And so it begins . What was your title? Ah Yes, "Light renovation". Fun Fun Fun! All joking aside your doing a GREAT job.
Yeah, Well, least I am inside Do you think throwing a solid in there, is a good approach? With most of the stuff just above the floor level looking salvageable, The 2x's just behind the original is looking solid and firm, and a marine grade board available. I can cut it to fit the profile, beef up the ends and let the new verticals at the end bear a top them. I can just replace 7 vertical inches, scab on, glue in with some clamps. "solid" If I watch the weight and don't go crazy I would really like to use a solid. Tinker toying with the light weight strips is a pain. I don't know about trying to replace the galvanize sheet metal flashing either.
Post by pathfinder3081 on Jan 27, 2013 13:08:56 GMT -5
A solid it is! I have decided to go in with a strip of 3/4" (Actual 3/4") of marine ply wood for this lower apron/skirt what ever we call it. I saw the method use in some of Soups work on his Loflytes as well and think that it will be more than sufficient for what I have going on. I am going to rip it to the depth required, trace the contour of whats left of the galvanized flashing, cut it out and go from there. I looked at the treated stuff, the pine planking and poplar board. The marine stuff is solid and will never de-laminate, it wont split and should give me years of service.. However.. we had a icy road thing Friday afternoon and though this place that sell it is only 20 miles away, they close at lunch on Saturday.. I'm going to have to go during this week to pick it up. $84 a 4x8 sheet. But it will last my life time if I install it right.. Which bring me to my request for feed back... Bracing! Do I have enough? I started this installation this weekend. As you can see I have the side braced up now against the floor.
Post by pathfinder3081 on Jan 27, 2013 13:17:12 GMT -5
The interior is another matter. I have seen how many of you have addressed this endeavor, but all of the interior trim, framing and cabinets have been out.. for the most part anyway. You can see in the attached what I am trying to achieve.. Will it be enough? If I tip toe thru the front first, brace and remove as I infill the solid ply back to the tire well and ect,ect Then the back, with this be sufficient? Or will the side come crashing down like wet sandwich and make me take a match to it? The back is what has me worried..
Post by pathfinder3081 on Jan 27, 2013 14:42:03 GMT -5
Hey LV, Take a gander at the pic. The mitered corner should trim at the bottom as it does on the top and as this left side shows. Many.. or most Shasta's, Compacts, Airflytes and many other models do not have this trim. The "Rippled" door skin simply runs to its' edge and is crimped over.. It's not trim out on the three sides at all. Now when I see a 70+ Model like my own, this bottom door trim is always missing. I imagine they are all laying in a ditch somewhere in "Camping Park America" with a story to tell but no one to listen.
Post by pathfinder3081 on Feb 11, 2013 21:47:56 GMT -5
Talk about a pain in the butt! So many of you; My fellow "Shasta owners" made this endeavor appear a little time consuming, yes.. But man! Not much fun at all! But if you can't get out of it, get into it ( or act like it). Here is where I am at as of now and what I am doing. After looking at what I was pulling out, I decided to go with a Marine plywood. Yes it has to be sealed up and it drys in the foyer as I write, with it's second coat of exterior latex. I pulled some paper templates together to make sure that the profile would be correct. This ply is going to support all of the vertical load on the post frame. This ply is the bomb! It is constructed with a exterior birch layer and interior fir layers. Zero voids, and the glue will be strong against water and should not de-laminate if it ever gets wet. It's solid. The front section and the rear section weigh in at 15 pounds combined I am going with some vertical flat bars connecting the board to the angle legs and some through bolts at the 2'xs that are still on the frame. I have my kreg kit as well.
Post by pathfinder3081 on Feb 11, 2013 22:09:31 GMT -5
I used the aluminum skin as a basic tracing for the shape. I crunched some numbers, and lot's of bending over and standing up... I have a couple of Saturdays on this stuff. But, it's almost ready to be finished. Another Saturday and this will be done. The picture here shows how it will fit. The cuts have been made on the rot, it's been removed and braced up until I can get back at it Saturday. Thank the Lord the other side is in better shape. Pulling windows and replacing some window dope is one thing. This was a PAIN.. sorry, there I said it again.
"Light renovation" LOL Awesome job, you didn't need my help. It looks like you took my advice and pics, then went your own beefier direction! Looking good, solid and overbuilt. Just like I like em! Love it!
Post by pathfinder3081 on Feb 24, 2013 19:39:55 GMT -5
Well, I finished the installation or my skirt panels. All in all, I am satisfied with the end product all the numbers added up and taking a closer peep at that rear corner exposed (lower shot in the pic) I found the framing there was spared long term exposure and is solid enough for few more summers. Most of the anchors tie back to the 2x's w/ 1/4 bolts. Keg screws to the upper which I tied back as well.
Post by pathfinder3081 on Feb 24, 2013 19:51:38 GMT -5
I am going to tap and crimp the galvanized tin back over the skirts edge and fasten it down with tacks before I reattached the skin. The rear part of the front run is attached to the frame with a through bolt as well. I attached a flat bar to the vertical leg of the framing angle under the floor. A piece of 2x4 was a even spacer between the two. It's solid You can see the white back side of the skirt panel to the right of the 2x4. I filled this area with caulking after making a form to shape and fill the frayed plywood flooring's' edge. It works.
