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Post by divalori on Jul 21, 2012 9:22:15 GMT -5
I have some dents etc in my original J rail and I'm wondering if it's possible to maybe bend it back and reuse? Trying to keep this restore on as cheap of a level as I can, thanks!
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 21, 2012 9:29:27 GMT -5
Yes you can use it over again, but j rail is not expensive and can be obtained from just about any rv supply place. If you have a canned ham style you will have to bend a new one to match the old shape, which can prove a bit of a challenge and would argue for keeping the one you have. Just clean it up real good if you do. You will also want to clean the skin thoroughly around and replace any wood that is rotted (signs of leakage) Make sure to then use new butyl tape under the rail. Another trick is to fill the old screw holes in the frame with toothpicks and glue so that the new stainless steel screws that you'll use to replace the old will get a better bite.
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Post by divalori on Jul 21, 2012 9:39:01 GMT -5
I don't have the canned ham shape; I have a '71 1400. There are just a couple places where they obviously hit something and the edges are completely bent in, no bottom on the "J" if you know what I mean. So would I just hammer it open again? Thanks for your other tips too!
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Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 21, 2012 9:58:56 GMT -5
If you don't have bends, I'd just get new....it is really not expensive.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Jul 22, 2012 1:13:50 GMT -5
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soup
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Post by soup on Jul 22, 2012 7:15:57 GMT -5
I'm with vikx on this one! But hey, I already have the tool but not the money for new rail. I'm cheap
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Post by neophyte on Jul 24, 2012 11:55:38 GMT -5
Thanks! Answered my question, too. I saw Vikx posted these on a tools list and wondered if they would work for the j rail.
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Post by dazredford on Feb 22, 2013 1:24:24 GMT -5
When putting on the new J-rail I see many mention butyl tape. At the RV place they said to use putty tape because the butyl tape ends up running in our intense heat (AZ). Does anyone add anything before the J-rail to cover the rounded edges of the trail where the sides meet? Seems like the J-rail isn't much protection against water inside. Any input on that?
Also, took out windows and cleaned them up. Was going to use the putty tape under them too. But see some kind of cording/ felt pads? used between metal corners of windows and the skin.... Confused about this? Is it necessary?
Thanks for input!
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Post by harrison429 on Feb 22, 2013 8:29:30 GMT -5
i concur with the rv dealership as i used butyl under my jrail here in GA a year ago and i don't think its cured even yet! i'm not sure what you're saying with the "to cover the rounded edges of the trailer where the sides meet" since my edges didn't meet, they overlapped. pics may help here...
i have no idea what the cording/felt pads were supposed to do except a schlocky repair/stuffing as the correct way is to reputty? you use putty any time metal is meeting metal.
do some research as there are plenty of posts on the forum that you can read to learn more about all of this.
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Post by paigenmarc on Feb 22, 2013 20:25:33 GMT -5
We just put on new J-Rail and I didn't think it was that hard. It bent pretty easily if you go one screw at a time and bend it slowly. We followed cannedhamman's video and did it just like that. I did find that the awning rail was harder to bend, especially at the ends, but it was our first time doing it and we didn't screw it up
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Feb 22, 2013 23:04:11 GMT -5
Window flanges are fine with RV putty. Some older trailers do have odd mesh like putty but it can be replaced with RV putty. I don't recommend butyl in hot climes; it does tend to ooze a bit much.
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 23, 2013 19:00:15 GMT -5
Just a little hint here if you are going to "beat and bend" the lip of the J Rail back into place. Remove the J Rail from the trailer first and then put it in a vice and "beat and bend" it back into shape there. If you do it while it's still on the camper you will most likely begin to strip the screw holes in the old wooden frame that they are attached to. Then you have a good chance for a full on leak there. Probably needs new butyl anyways. A trailer that old should have everything taken off and re-sealed now and then you won't have to worry about it for another 20 years. J rail is $2 a foot. Butyl putty tape is $5 a roll. 3 rolls will do most trailers complete, windows and all.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Feb 24, 2013 1:46:54 GMT -5
Thank you Mobiltec! It's always good to work on the edge trim off the trailer. Since ours is always off, it never occurred to me to explain your point.
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Post by dazredford on Feb 24, 2013 13:21:05 GMT -5
Thank you everyone! We ordered new J-rails and bought putty (not butyl) tape. As for the window, yes going to using the putty - was just really confused about the felt stuff. Polished up the windows with Mothers and lots of elbow grease/ wire pad. We are almost there! Painted outside yesterday. Spring Break soon
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Feb 24, 2013 15:27:07 GMT -5
Spring Break soon
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 24, 2013 21:21:22 GMT -5
Thank you Mobiltec! It's always good to work on the edge trim off the trailer. Since ours is always off, it never occurred to me to explain your point. Exactly and ask me how I learned that by the way LOL...... Im the Dean of the school of hard knocks....
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Post by dazredford on Feb 26, 2013 23:43:38 GMT -5
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