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Post by elliott on Nov 14, 2009 11:36:15 GMT -5
The vent in my '61 16SC is missing the interior parts and crank, can't be closed, and is leaking a little. I'll be replacing it very soon. Vintage Trailer Supply has this flat lid fan vent: www.vintagetrailersupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VTS-414My question is, can anyone tell me the color of the original interior trim on your Shasta vent? VTS has off white or grey. Thanks, elliott |
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Post by 61shastacompact on Nov 14, 2009 23:12:45 GMT -5
My question is, can anyone tell me the color of the original interior trim on your Shasta vent? VTS has off white or grey. The vent on my 61 Compact is trimmed inside the same as the windows, with aluminum. See the attached pic. Please keep in mind that this picture was taken on Day 1 before any work or cleaning hence the cobwebs and spiders! ;D Jim Attachments:
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Post by Atomic Addiction on Nov 15, 2009 1:31:45 GMT -5
Yep, They were trimmed in aluminum.
That is the one problem with the Fantastic Fans. They look so out of place in a restored trailer. I wish they made one that didn't look so cheap and plastic-y. One in a aluminum finish, even if it was brushed aluminum would look so much better.
Brian
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Post by elliott on Dec 5, 2009 11:36:19 GMT -5
You're right about the material, Brian. I may see if I can fab a trim piece in aluminum. But first the install... So I got the fan which includes a closed cell foam gasket (slightly damaged, see pic) and a ton of screws. instructions call for screwing down the flange with gasket below, then sealing the edge and screw heads with silicone. I didn't expect the gasket, or the silicone. I have plenty of putty tape and had planned to lay it down, then screw down the flange, then apply more putty tape over the screws. If any sealant was required, i considered polyurethane sealant, but thought silicone was a no-no. (by the way, anybody have a source for white poly sealant?) Should I follow the instructions and use the gasket & silicone, or use the putty tape method sans gasket? Thanks. Attachments:
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Dec 6, 2009 2:22:02 GMT -5
I put mine down with butyl putty tape under it. No sealing of the screws. just the self seal of the screws going through the putty tape. Sealing the screws after is probably a good idea, though I have had no leaks and more than a few very heavy rains. I will probably seal the screw holes with gutter seal, it can't hurt.
As to a white poly sealer, there are lots of them. Most commonly trailer folks seem to use Vulkem. Vulkem has a little bit of texture to it. Sikaflex is another good polyurethane adhesive sealant that comes in many colors and tools very smooths.
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Post by elliott on Dec 6, 2009 10:30:26 GMT -5
Thanks, Joe. Putty tape it is.
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Post by elliott on Feb 20, 2010 19:47:28 GMT -5
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Post by 61shastacompact on Feb 20, 2010 21:34:51 GMT -5
Looks real good Elliott. Good to see the boss was keeping a close eye on your work! ;D
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Post by elliott on Feb 20, 2010 22:23:03 GMT -5
rosie says "are you done with my shasta yet?"
some notes for the next guy:
there was some original sealant underneath, the black stuff in the pics, most of it came off stuck to the vent top flange. this stuff was doing no good at sealing water, but most of it came off easily.
a later repair used gray silicone, also ineffective at water sealing, but very hard to remove.
best method was soaking with mineral spirits on a rag, then razor blade. repeat. use #1 or #0 steel wool to remove the final residue. polish & wipe with soft cloth + mineral spirits.
the fantastic vent fan fit perfectly in the original Hehr opening, and the screw holes weren't too close to the original holes. i put down two layers of putty tape from VTS, one on the flange and one on the camper. note the continuous run on the front/top with tape joints only on the sides and bottom. i used extra pieces to seal in at the skin seam, we'll see how it works.
oh, i missed a screw, see pics. tomorrow...
i chased the wire by drilling a 5/16" hole at a slight angle toward the front driver cabinet, where the power service is, careful to stay clear of old and new screw holes. a little wax helps things move. future upgrades will include a converter so i can actually use the fan!
yours,
elliott
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Post by uncleatom on Mar 15, 2010 19:34:52 GMT -5
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Post by cowcharge on Nov 8, 2010 21:08:25 GMT -5
Wow, that old vent looked like the cargo hatch on the Edmund Fitzgerald.
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Post by waywardho on Nov 9, 2010 23:38:23 GMT -5
Wow, that old vent looked like the cargo hatch on the Edmund Fitzgerald. Your talking about after the wreck I presume? Had a good chuckle over your last comment! |
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Post by kathleenc on Jun 20, 2012 17:51:07 GMT -5
Probably a dumb question - but do you predrill new holes in the roof aluminum before installing? Or put tape down and just screw all the way through?
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Post by LittleVintageTrailer on Jun 20, 2012 22:02:14 GMT -5
We just bought a regular vent from VTS. I too noticed it came with the white interior trim. I'm hoping we can utilize the aluminum interior trim from the old vent assembly instead as I agree the white would stick out like a sore thumb.
Thank you for sharing the pictures! You did a great job and looks like it went in pretty easily.
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Post by cowcharge on Jun 21, 2012 10:57:16 GMT -5
Don't know if it will help or not, but before I installed my new fanless vent, I put down a layer of aluminum tape under the putty tape, and carried it all the way down the sides of the hole to the ceiling, and wrapped it around the bottom of the frame before I put the new ceiling panel on. Hopefully if any water ever gets under the seal, it will run down inside the hole and drip on the floor instead of going into the ceiling.
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See my rebuild pics at: 
