin but not so much that it misshapes the metal. Do you have a mom and pop locksmith in town? One with a guy that might remember these locks? Might be a good idea to have a pro look at it.
As one experiencing the frustration of the L-66 being out of production, it seems like someone would take the initiative to start reproducing them. I wish I knew a little more about casting parts....
If we had a new one, disassembled it and duplicated it (even with a slightly better metal)
Mine is not broken (yet) but it is missing the key. Tumbler replacement is going to be challenging. I suppose that since I do not have a key, I will have to carefully drill out the tumbler from the front, and remove it in small pieces. Then install a new tumbler. Or I call a locksmith, and have a key cut. BTW, I found the correct key blanks for .56 each (you have to buy 10). Here:
Post by 61shastacompact on Feb 17, 2010 21:52:07 GMT -5
A descent locksmith should be able to cut you a key from the lock for a reasonable fee. I once had a locksmith make a key for the hatch of my car and he just used a blank and a file. It worked smooth as butter when he was done.
Most locksmiths have a minimum charge of 100.00. Understandably. I am finding tumblers for $15.00. But look no further, I spent too much $ on a new L66 yesterday ;D. Mainly for cosmetic reasons. But gained a key with it. I look at the Shasta as an investment that will do better that the damn stock market!