Post by montanablue on Mar 29, 2010 13:26:47 GMT -5
First, let me make sure we are talking about the same curved wood. Are you referring to the strips of wood that follow the roof line on both sides of the trailer? If this is what you are talking about, I cut strips the thickness of the walls from a 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4 luan and layered them to meet the same height as the walls. I mixed in some strips of cedar as well. I stacked them and tacked them with a air stapler as I moved to the bottom of my camper. Are you replacing all of the strips? Just make sure to keep the height of the strips the same height so that the aluminum matches up to your strips. You will be tacking the aluminum to the strips then covering the edges with the roof metal and drip edge. Does this make sense?
That is the piece! I have had a few suggestions to use "hardboard" as well but I like the luann suggestion better.
The trick is going to be matching the old curvature as you mentioned. The existing wood was rotted beyond recognition and full of mold. I was thinking about using the skin as a template and building some sort of jig out of a piece of particle board and 2x4's - then gluing and tacking the strips together and maintaining the curvature with clamps and the jig. I have 2 of these to construct - the other side is not as bad as the side I have already ripped out but while it is apart, it seems best to just go ahead and replace it too.
got thinking that I should probably prime this or some how treat it as this is where the moisture is most likely to get in at some point in the future.
Post by Atomic Addiction on Mar 29, 2010 17:20:02 GMT -5
Isn't it easier to just cut the profile of the curve out of a piece of plywood?
If a certain thickness is needed then just cut out the pieces and glue and tack them together to make the thickness. You would need quite a few pieces to make the full profile of the trailer but I have seen it done.
If you use thinner pieces then you can overlap them at the joints to get strength.
No bending required. No need to build any jigs.
I will see if I can find a picture to illustrate what I'm talking about.
Post by montanablue on Mar 29, 2010 19:11:23 GMT -5
Here is an example of the layering I described. I do agree with Brian about cutting a solid piece of wood to use but if the wood is solid and all you need to add is the strips, then that is a no brainer. You just build up the layers until you match the aluminum skin. But if your wood is all gone then using the solid wood to mock the shape of the skin is much easier. Most of my wood was still there so I replaced the rotten strips of wood. I just wonder if there was some reason that Shasta used the strips of wood over the solid pieces. Does anybody have an idea. Did it have to do with all of the nails and staples located on the corner edging.
I am going to "prototype" up a simple truss-like design using ripped 2x4's (down to appropriate thickness to match existing), using the skin to match the curvature, then just fasten the first course of material (masonite, cedar strips, ripped particle board) to the truss "legs" and apply the next courses to get the desired thickness. It has bothered me since I tore it down that this area seems very flimsy as constructed. I like things overbuilt to some degree and this would allow me to solve at least one other thing that has been bothering me at the same time..
Stay tuned - will take copious pics. If this works, I may do it the entire length of the "edge" front to back on both sides. Should be far stronger than original.
rkymtnman, your form and layup sound like the bentwood lamination that montanablue was talking about, except he did his in place and you can't do that and have to make a jig in the shop.
i'd say leave out the masonite & particle board rips. use solid wood rips-you can probably get away with up to 1/4" thick or so-and waterproof glue like titebond III or better yet, gorilla glue. that stuff expands a little though, and you'd have to lay it up quick and strap it tight around your form with a 3/4" ratchet strap. and you'd have some edge cleanup afterwards.
however, if you cut a curved board out of plywood as brian suggested, i don't think you'd sacrifice any structural integrity at all, and you'd save lots of time. trade that for the marine (douglas fir) plywood that i'm going to recommend for the purpose. join adjacent framing members to it with pocket screws.
my long winded 2 cents. -elliott
Last Edit: Mar 30, 2010 20:50:42 GMT -5 by elliott
Post by jaydar1968 on Mar 31, 2010 13:04:15 GMT -5
Has anyone used PVC construction material before, like Versatex, for the curved framing members? I know it comes in various thicknesses from 5/8" to 1-1/4" and as narrow as 2", plus it's very flexible and rot-free. This is something I have thought of before but don't know if anyone has tried it yet to see if it really works. Of course one of the things I've thought about would be how well it would handle the expansion and contraction during normal and/or extreme temperature changes. I know wood expands/contracts too but not to the extreme PVC does. Plus, these campers can be like ovens when left sitting in the sun so I don't know how well it would hold up to extreme heat.
Plus, would pilot holes need to be drilled for all the screws?
They use this stuff on houses but this is obviously a different application so I don't know if it's a good idea or not. Any thoughts? Anyone in the construction trade have experience with this stuff? Here's a link to Versatex web site: www.versatex.com/trimboard.php
Another question here...Do all Shastas have the curved framing member run all the way along the profile edge in one continuous piece, with the cross members that go from one side of the trailer to the other screwed into the inside edge of the curved framing piece? To me that does not seem as strong as having the cross member pieces a little bit longer and then screwed into the top edge of the wall framing/interior paneling, and then having the curved framing member just fill in the space from one cross member to the next. I've seen it done both ways on various reconstruction blogs/websites.
Well - here is where I am at currently. Sloooooow process but I think it will be a ton stronger than what was in there originally. Currently the "curve" is not attached to the frame permanently and I have 5 more strips of luann to add - then it is on to the other side. Will probably sand the glued curve portion down so it is a smoother and more unifor finish. Obviously have to trim each end. I staggered the top part so I can overlap randomly when I continue along the top corner of the camper which after further review, ought to be repairs while I am at it.
I have updated my photobucket slide show with current pics of where I am at if anyone is interested. Decided to build the remaining "curves" on the camper to save time - and I think it will save a ton of time and be more "accurate" in the end.
I do have one question - I have never seen anyone do it but why not, since all the framing is exposed and rebuilt - apply some type of sealant to the wood? That way, in the even water does get in and goes undetected for a bit, the wood can shed it and (hopefully) no rot will begin. What do you think? Worth the effort??
Post by 61shastacompact on Apr 6, 2010 20:35:19 GMT -5
I applied a deck sealant and painted (Rustoleam) most of my rebuilt framing before I put the skin back on. You can see it in my pics of the rebuild. I figured that it can't hurt and will provide a barrier against condensation/moisture. I am surprised to see that others don't apply some layer of added protection.
I haven't been able to come up with a good reason to not spend a little extra time and seal the wood. Seems like after going through all this effort, another couple hours to seal it all would be time well spent if for nothing other than a little added insurance.
As a side note - building the curves on the camper is a much quicker method of getting these built. I got half the rear curve done last night and will have it finished up by tonight when I will be starting on the other corner as well. One thing is for sure - this thing will be rock solid when I am done with it Plan to be enjoying it when it turns 75
I've been toying with this same question for a couple days . I think you have done it the best way there is. that is if you used solid lumber ripped down rather than plywood. I think plywood would be somewhat suspect because if wet it will de laminate. I'm planing to copy my metal work for a simple pattern like yours and stack laminate ripped down pine. this should be quite strong. Even plywood would if you can keep it dry. Wayne