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Post by capnjonny on Aug 29, 2012 23:46:43 GMT -5
The more I get into my 65 compact the worse things seem to be getting. When I bought it I thought I would just have to replace the ceiling around the leaking vent. Now I have removed all the interior cabinetry except for the galley cabinet. I'm afraid if I take that out the whole trailer will just collapse.
My next step - tomorrow - will be to remove the wall and ceiling paneling from the galley back to the rear end and try to get an idea of the true extent of rot damage.
having just taken out the settee bases I can now push the wall and see it separating from the floor. I think I am at least going to have to remove the bottom section of siding.
I need to know if the lower section can be removed at the joint or is the joint permanent.
Has anyone taken that lower section off and re installed it or will I have to bend it up and some how hold it there while I cut out the framing and replace it?
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Post by dawgpound on Aug 30, 2012 6:25:26 GMT -5
The siding is put on from the bottom piece and then to the top. I would first peel up the bottom edge and check it out. You should be able to make the necessary repairs to the base of the wall or replace the edge framing of the floor. This is what I had to do on our Starflyte. Attachments:
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Post by capnjonny on Aug 30, 2012 15:34:41 GMT -5
Just finished removing the door, street side window, j molding and lower exterior aluminum from my 65 compact.
In my case the upper siding was installed first and staples to the framing at the bottom. Then the lower panel is slid up into the folded Z edge of the upper panel. Possibly a small bead of caulking where the lower panel slides into the upper( or could have just been paint.
A couple of observations
The caulking at thej molding looks to have been a 1/2" strip of butyl tape. I think that wasn't wide enough . I'm thinking it should be as wide as the j mold itself. So far 2 corners almost completely rotted. I doubt they were properly sealed during assembly .
Tools I used
6 in one tool - like a putty knife but with a number of different edges and stiffer.
Side cutters to cut the staples and pull them out.
Flat bar for long reach to get at some staples that were in the middle of a panel
Electric screw driver for removing most screws.
Sharp drywall knife for digging paint out of Phillips screws.
Small drill bit to drill out the paint at the bottom of Phillips screws.
Phillips screw driver and hammer.Put driver in screw and tap end with hammer. Loosens screws and also helps seat the screw driver in the screw.
plastic baggies and 3m blue masking tape . Bag all small parts and tape them to the large parts they came from.
There is also some termite damage to the framing. The stud at the left of the door is 80% Swiss cheese.
Next is probably going to be removing skin at rear so that I can completely replace the rear corner framing.
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Post by timandbrenda on Sept 12, 2012 19:54:25 GMT -5
How thick is the outer plywood under the skin? I have a 1972 Travel Mate and there is rot from the bottom to just above the floor line. maybe 6 to 10 inches in places. Can I cut outthe bad and replace it with the skin up?
Tim
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Post by dawgpound on Sept 12, 2012 20:39:47 GMT -5
On our Starflyte, it was 3/4", same as the wall framing. So should be able to "Cut & Patch", just match the thickness as close as possible. Plywood thickness have shrunk over the years. What was a true 3/4" is now less a 1/16".
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