SLIDE OUT A/C

[blu26ovl]

Since I turned my old closet in my 69 compact into a bathroom that led me to build a new closet which made a perfect location for my A/C installation. I know some may not want to cut a hole in the side of your camper but depending on the camper you may have a vent already there that was for a gas appliance that you aren't using and could open that section up for a/c installation. I put the unit on drawer slides that I got from Lowes or any building supply store. I did have to modify and weld a few tabs on since I didn't see anything that was ready to go as is.

In this photo you can see where I started mocking the slides up. You'll see where I welded tabs to bolt it down and and close off the end of the track. This keeps the unit from coming out of the tracks.

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[blu26ovl]

Here's the a/c mounted on the slides. You'll see just under the right front corner of the a/c there is a tab welded to the track and bolts into the unit to hold it on the track.

The tab below and center of the unit that has a nut welded to it is for when unit is pulled in, I have a bolt that comes up through a hole in the top of the closet and threads into this to make sure the unit does not move any when in travel.

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[blu26ovl]

On this photo you can see a tab that I welded to the track to bolt it to the track towards the rear of the unit. FYI, tabs are on both sides so there are 4 tabs that have bolts/screws holding the unit to the tracks. Be very careful where you drill any holes in the a/c that you don't hit anything vital.

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[blu26ovl]

Here is unit from inside slide out.

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[blu26ovl]

Instead of using the top bracket that came with the unit, I used a piece of aluminum angle I had and made the bracket/stop for the top of the a/c. I glued a small strip of dense rubbery foam to each side of the a/c and behind the aluminum angle to seal it off to the framing when the a/c is in use and slide out.

The a/c unit slides in from the outside to slide in the track that is bolted down to the top of the closet and then the aluminum angle is bolted to the top of the a/c unit. that keeps unit from pulling all the way out when you slide out to use.

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[blu26ovl]

Here's a cover that I made to match all of my cabinet tops and when a/c is out I put this over slides to hide them. I also tuck the power cord under here and have just enough cord coming out to plug into the side of the closet.

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[blu26ovl]

Here is photo with a/c slide out. I made my door but you could probably find a cargo door that would work also. I did drill a couple of small holes in the door frame to hook a couple of small bungee cords to to keep door down in case of wind.

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[blu26ovl]

Here is unit with door closed. I used a piece of aluminum piano type hinge at the top and found these stainless steel latches to keep door closed.
The window to the left of the a/c is an extra bunk window I got from a friend along with the aluminum for the door that came out of a parted out Shasta. The window is for the bathroom.

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[blu26ovl]

This set up could be adapted in different ways with a little imagination. It just happened to work out for me since I was doing modifications to the inside anyway. It could be mounted lower and slide out or even under a rear bench and use the cargo door already there. This works great mounted high since cold air falls. I also completely insulated the camper when I rebuilt. I have never had to run the unit on high cool even with temps in the mid to upper 90's.
I hope these photo's and explanations help if your are thinking about this type of set up. Let me know if you have any questions,I'll try my best to answer.
By the way this is a 5000 BTU unit.

[lopo]

Thanks so much, Brent. I think my a/c unit is the same one you have. I already have a closet in the same spot at the one you built, right next to the upper bunk window. Since I don't have the skills you have, in particular the ability to weld, i'm looking for a ready-made slide-out shelf that's the same width as my a/c unit, and I've ordered the large top-hinged refrigerator vent from VTS. I don't think I'll need to cut the hole as wide as the vent is, but it'll still be nice to have a vent that's a bit bigger in case I have to replace the a/c at some point and can't find one the same size.

[blu26ovl]

Lopo, do you or have you had the paneling or aluminum off in this area? Be sure to check for any wall framing in that area before cutting hole out. If you have paneling or aluminum off it would be good to frame around the opening. If not you can cut pieces and slip between paneling and aluminum and put small nails or screws to hold framing in and that might give you a solid mounting point for a/c door.

[lopo]

Thanks bunches for the tips! I haven't started this project yet. I did order a slide-out shelf today that I can screw down and mount the a/c on. I think I'll put reinforcement on that shelf before I screw it onto it. I guess I'll go with the large vent I ordered from VTS because, well, it's hinged at the top which is perfect, and it's ready-made, which is also perfect. I have about 3 tools and stuff scattered about the house - don't exactly have a shop here. I may let my brother-in-law in Ohio do this for me when I go there before heading west. He does very good careful work and has offered to help.

[boandsusan]

Lopo, blue26ovl is right, you`ll need to frame in the opening. Our compacts are the same yr so I`m guessing that your framing is the same as ours. The framing in that area is even more sparse than the rest of the trailer. There is NOTHING there to support or attach your exterior ven/door to. I think I remember where the framing is and how it runs. I`ll remember when I`m in there looking at it. There is another way to do it. You could build a frame on the back wall of the closet to support the rough opening.

[lopo]

I like the idea of building the frame on the back of the closet first, Susan, and then cutting the wall out after it's done. I don't want to be scrambling to hold the ceiling up until I get it framed in.
I might take this on myself with all this help from you all, but I'll wait a week or so since I just sliced one of my fingers last night (in the kitchen), and it's hard to work with a big bandage on it. I'm klutzy enough.

[lopo]

So there's not only nothing there to attach the a/c door to, but I'll be cutting a support stud that's 3" from the corner of the closet. So do I need to do something about the support stud, separate from building the frame to fasten the door to?

[boandsusan]

YES. or the camper wall will drop! Believe me I know (don`t ask). Plus the exterior skin will ripple. The correct way to do this is to remove the 4ft wide piece of interior panel that starts at the window and runs behind the closet. You can see the joint to the right of the window. All your framing will be exposed in the area that you need to frame out the opening. You have to support the original framing that you will be cutting into with a horizontal piece of framing to the vertical framing, each side. Am I making sense here? Like a "header" in a door or window of a house. If I can remember exactly where the framing is, I think you could do the framing inside the closet and using long screws, attach it to the original framing for support.

[lopo]

Susan, if there's one thing I know, it's that I don't dare start removing wall panels. I can picture a header for a door or window so I'm with you there, but I'm able to picture how I can do it from inside the closet. The piece of support frame that I will need to cut is a vertical piece that's 3" in from the left wall of the closet.

[lopo]

I meant to write that I'm not clear on whether I can do this inside the closet without removing the wall panel...

[boandsusan]

I think you can do the framing in the closet without removing the panel but you need to know where the original framing is so that you can "scab" to it, through the paneling. That way, any original framing that you cut through for the opening will be supported.

[cowcharge]

Very neat job! I really like the slide cover that matches the counter. Can I ask you, what does the electrical data tag say for how many amps or watts the unit uses? We generally don't need a/c in Maine for our houses that often, but it does go over 100 in August occasionally, and the camper sure does heat up with the sun beatin' on it.

[blu26ovl]

Thanks for the compliments cowcharge.
I checked and the unit shows 4.8 amps and 515 watts. It is a 5000 BTU Frigidaire unit.

Brent

[cowcharge]

Wow, that's no more than my furnace takes! I guess I'll only worry about paying for the thing then, if I decide to get one. I was expecting twice that at least.

[valewf]

Clean install. I think this would work better than an "under the bed" type of installation. It uses the window ac as it was designed to work. With coil on the the outside so it can get rid of the heat.
Do you have pictures of the overall layout of your rig? Would be nice to see how it all fits together.