cropper2
100 Post Member
"Trixie"
Posts: 184
|
Post by cropper2 on May 18, 2012 7:28:52 GMT -5
When I took of the walls of my '72 Shasta 1400, I pulled out what looks like normal (albeit really thin) house insulation with no backing. On the forum, I've seen stuff that looks like foam and heard of bubble wrap. what should I consider in deciding what to use?
I am in eastern Maryland, where temps hang around in the high 80s and 90s in the summer and commonly the 30s in the winter.
Can anyone provide some insight on this for me?
Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by dawgpound on May 18, 2012 8:12:15 GMT -5
I prefer to use the 3/4" thick Blue Foam insulation that you can pickup at Lowes. Some box stores carry a pink foam board. I cut the pieces a hair larger then the openings between the framing. This way it is a real tight fit. Attachments:
|
|
cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
|
Post by cowcharge on May 18, 2012 9:31:41 GMT -5
I'm using Tuff-R isocyanurate sheets, the ones with the silver on both sides. 'Bout $30 per 1-1/2" sheet at the lumberyard. It's got the highest R rating (9.8/inch IIRC), and also the best water and mildew resistance (it's one of the few things on which I didn't go for the cheapest option). I used aluminum tape to cover all the seams and wooden framing, both to make the camper tighter, and to keep condensation from getting into the walls if it becomes a problem when I'm cooking and breathing in the winter. A LOT of aluminum tape.
|
|
debmc
New Member
Posts: 29
|
Post by debmc on May 18, 2012 9:34:35 GMT -5
Ross-- I love the pic of your framed and insulated wall. I don't know if it's because I appreciate the amount of work that it took to get there, or because it looks so much better than what you probably took out. It looks "almost" as good as when the walls go in! (Call me strange)
|
|
offspringin
1K Post Member
Never question the engineer's judgement!
Posts: 1,424
|
Post by offspringin on May 18, 2012 9:52:51 GMT -5
i went the same route as Ross except ours was a white foam w/some sort of backing on it. We did the same thing. Cut them to be just a tad wider than the opening, they fit snug and look great (not that you ever see it).
|
|
|
Post by pathfinder3081 on May 18, 2012 12:25:57 GMT -5
I am with you debmc, those cut out pannels looked squared away. And, in thinking it would be about the only way you could incorporate that style insulation. I am sure that it has got to be better than the fiber. Good job campers!
|
|
cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
|
Post by cowcharge on May 18, 2012 12:58:17 GMT -5
Sure but how's it look with a disco ball? Attachments:
|
|
Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
|
Post by Gone Kayaking on May 18, 2012 19:08:24 GMT -5
I used the pink foam with aluminum tape all around. I did use the aluminum bubble wrap on the curves (I have a canned ham) and used several layers in the bays where those were used, also using aluminum tape to affix. The bubble wrap also works GREAT wrapped around the inside of a cooler, and in the windows to keep the camper from getting too hot.
|
|
cropper2
100 Post Member
"Trixie"
Posts: 184
|
Post by cropper2 on May 18, 2012 20:56:59 GMT -5
I almost hate to admit this out loud, but WHAT THE HECK IS BUBBLE WRAP? Surely, you don't mean the stuff used for packing breakables. ??
|
|
vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
|
Post by vikx on May 19, 2012 1:23:55 GMT -5
Bubble wrap is aluminum colored insulation in a roll. Very easy to work with and clean. (no little white styro balls flying thru the air) I often use it in the ceiling.
|
|
vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
|
Post by vikx on May 19, 2012 1:26:53 GMT -5
Here's an example of the wheel well covered in bubble wrap. Attachments:
|
|
cropper2
100 Post Member
"Trixie"
Posts: 184
|
Post by cropper2 on May 19, 2012 5:38:42 GMT -5
Well that certainly makes more sense than the clear plastic stuff I was envisioning. Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by pathfinder3081 on May 19, 2012 8:39:11 GMT -5
;D Well that certainly makes more sense than the clear plastic stuff I was envisioning. Thanks! Cropper I was thinking the same thing.. We live and learn, read and find out.
|
|
|
Post by schweetcruisers on May 19, 2012 16:29:13 GMT -5
I'll probably be drummed off this forum for this but...
I am seriously considering having my spray foam contractor come and spray mine. I have stood in his cargo trailer which he spray foamed and in the middle of the summer it was 75-85 degrees in it, then we went and stood in my Cargo Trailer which is not insulated and it was well over 100 degrees.
To me the foam just makes more sense, since it sells all the voids and bonds the whole thing together. Granted I don't think I would do this had I done a skin on resto, I wouldn't want the foam bonded to the Aluminium skin in case I need to repair anything.
|
|
Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
|
Post by Gone Kayaking on May 19, 2012 21:44:18 GMT -5
If you have a pro do it, I don't see the harm. Especially since it won't be with the skin on. My trailer with just the pink foam (and not in all the bays --since I didn't take all the birch off) is appreciably cooler than the outside.
|
|
vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
|
Post by vikx on May 20, 2012 1:44:10 GMT -5
I think it depends on the year of the trailer and how original you want to keep it whether you use spray foam.
Personally, I would not do it on one of my 50s canned hams. Just because. A newer 70s trailer is not as rare and might benefit from extra insulation.
That stuff is impossible to work around if repairs are ever needed.
|
|
cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
|
Post by cowcharge on May 20, 2012 14:06:19 GMT -5
Purity of vintage aside, it's easier and no doubt makes the whole trailer tighter and stronger, but it also encapsulates every wire and through-hull fitting, and any future wiring or water leak repair would be a royal pita.
|
|