We have had our Shasta for about a month now, and are prepping her for a new shinny paint job! I have a huge Caulk problem. The PO went crazy with Caulk and silicone everywhere. I have taken off all the drip caps and that was not so bad, but I want to take off all Caulk around the drip rail. Any suggestions on how I can do this. Also, the drip rail is in great shape other than it is cover in silicone and Caulk. I want to take it off clean it up and put it back on. Has anyone ever done this? Is it hard to put back on?
It's not very hard to r and r the drip rail. In fact, it's one of the best things you can do for your trailer. The edge is the MAIN leak problem, usually due to to old putty.
Remove the drip rail and cut the worst of the caulk off with a razor blade. Take your time and be patient. You can keep scraping and picking or try some of that expensive "silicone remover". Either way, it's a pain. Check the trim holes and glue toothpicks or dowels if needed so that the screws will "grab".
Put the new putty on the trim, not the trailer. Dab a small amount of gutter seal in each hole just before you re-install the trim. I use a little pick to line up the old holes. Use the same size screws, usually #8 x 1".
Once the trim is attached, use a rubber hammer to seat the trim into the putty. Trim the excess and you will have well sealed edge trim.
Post by Gone Kayaking on Jun 5, 2011 10:49:56 GMT -5
Butyl putty tape. It comes in a roll with a paper backing that peels off as you go. Available at all RV stores. When you do have to use a sealant get one that also is butyl based like vulkem or sikaflex, these stay strong and flex and don't become brittle.
1956 Shasta 1500
Can't wait to go campin'
Missed the above question. The screws can actually be too tight. You don't want a huge dip at each screw. Very snug would be good, with a sufficient amount of putty oozing. The rubber hammer comes in handy to even the snugness (is that a word?) and seat the trim. Sorry for the delay in answering.