Post by universalexports on Jun 1, 2013 15:50:38 GMT -5
I dont think,,, my threshold has about a half inch lip,I could just adjust one side of the lip (trim it off), or run the new floor and VCT tiles under the threshold as well, and just raise it up a bit.
Post by schweetcruisers on Jun 1, 2013 17:30:10 GMT -5
Can I make a suggestion to you? Since your not replacing the floor, Mobiltec has suggested that the old Celotex packs out and creates a floating frame, since the bolts are no longer in contact with plywood. I would suggest you located and replace the carriage bolts and then run the bolts through old layers and the new plywood.
Post by schweetcruisers on Jun 1, 2013 17:41:54 GMT -5
Celotex is the black fiber material Shasta used under the plywood, it compresses(packs out) under pressure of the floor. When it was new it was 1/2" thick but where the frame and support rails are it's probably 1/4-5/16' thick, allowing the bolts to float.
Yep... But you will find another problem there as well. The carriage bolts stick up. So anywhere that is exposed to view in the main traffic areas I would sink the bolts down so that they are flush with the top of the surface the new floor material is going to go on. Then smooth it over with water putty. If you are doing the entire trailer with cabinets out, put the bolts in over the new flooring material where ever they are hidden under seats, bed and cabinets. And use lock washers underneath. To get the old bolts out, you may have to use a hack saw underneath. Very heavy rust under there usually. I used my sawzall. To sink the top of the bolts down a bit you can use a hole saw slightly larger than the bolt head and only go deep enough to make the head set down into the plywood. Be carefull not to go all the way through the old floor and plywood. I need to do a video on just that. My future videos are going to be zooming in on little areas of concern like this one.
Next time I do a Shasta that has the cellotex sub floor I'm going to tear it all out and replace with 3/4 inch solid plywood.
God grant me the strength to restore the trailers I can,
The courage to strip the parts from the trailers I can't,
And the wisdom to know the difference.
Post by universalexports on Jun 5, 2013 16:46:48 GMT -5
thanks mobiltec, that shouldn't be a problem, I will be building the galley on one side, bunk beds on the other, so i should be able to put the carriage bolts under them. where I cant (up front) I wil grind the heads down to about 1/8 inch then countersink them and 1/8th inch so the head will be just a bit below the surface of the 1/4 inch wood.
Just a thought instead of carrage bolts with the domed head they make a bolt with a slightly larger diameter head but flat and thinner for this type of use I can't think of their name but am sure your supplier can tell you if you ask. another thought would use screws like they fasten the flooring down in semi trailers they self drill and tap into the metal then draw down into the wood. They are smaller but you could use more and you might want to pre drill to make them easier to install with normal tools. You might use lock nuts instead instead of lock washers then if the flooring compacts at all they won't back off like a lock washer would allow.