Jim, I had the same problem. The wheel wells were rusty but not completely through. I cut the two sides (semi circles) out of galvanized sheet metal and a strip for the top out of the same. I did not remove the old wheel well material but just used pan head machine screws and nuts to fasten the new material to the old. Caulked with some polyurethane caulk and then used spray undercoat to finish. Probably not as good as replacing but I didn't have the equipmet to make the pittsburg joints and it looks pretty good. Good luck.
I'm not sure if you could actually completely replace them due to the way they were originally installed. Mine were sandwiched in between the floor and the frame. I hate to imagine trying to get them out. Patching may be the only way on this one. They had about a 1" lip all the way around the bottom to make a "flange"
Since my initial response I have had to completely replace the streetside wheel well due to a mishap with the wheel. I took off the wheel and hub and unfastened the axle to gain some space. Pulled out the old damaged wheel well and used it to make a half circle template frame out of 2x4's and plywood sides. When the template was completed it was the same shape as the wheel well. I then cut the 2 sides from galvanized sheet metal using the old sides as a template. the top piece is of the same material cut to the approximate length plus 6 inches or so and about 2 inches wider than the original wheel well. I cut out v's from both sides of the top and punch holes in the tabs that were created by cutting the v's. The sides were then attached to the template frame with a couple screws - just enough to hold them in place. Laid the top on the frame to determine how much extra length I had and then split the over length between both ends and bent the ends so they would create a lip to fasten to the underside of the floor. Folded the tabs down as I went from one end to the other and drilled and fastened 4 or 5 tabs through the sides into the plywood to hold the shape. The remaing tabs were then folded and drilled but not fastened. Once all the tabs and hoes were drilled, the top and sides were removed from the frame and assemble with stainess steel pop rivets. To mount the new wheel well I inserted it into the old space from the underside of the trailer. Fastened the front and back to the floor using the folded tabs and fastened the outside into the existing s'studs' that I found in the wall. I built a simple frame on the inside of the cabined to fasten the inside side to for extra stability. So far it is working well. By the way, this was on a 62 16SC.
Post by diamondrelics on Mar 10, 2012 11:16:52 GMT -5
My son ( he's a fabricator in a street rod shop) just got done making me a new set of wheel wells for Coralee. He use a little thicker metal. I've got $50 into the metal and they look awesome. Will post picks when I get the chance. He said their just like the ones he makes when they tub a car...