Post by sterrell04 on Jan 23, 2013 13:41:55 GMT -5
Hello all. New RV'er here with new project compact and loving this site for all my restoration questions!
I would love if someone could just breakdown (with schematic) the simplest setup for wiring a 30 amp inlet to send power to a few outlets and some electric wall lamps. I can monitor the appliance use to not overload the 30 amp limits, but I just need to know how to get started with the wiring.
In general, should wiring go from inlet to breaker box to outlets? If so, are multiple breakers needed for the individual outlets? Also, what recommendations for each component (make/model/online shop.. etc.) would you have?
Again, I would love something as basic as possible, so I can focus my attention on other areas of concern (ie. plumbing is next). If anyone has rewired a very basic setup, please let me know how the process went.
Post by universalexports on Jan 23, 2013 16:09:28 GMT -5
DISCLAMER: I am still leaning electrical myself but my thoughts are yes that is right (from inlet to breaker box to outlets), you can have as many breakers as you want, the issue is not to overload the wire, ie. 14-2 wire will handle 15 amps, so you dont want a 20 amp breaker with 14-2 wire, you would want 15 or less, I would prefer less. and you also would not want to plug anything in like an electric hot plate that will pull more than 15 amps ito an outlet wired in 14-2 wire. you would want 12-2 or 10-2 wire.
so you need to figure out how many amps each item that is pluged into each outlet is drawing, then use wire and matching breakers to match it. Like an AC unit pulls 5-6 amps, a TV 2 amps etc, you can figure amps if you know volts (110) and wattage, a google seach will tell you how to calculate it (Volts x watts = amps) or somthing like that, I forget.
Post by universalexports on Jan 23, 2013 16:21:21 GMT -5
or just run 12-2 wire throughout, 12-2 wire will handle 20 amps, know depending what kind of appliances you are running you may need a breaker per wire, if you are running something that is close to 20 amps, but keep in mind you are limited to 30 amps max. so if you have a big high amd draw item, you can wire a specific setup for it., or just run 12-2 wire everywhere and run 2 15 amp breakers, lots of ways to do it.
Post by sterrell04 on Jan 23, 2013 18:30:03 GMT -5
Thanks for some confirmation. It's been quite a plethora of information I've been sorting through, and I don't want to over think this. I like the idea of breaking it down into two 15 amp breakers (one towards kitchen appliances and one towards a/c) and using 12-2 throughout. Do you (or anyone following) have any preferences for a particular inlet, breaker box, breakers, wire, wall outlets, etc.?
Post by sterrell04 on Jan 24, 2013 20:48:29 GMT -5
Thanks, Vikx. I'm just now peeling skin, but I'll be tackling this area in the upcoming weeks. I might have some more questions once the electrical fun begins.
For now, one last one: Once wired out from the breaker box, is there rule on how much splicing can be done? My thought is that I'll do two 15 amp breakers in the box, and then I'll splice each once with one direction going to two individual outlets and the other going to one outlet and a light fixture. Would this work schematically?
Thanks again... and I'll probably be inquiring more in near future.
Post by sterrell04 on Jan 24, 2013 20:58:23 GMT -5
Oh, and thanks for the pictures. They're very helpful. Can you give me some insight on the incoming line that is pictured? Is it just 10/2 (black, green, white) wire that is in a rubber-looking containment, or am I missing something?
Just a suggestion but I like to buy the 30 amp cord with the RV Plug already on the end. It's a molded type thing and you don't have to worry about screw connections coming loose. You can get them anywhere that sells RV stuff. VTS doesn't seem to have them. I get mine at Hemet Trailer Supply in Hemet, Cal... I used one for the Deville which has an AC unit and it worked great.
Last Edit: Jan 24, 2013 21:12:26 GMT -5 by mobiltec
God grant me the strength to restore the trailers I can,
The courage to strip the parts from the trailers I can't,
And the wisdom to know the difference.
There National Electric Code does designate how many fixtures can be on one circuit. (that would be receptacles or plug-ins, lights, switches, etc) It isn't super important in a little trailer, since there's not a lot of room to add too many boxes. Each box is used for a fixture and as a junction box to go to the next in line. The number of wires allowed in each box is limited according to size as well. Again, not a real issue in our little trailers...
Consider this for your circuits: 1. 15 amp; this is the original trailer circuit. 2. 15 amp; added plugs. Possibly for a dorm fridge, in the dinette, bed side of the K cabinet 3. 20 amp; in the kitchen area for appliances, I use it for an outside plug as well.
Build the system as a 30 amp system. A 15 amp inlet limits the total use but allows for upgrading later. The inlet pictured above was used for the vintage "look" and the owner knows to limit her use accordingly.
The cord from the inlet was 10/2 with ground. Bought by the foot, it is used for extension cords. I like the look and flexibility.
If and when you decide to upgrade to 30 amp, everything is ready to go.
Post by sterrell04 on Mar 18, 2013 17:11:55 GMT -5
Thanks again. I just did some work with the electrical, and it went pretty well from what I can gather.
Vikx, can you tell me if that "jumper loop" between lugs is just a hot, black wire or is it something else I need to get? Also, do you just take that larger ground wire down through your floor and connect to trailer?
The jumper loop should be 10 gauge and yes, it is a "hot" wire connecting the two lugs. That allows the breakers on both sides of the hot bar to work. (if it's wired 220, then each lug gets a hot wire)
Your box should have a "ground bar" in it; a little bar with screws to anchor the ground wires. One wire is a solid copper 10 gauge that goes down to the trailer frame, yes. The main wire ground (either green or solid copper, depending on the type of wire) connects at the ground bar as well as each circuit ground. (solid copper wires)
There is a second bar in the box, it is the neutral, or common bar. All the white wires connect to the neutral bar. It is isolated from the grounds. Never connect the neutrals and grounds in a trailer.
Post by sterrell04 on Mar 19, 2013 16:44:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the confirmation. Can you look at this picture? In my box, there was the regular circuit w/ lugs and an extra bar running vertical next to it with lugs. There wasn't a third bar. Was I correct to assume that the vertical bar with those lugs is neutral (all the whites)? I added the ground bar to the far right. If the vertical bar is neutral, do I need something going to the lugs or just the bar? Anything else that looks out of place?
(picture seems rotated)
Last Edit: Mar 19, 2013 16:46:46 GMT -5 by sterrell04
It looks correct to me; I'm assuming the large lug with the two white wires is connected to the neutral bar? If so, both lugs and the bar are fine for the white wires.
Since the bar is isolated (not grounded) from the box, it was meant for the neutral white wires. Some of these old boxes had a single lug for all the grounds. I like the fact that you added the ground bar.