Post by tigertom22 on Jan 28, 2013 16:58:18 GMT -5
I need to rip out the front window in my 67 starflyte as it is leaking. I understand it is best to do from outside in. Could someone walk me through the steps at a high level to accomplish this? I am concerned after I get it out getting it back in will be tough!
Removal is really quite straightforward. There are a number of screws all around the outer edge of the frame of the window which need to be removed. I think it that year model, they may be the hex head type screws. That seems simple enough but, rot and rust can weaken the heads of the screws, so a nut-driver or socket can easily let go, or round off the heads. I used a 1/4-inch Craftsman combo wrench to start the screws out, and if they were too stubborn for that method, a pair of small vice grips usually provided the right amount of persuasion. I think the Starflyte also had the rock guard on the front window, and that will need to be disconnected as well. The lifts for it should separate, and the mounts are held to the front in much the same screwed-on manner. It's likely the lifts should also be removed and replaced with the rest of the unit. Once the lifts are cleared, there may be a screw at either end of the track that needs removing, then the whole guard should side out the end of the track, and out of the way. You should be able to remove all the screws at once from around the window. It won't fall out of the opening, as it is held in by putty tape. The best way I have found to loosen it is to use a putty knife and carefully slice between the frame ad the skin of the trailer. Once the putty is loose, the window lifts out as a whole unit.
While the whole unit is out is a good time to check the seals around the jalousie panels (or awning panels, whichever type of window) for need of replacing. Cleaning and loosening up the joints in the opening levers is best done now too. The old putty has to be removed as cleanly as possible from the window unit frame and around the rough opening aluminum.
Replacing the unit is not that difficult, assuming there isn't any rot in the frame which seats the window. Of course if rot is evident around the window it is likely you will find more of it down lower. (Refer to Rules of Plumbing, rule #2, "S**t runs downhill".) The re-install requires installing new putty tape around the perimeter of the rough opening, new stainless screws are highly desirable, and many like to use a sealant in the screw holes before replacing the screws, so there isn't any water infiltration around the new screws in the old holes. Set the window unit into the rough opening, line up the screw holes, and carefully re-torque the screws to seat it in the putty. When it seats it should squeeze the putty tape out around the edges and this can easily be trimmed back with a utility knife.
This is a rather simplistic approach that I have outlined, and I am sure there are others that have more clues than I have given, but this is the preferred alternative to "ripping out".
Last Edit: Feb 17, 2013 16:44:48 GMT -5 by Deleted