Re-install Door & Utility Door Trim

[Hugh Currin]

I just reviewed the threads here and didn't see this addressed. On our 1955 Shasta there are light L section trim pieces around the door and utility door. These overlap the aluminum skin and are attached to the framing along the door edge. There are no fasteners holding the flange of the L to the skin. The same is true for the doors themselves.

When we took it apart no seal was found between these flanges and the skin. There is no room for butyl tape but a small bead of sealant seems appropriate. I'm thinking a little polyurethane sealant (link Tempro 635 from VTS)?

What have others done in reassembling these joints?

Thank you all for your assistance.

[vikx]

I use Tacky Tape (brand name) . It is 1/16 x 1/2", perfect for this application.

[Hugh Currin]

I found a related thread at:
vintageshasta.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=doors&action=display&thread=1657
but didn't see a definitive conclusion.

vikx idea of tape seems like the right direction. Using a liquid sealant would require holding the frame in place until the sealant sets. A tape would be easier. But a very thin tape so as not to push the flashing away from the skin.

I looked for Tacky Tape and first found Terrifically Tacky Tape which is for craft use. I then found a Tacky Tape for construction from Schnee Morehead (http://www.schneemorehead.com/products/complete.asp). Their SM5227 is for our application? However, I couldn't find any less than 3/32" (tenth of an inch) thickness. I think this would push the frame too far away from the skin. Thoughts? vikx, do you have a source for 1/16"?

The SM5227 is a thin butyl tape, I suspect very sticky. I found what looks like a similar product from CR Lawrence.
www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=2673&GroupID=1267&History=39324:330:1198:1261&ModelID=1267
This seems to be fairly common (well not at all common in our small town but on the Internet yes) coming in 1/32 and 1/16 thicknesses and 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 width. I found a source through Amazon
www.amazon.com/CRL-32-Sealant-Tape/dp/B001G12RF8
at $25 for a 100' roll.

I thought I'd ask for opinions before ordering a roll. Vikx, does this seem equivalent to Tacky Tape? I think the 1/32 would work better than the 1/16? Vikx used 1/16 and since he's done this I question my picking 1/32.

Please give me your opinions, I'll report back how it goes.

Thanks in advance.

[vikx]

I bought Tacky Tape at the local roofing supply; name has an R in a circle as in Registered. It was sold as 1/2 x 1/16 but could have been thicker. It is sticky but not super sticky; grey/tan in color. If you want it narrower, it is easy enough to stretch. Love the stuff. I use it behind the rubber window back frame gasket as well.

The black window tape is extremely sticky and grabs right NOW. If you use it, spray with window cleaner before installation to enable adjustments. I tried it on a window with no spray; ugh. Not sure how it will work on aluminum to aluminum, but be prepared for the stick.

I did a search on Tacky Tape and didn't come up with a lot.

Here's a link: www.schneemorehead.com/pdf-sm/sm5227tds.pdf It's made for sealing metal seams on a roof, I think...

[oldcarbuff]

I believe I would want something which would provide the best in weather sealing. 3M makes a product used in automobile assembly. It is able to be painted and remains flexible to keep out the elements. Drip Check adhesive by 3M Go to an autobody supplier.

[Gone Kayaking]

wish I hadn't painted!! I just put a really thin bead of gutter seal behind mine (hopefully it will come apart if I need it to!) and then a thin bead of trempro around the edges.

[Hugh Currin]

Well, after some though, I used Trempro polyurethane caulk. The trim fits well enough to stay put during set-up. It seemed to go together well and seal. Won't know for sure, probably forever, but it's what I decided to use.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

[shempnbunny]

1/16 x 1/2 Buytyl tape avail
elixirind.com/product/coatings/putty-and-butyl-tapes