Post by Gone Kayaking on Sept 4, 2011 1:07:35 GMT -5
Hugh I'm working on a 1956 1500. Your website was great to read. It almost (and I do mean almost cause I'm not gonna do it) wishing I'd taken mine all the way apart. You've got a great workspace. I have the same puzzler on how to make those dang dinette windows work.
I did decide to have the front and back skins re fabricated so that I could get a 3/4" return on the edges. and then use drip rail or j rail to cover so that it matches the top rail. I think the way they were built with the L flashing was rot waiting to happen. I talked to the guy at Starlite Campground in Colorado who also has restored a few of these earlier Shastas. He did the same thing.
Would be happy to compare notes more if you like. Send me a pm and we can exchange phone numbers.
1956 Shasta 1500
Can't wait to go campin'
Post by Hugh Currin on May 10, 2012 19:47:52 GMT -5
We did a little work last fall which I just put up on our website. Late enough that it's warming up and time to start working again.
Gone Kayaking: It is an adventure. Sometimes I wish I'd not taken it down to the frame, but it'll be nice when finished. I do understand the problems with the front and back seams. I'll likely stay with the original, keep the rear skin but will have to replace the lower front skin. I have to keep reminding myself this is a renovation, not a redesign. And we can store her inside so she'll last longer than we will. Thanks for the encouragement.
Bretso: Watch for a "shinny" shasta at Lake of the Woods, or Hyatt, or Four Mile, or a good many other wonderful places. We're lucky to live here.
hotrodprimer: Thanks for the kind words.
philandrenee: Thanks. I'm kinda looking forward to the "shiny" old skin. I might change my mind when I see it complete, but it feels like a renovation with the old skin and a new trailer if new skin was applied. I can't wait to see it finished either.
Post by boandsusan on May 10, 2012 21:43:27 GMT -5
I just finished reading your restore blog. Enjoyed it thoroughly. I was a bit disappointed that the kitchen counter pictures didn`t show up for me. Can`t wait to see the final pictures. You guys are doing a great job!
Post by Hugh Currin on Aug 4, 2012 10:51:10 GMT -5
Bo and Susan: Thanks for the note. The kitchen pictures are showing up for me, are you still having trouble with them?
We made some progress spring 2012 but not as much as desired. I've added a page for spring 2012 showing progress. We're hard at work now so should have a lot to show for August. The goal is to have her usable sometime in September.
Post by Hugh Currin on Sept 3, 2012 22:53:01 GMT -5
boandsusan: Thanks for the note. After August it's starting to feel closer than last month.
Gone Kayaking: Thanks. I read through the thread on dinette windows. Not much to add until I try to do mine. I'll likely do what the thread suggested, seems reasonable. I'll post my experiences after I try.
I just posted August 2012 progress on our website, www.currin.us. Our interior is nearly done and the end is in sight. We hope to be functional by the end of September, but all kinds of problems could delay us. Hope you find the blow by blow interesting.
Post by Hugh Currin on Oct 7, 2012 23:56:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the kind words. It becomes overwhelming sometimes and such support helps a lot.
We started putting the skin back on this weekend. However, the aluminum we ordered was damaged in shipment, waiting to hear about a re-order. We can continue with all but the front and back though. Still way too much to do.
Your progress and detail is sincerely appreciated. As I work through my restore/rebuild I glean bits and pieces from others in their efforts. Yours has given me a number of great ideas and methods to meet my needs. I am to the point of installing rigid insulation on the exterior and was contemplating the method of getting it to stay in place. Your mini clamps and use of liquid nails were an "a ha" moment and give me hope I can do this. I had considered liquid nails but was going to do a mock up to see if it would "melt" the insulation. I will probably still do this but if it has worked for you I feel confident it will be a done deal. I love the mini clamps and will use that method. I am going to finish mine off with tyvek? any thoughts?
Post by Hugh Currin on Oct 9, 2012 11:34:38 GMT -5
Thanks for the support.
In using glue to hold the rigid foam place, be sure to try on a scrap of foam before using. I didn't have a problem but my foam had an aluminum foil coating which protects the foam some. The glue didn't cause problems but I highly recommend a trial piece.
