Dry weight should be around 2,600 lbs according to specs, but I haven't weighed ours. With that big of a camper it is possible to put another 1,000 pounds between gear, food, LP tanks, battery, and water. So assume around 3,600 loaded. That would need a class III. Don't skimp and try to get away with a class II because the tongue weight could also be a problem when you load the trailer. Remeber the loaded weight when buying wheels and tires.
They came with electric trailer brakes so you will need a controller for your tow vehicle if the brakes are working or once they are working. I believe they are the same as the dexter trailer brakes sold at Northern Tools. I would also recommned spending the extra $40 or so bucks and getting a friction sway control.
I tow ours with a F350 rated to tow 10,000 pounds and have trailer rated tires. I've been towing for 20 years and it occasionally sways even with cautious driving. I don't have the sway control yet but plan to add it this summer or winter.
Do you think we could use a Class II as a temporary (dry, unloaded) just to pick it up and pull it home for a 10 hour drive?
The only problem I can see with that could be tongue weight. You need enough to reduce sway but not more than its rates for. I think the rule of thumb is approx 15% of the total weight for tongue weight and adjust accordingly from there.
If my math is right 15% of 2600 is 390, but I don't think Deluxes have that much tongue weight. My guess is around 280-300 unloaded, but that's a guess.
You might be able to do it if you had a friction sway control installed, but I would also be concerned about the vehicle ratings. What's the tow vehicle?
Post by schweetcruisers on Jun 5, 2013 21:58:32 GMT -5
You should read your owners manual, that is going to be the best source of info, the important thing is don't go over your manufacturer's ratings. Even if you are able to pull the trailer and doesn't rip that class II off your car, YOU STILL HAVE TO STOP IT!