Post by universalexports on Sept 24, 2012 16:57:44 GMT -5
well I had my first try at laying down shellac today
what I done bought a can of Bullseye amber shellac i mixed it with denatured alcohol from what I understand the canned stuff is a 3 cut, and I wanted to work with a 1 cut so mixed it 2 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part shellac.
cut up cotton T-shirt, made a application pad. (folded up piece wrapped in another piece.
then wiped it on my board using long strokes. I put 8-10 coats on it. it, with it this thin there are no bubbles or runs. (I found vids on youtube)
it turned out great except I have light and dark lines in places where the wood was not perfectly flat (high and low spots). I'll probably go over it with a coat of polyurethane for a nice shine.
so what do you suggest I do, sand it down and try and take off the high spots? and reapply some shellac.
here is a pic the jar in the middle was full to the top (24 oz) when I started. so I used about 8 ounces.
Post by dawgpound on Sept 24, 2012 17:56:39 GMT -5
When I restore damaged antique furniture tops, I usually will "Pad" a new finish on. I admire people who are willing to try this process.
From what I can tell from the problems in the last picture, it won't matter if you sand it down and start again. The problem is in the wood. The lighter shades are where the plywood is higher (the peaks) and has been sanded very well. The darker areas (the valleys) are still open and coarse, thus taking the amber shellac in more. If you were to have stained it prior to padding on a finish, you would still have the same issues.
When you were padding on the shellac, did you apply all 8-10 coats on at once....one right after the other? Did you allow any dry time in between coats. When you applied the shellac to the pad, did you evenly disburse it over the entire pad? I usually will do this by patting the pad into the palm of my hand, while rotating the pad as I am patting it, in order to get good disbursement.
Also, don't over load the pad with shellac. This is where the patting comes in. The minute you allow a soaking wet pad to come into contact with the newly applied finish, it will instantly melt the older finish. This will cause the color and finish to be melted away faster on the higher peaks of the wood, thus the peaks loose their color and the valleys get darker.
One more thing, you don't need to cut the Bullseye shellac that is already pre-mixed. "Cutting" really refers to using Shellac Flakes and Denatured Alcohol.
Post by universalexports on Sept 24, 2012 18:07:30 GMT -5
yeah it was evenly dispersed on the pad, dont think that was the problem since I went with the grain with my strokes and the high/low spots are actually across the grain.
I applied one coat right after the other, I think I will let it dry a bit and then try adding a couple of coats with dry time between them.
I know the bullseye doesnt need cutting but I wanted a thinner mixture, such as a 1 cut. most of the stuff I read on line people use a 1 or 2 cut when working with shellac. but most use the Flakes and mix it to their liking, after some online research I found you can cut the can of bullseye that comes in a 3 cut down to a 1 cut or 2 cut, I know it's true I read it on the internet LOL
Post by universalexports on Sept 24, 2012 19:24:40 GMT -5
Thanks, I just added 2 more coats with about 5-6 minutes dry time between coats, and it looks a lot better, with it so thin it dries really quick. I found some 1/4 inch birch today at Rideout lumber, $15.00 a sheet, but lots of small knotholes, well not so much knotholes but small black semi-knotholes. but it did look smoother than the stuff from Lowes.
Post by universalexports on Sept 27, 2012 17:36:53 GMT -5
well Ross you were exactly right, it would not matter if I sanded it down and started again, all that done was remove all the shellac from the high areas, I sanded a while on it with 100 grit, and realized it was a lost cause.
so time for round two with a new piece, I got it cut out today and sanded down VERY well, I think it will turn out better, my openings are 2 inches shorter lenghwise than the original, this is by design as I have a plan.
Post by universalexports on Sept 30, 2012 15:14:30 GMT -5
well I got it urethaned today,
after that I sanded with 1000 then 2000 grit, then took a buffer and some Maguires machine glaze to it, then 2 coats of car wax, it looks deep clear and lots of fire in the wood, to bad I cant seem to really capture it with the camera in my phone.