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Post by scrawny on Jun 2, 2010 0:14:22 GMT -5
Does anyone have any ideas on a better way to install the front side windows. On mine the original windows were just floating behind the metal. Of course everything under them was rotten. Not a good way to install a window. Trying to think of a better solution to this. Any input of thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by rkymtnman on Jun 2, 2010 9:00:41 GMT -5
May not want to hear this but....
I'd pull the skin back and reframe it all with new wood if what is there is rotted. The danger is (as I found out...) by pulling the skin back you may find far more than you bargained for. I did this and ended up reframing 95% of mine. Also removing the old framing can be fun since it was glued (at least on mine it was...) to the interior wood paneling. I am a "fix it once" type guy thought so for what it is worth, my 2 cents......
Edit: just reread your post and may have misunderstood your question. I reframed with quite a bit of pressure treated wood to help combat any future leaks and put a coat of Kilz primer on everything for the same reason. Hope this helps.
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montanablue
100 Post Member
Pearl the Wonder Cat
Posts: 127
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Post by montanablue on Jun 4, 2010 20:30:53 GMT -5
Yesterday I installed both front side dinette windows. I decided to install a little different. I installed the Vintage Trailer Supply seals first then layered them with butyl putty. I mounted the glass and install the wood stops applying pressure against the glass and putty. On the outside I only installed a few screws every 6 to 8 inches. I plan to come back in a few days and install all of the screws after the putty soften up. I hope this will seal them up a lot better than using just the VTS seal gasket. A picture is attached. Rick Attachments:
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montanablue
100 Post Member
Pearl the Wonder Cat
Posts: 127
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Post by montanablue on Jun 4, 2010 20:33:26 GMT -5
Here is another picture. Rick Attachments:
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jun 17, 2010 12:31:07 GMT -5
Hey montana, thanks for posting your solution. I was just about to reseal mine as well, (the original way) but after seeing what you did Im going to go this route
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montanablue
100 Post Member
Pearl the Wonder Cat
Posts: 127
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Post by montanablue on Jun 17, 2010 15:02:32 GMT -5
B.Tal, Glad that helps. Let me know what you think after you do it. I keep checking my windows and it looks very tight. A friend suggested sealing over the tape and VTS seal with a self leveling silicone. Maybe he was thinking about the water puddling up at the tape/ seal area. The silicone might put a little lip so the water will run off. Just a thought. I have too much time and energy invested to have to do it again. What do you think? Or others?
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jun 17, 2010 22:20:41 GMT -5
montana, My thought was that the pressure of the remaining screws would squeeze the butyl out enough to create a little bulged bead of tape. Is that what happens? Is there enough tape to shave an angle to keep water from settling like on old window glazing? or maybe just leave the bead if its not to fugly. Im just glad you're doin it first .lol Keep us posted
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Post by egorspyle65 on Jun 19, 2010 1:40:03 GMT -5
Is this the same as replacing a rear window in a 71 1500. Mine is broke and im having it replaced next week and just wanna make sure we do it right. Do not want any leaks that for sure.
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Post by egorspyle65 on Jun 19, 2010 11:46:25 GMT -5
So how does the glass come out of and go back in the frame?
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