Help! Setting up charging system off my running lights

[Shastaholics]

Hi all,
on my 68 loflyte,
I am trying to set up a system to charge my camper battery while driving. Instead of going the isolator route, I tied into the running lights, this is a four wire system.....PROBLEM IS THE CAMPER BATTERY IS POWERING MY CAMPER RUNNING LIGHTS AND THE PLUG INTO THE BACK OF MY TRUCK IS LIGHTING UP. Once I thought about it, it makes perfect sense that this would happen because now the camper battery is the power source.....

My question is, WILL I BLOW SOMETHING IN MY TRUCK OR IS THE BATTERY WIRED IN "PARALLEL" with the running lights. Also, I guess a toggle switch would take care of cutting power to the camper running lights from the battery?? The main question is will I blow something in my truck with this set up??
Thanks all!

[bigbill]

Install a diode in the wire so that it can't back fed. A properly installed diode will allow current to flow to the battery but won't allow it to flow from the trailer battery back to the lights. Will your tow vehicle light fuse stand the extra load of charging the battery? I always run a seperate wire to charge the camper battery with an auto reset curcuit braker installed near the starting point of that curcuit.

[schweetcruisers]

What wiring harness are you using? 4 Pin flat, 6 pin or 7 blade. The 7 blade has a dedicated 12v circuit you could tap into.

[Shastaholics]

It's a 4 pin

[bigbill]

If you want to try diodes you can buy them at Radio Shack if they don't have a heavy duty 12 volt but a pkg of 3 or what ever and twist them together making sure all marks are pointing the same way and that should work. I think they are less than $5.00 a pack. To make sure they are wired in right just put in line and if light is still on turn them around.

[Shastaholics]

Big Bill and all, Thanks for your input! Am I safe to assume that I would wire the diodes before the 10 guage (to battery) splice I made into the running wire to charge that battery while driving?

[bigbill]

The diodes go between the trailer battery and anything else on your charging wire.

[vikx]

4 way connectors are not used to charge the battery. 4 ways provide tail and marker lights, RT, LT. (both turns activate the brake lights when you push the brake pedal)

Here is the code: White is Ground. Brown is tails and markers (TM) Green is RT and Yellow is LT.

You will need a 7 way connector to charge your battery while on the road. The vehicle must have a charge wire from the battery to supply 12 volts to the 7 way receptacle.

The color code is not the same on a 7 way: White is Ground. Brown is RT, Green is TM and RED is LT. Note the Green/Brown switch.

The 12 volt charge line is usually black; connect to the 7 way in that slot, which is stamped into the plastic. Your trailer battery hot goes to the black as well. Ideally, you would use a Junction Box to keep the connections dry and protected.

Hope this helps. Diodes are not recommended in this instance.

[Bow_Tied]

What I am worried about is how many amps does the battery draw on charge and is the parking light circuit designed to handle this in addition to powering the lamps already in that circuit. This doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

[bigbill]

vikx what he is talking about is trying to charge off the taillight circuit and his lights stay on all the time because of back feed. Also if his battery is low at all he is going to blow the taillight fuse. I raised that thought earlier , but a simple diode will stop the back feed. He is also evidently pulling with no trailer brakes I hope he has a large tow vehicle.

[vikx]

Ah, I see. I'm confused... None the less, I feel a better way to go is with a 7 pole.

[bigbill]

Or a seperate wire for the charging with a auto reset circuit breaker installed at the vehicle starting point. I personally prefer the 7 wire plug allowing for a single connection.