alternate framing material

[capnjonny]

I have started peeling back the skin on my 65 compact.

Has anyone used any alternate framing material?

Especially at the very bottom of the frame where it is exposed to water and thus likely to rot , I have thought of using Starboard, a high density plastic. It comes in 3/4" thickness and is impervious to rot. I have used it on a boat and know it holds screws well.

It is pretty expensive but would keep the bottom of the walls from rotting.

Any other suggestions?

Has anyone coated the bottom boards with penetrating epoxy?

I have also thought of adding another 1X frame to the inside of the existing walls so I could put in 1 1/2" rigid foam insulation.

I am probably going to gut the interior completely anyhow and the loss of 1 1/2 " of interior doesn't particularly bother me.

[dawgpound]

Anytime I replace rotted floor framing, I use treated 2 X's. I also use roofing tar and coat the new pieces, if there isn't a belly pan.

[capnjonny]

I called around about Starboard - about $15-20 per sq ft x 3/4"

Remembered that there is a composite decking available. bought (2) 5 1/4 x 1" x 8' boards for $36. I will rip them to 13/16" x about 2" to replace the 1x that runns around the bottom of the walls. That is the piece that rots most. Also will cut a piece to go behind skin at wheel wells. That should keep the bottom of the walls from rotting.

While stripping the street side wall I saw that the wall was built with interior paneling going all the way to the bottom of the frame. They probably built the wall on a jig. Frame first then layed 1/2" fiberglass insulation over frame then nailed the paneling over that. Then they stood the whole wall up and nailed through the framing and paneling into the wood frame under the floor.

This method would be impossible to duplicate unless the trailer was stripped of all the superstructure and you started from the frame up.

What I am going to do is install the bottom composite board then frame up a new wall to a pattern I made from 1/4" particle board. I will stand up the frame and screw into the wood underfloor but without the paneling.

I am framing the side walls in 2 sections each side.

I will frame the rear of the trailer first then the front end. I am going to have to be careful to brace the walls and ceiling so I can keep them parallel and square. I now realize that in order for the exterior skin to fit I am going to have to be very careful about keeping everything the same as before. Actually , because I am going to frame with 13/16" poplar but without the 1/4" paneling the exterior will be slightly narrower , about 3/16" ea side. Hopefully that will allow me to bend the flange down a bit more over the sides. In some places it now is less than 1/2" and apparently wasn't sealed when built.

I am probably going to add another 13/16 frame inside the exterior framing so I can add more insulation and also to give a good ledge for the roof framing to sit on. Also, since the paneling won't be attached to the frame as before I will be able to screw the framing to the top of the floor and the paneling to it .

on another note I bought some 3/4"narrow crown staples (5000) to use throughout the trailer. About $45. no more rusty staples.

Everything is a mess at this point . Should have started the process sooner. Hope it doesn't rain on me before I get it weather tight.

[capnjonny]

make that stainless staples.