Post by pathfinder3081 on Feb 24, 2013 20:24:37 GMT -5
I'll take some finish pics at another weekend...Since I was in the rear of the camper, I thought I would go ahead and make sure there was no rot back there and I am happy to say there is not. In closing, I want to turn you on to something. (many already know, so forgive me)... When I was replacing the rear window tape in the summer, I also "re-putty taped" the skin seam from the wing down to the bottom edge. You know, the one piece section of j-rail.. MAN! This stuff was like impossible. Still soft, but real firm.. I pushed and pulled, putty knife...Scrapper... This "&%$ seals. But I had to get it off and I was bending the j-rail like crazy... Then I got to thinki'n...... A WIRE..I forget what the spooks call them. At one time I think they were considered illegal if finished and affixed to handles.. However, this worked best.. like BUTTA.. I tell you. Aircraft safety wire..Strong and thin.. It's stainless but I bet a old guitar string would work as well. Yes you still have to get the putty off, but your j rail is off and not bent up.. Good luck!
pathfinder- this is looking really good. I know you didn't plan on this much work when you started out, so you are to be commended for sticking it out and doing it well. It'll be so worth it in the end.
Post by pathfinder3081 on Apr 30, 2013 11:29:41 GMT -5
We did our first no “Shore Power” gig in the Loflyte this past weekend. Ahhh! The freedom one feels! No more being bummed out because all of the Partial hookup sites are full. NO MORE!. We now have a good, solid 3 nights of power with our hours of consumption beings about 3 to 4 hours per night. Our testing grounds were at the VFW Campground in North Wilkesboro this past Weekend.. MERL Fest! The power was consumed by 3 strands (30’-0) of Christmas lights on the Awning. An interior 25 watt “pigtail” used a few times, and a small portable CD player. This stuff ran for about 3 to 4 hours each night or day. In addition? Our small Microwave ran at 3 different occasions for a total combined time of 5 minutes and 43 seconds. My brother-in-law ran his air mattress pump for a total of 4 minutes. We ran Our small 4 cup coffee maker Sunday morning just for the record. (lol) These things eat AMPS.
I went with a Deep Cell Marine Style battery for now. No it is not a “true deep cell” battery in the RV world, but the price and size was a good place for me to start. It’s a group 31, about 110 amp hours, 12 volt. Warranty is for a year, Auto-zone, after discounts and $25.00 credit voucher for another shopping visit to them? $72.00 and they took an old Lawn mower battery for the cord charge.
The Converter/Charger is a Progressive Dynamics PD9245CV Inteli-Power 9200 Series 45 Amp Converter/Charger with Built-in Charge Wizard. I think that it is more than enough for my requirement and at this level. It topped out the battery from 50% to a full charge in less than 12 hours, but I am still taking notes and creating a bench mark in which to go by. $125.00 delivered
The AC/DC Digital Inverter is from Northern Tool. “N-power” 1000 watt constant w/ 2000 watt peak. I might go with a 1500 in the future, but for now this will serve me well. It’s pretty darn accurate as well as I tested in comparison with a Multi-Meter. After 20.00 coupon $98.50 w/tax www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_npower.
Ran my gear in the water tank area. Here, the hatch is open and I run my shore power plug back into the inverter for testing.. All is good.
We're glad you enjoyed your first boondock experience. It IS wonderful knowing you don't need to rely on connections to function. You've done a wonderful job, and we commend your patience and willingness to do it right. May you have many, many more fun outings!
Post by pathfinder3081 on May 3, 2013 7:53:46 GMT -5
Thanks Hamlet, I had some good pics and wiring layouts to post for those wondering as I was when I started.. "How can I do this right?" Perhaps We'll get this proboard crap worked out before to long. I can go back and chop and delete all my old pictures if that will make things better. But I was hoping to use my post as "evident restoration" or my attempts to do so if and when I ever tried to sell this toaster. I've kept all of my pics ona disk. (thnk the lrd) We are all bummed out about it. But stay the course, something will happen and if we have to move on to another site and format, we'll do it and will do it together.
Post by pathfinder3081 on May 6, 2013 14:10:23 GMT -5
Well, I did my part.. or tried to. All of my illustrations, wanderings and attempts to describe my renovations by picture are now gone. I do hope this helps the PB board fellows make more room for their stuff. It really did not take away that many bites as I had most of my stuff less than 150 kb. Anyhoot.. keep'em rolling NO MORE TRAILER PORN HERE!
Post by pathfinder3081 on May 7, 2013 9:41:29 GMT -5
I am BigBill, Just gotta get around to it. Photobucket and my system at work do not get along and I rarely do alot on computer stuff at my home. A man can spend a alot of hours on these things. I surf and do my camper homework at the office. During my lunch hour and such. I can not view, photobuckets, youtube, most blogs and some of the other "Host" style sites here. Security "what-evers", I understand and feel lucky to have internet access at all while at work. I am able to surf and enter on this site though. Ebay, Craigs list and most retail places.. Just not the classic "host" style joints. No biggy, just a thing.