I tried a couple of methods to hold the foam while gluing. I ended up using small scraps of wood with a screw in the middle. This screws into the framing overhanging the foam, if needed a small scrap of 1/8" ply can be placed between clamp and foam to take up slack. It worked for me.
Most pieces stayed in place just via a force fit. The skin should keep everything in place once it's together.
I considered using a vapor barrier, like Tyvec. As I understand it, a vapor barrier goes nearest the warm side of the wall. If placed on the cold side, vapor will move through the wall until it hits the colder barrier and condense. This moves moisture into the wall which is opposite of what we want. With no air conditioning, only heating, the vapor barrier should go towards the inside of the wall. So, I decided to not put a vapor barrier to the outside of the insulation. It's too late to put one between framing and birch ply. Could be wrong but that was my logic. This condensation is likely even with no barrier. Vapor will pass into the wall and condense at the cold aluminum skin. Likely best to leave a few windows cracked for ventilation?
I did use tape (Tyvec tape) to hold the insulation in place. I doubt it'll stick to the wood but sticks real well to the aluminuzed foam. I overlapped the tape from one foam piece, over the wood framing, to the next insulation piece where feasible. This gives a partial vapor barrier.
All the damage on our trailer was from outside leaks, but the insulation was pitiful. Leaks were all around the base of the floor, around windows, and at front and back edge seams. I'll seal the windows and around the base of the walls as well as possible (and use an undercoating). A vapor barrier would do little good here. In our 1955 the wall seams front and back just butt together with a trim piece and buytl tape. If I re-skin the front and back I'll fold over the aluminum as was done of the roof which worked well. If I use the original I'll likely put a barrier, 1' wide or so, at these joints. This may help with leaks.
But remember, I don't know what I'm doing. You'll have to check in 20-30 years (with my heirs) to see how it worked out long term. Please let me know what you do and how it works.
currinh: I used your method of installing the rigid foam and it worked great! I made a sample board up and let it cure for a couple of days and the foam was firmly attached. So, I proceeded with the installation, starting with the most radical radius I have. I did have to cut some cerf's in the foam, I used by 18volt saw and cut them on 1" centers (not exactly) and the foam bent very well. Using the foil backed rigid insulation, the foil should work great as a vapor barrier so I am pretty confident that using the tyvek to prevent air from penetrating the unit, it should work ok, but am still evaluating that. I know when in the building industry that the tyvek goes on the outside just under the siding and works as a barrier to prevent air penetration so I am not clear on why it would not work here. Anyone? Again, thanks for the idea's, the small wooden blocks made great clamps and were easy to fabricate. 1961shastacompactrestoration.shutterfly.com/pictures/8
Post by Hugh Currin on Oct 15, 2012 11:22:47 GMT -5
You have a beautiful looking trailer. Wonderful work!
It's great to hear the rigid foam worked for you. My cuts were about 2" apart and that seemed to work well.
I still don't know about the Tyvec covering. You're right, it's seen on the outside of houses, just under siding. Maybe I'm just getting lazy, but I decided to not put it on ours. I'm sure ours is still sealed much better than the original, even before the corners opened up via wood rot. I'm sure it'll be fine which ever way you go.
Post by Hugh Currin on Dec 4, 2012 15:09:53 GMT -5
Update for November is now on our website.
It just takes so much time. I keep thinking it'll only be another couple of weeks, then another month goes by. But each month we get closer to the end. But I'll have to take some time for other things now, it may be spring till Shasta's truly complete.
Post by Gone Kayaking on Dec 5, 2012 17:31:02 GMT -5
It's coming along nicely. I heartily second your comments about reskinning the front an backs to add fold overs and making sure they fit....It took a little bit of persuasion shall we say on mine. I just used regular drip rail on my edges and it's working fine, though your solution is a great one. Love everything else, and it is so true that the bits and pieces just keep coming. Can't wait to see your first camping post.
1956 Shasta 1500
Can't wait to go campin'
Post by Gone Kayaking on Dec 7, 2012 0:03:55 GMT -5
Hey Hugh Glad it's coming together! Can't wait to see her finished. We should do a 50's Shasta camp out this summer. I think there's several of us on here in relatively close proximity for a Lassen (maybe??) camping trip.
1956 Shasta 1500
Can't wait to go campin'