B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jun 26, 2011 11:54:38 GMT -5
I have a 63 astrodome. the backing plates were shot ( fabricated my own) and so are the bulb sockets. mine have a 2 bulb setup for each side. wiring is good but I need a source for the sockets...any help?
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Post by Redwings on Jun 26, 2011 13:16:01 GMT -5
I'm not sure if this will work for you or not. We went to NAPA with our backing plates and they were able to order sockets that worked for us. My husband had to fuss around (pinch and hammer) with the rivets to get the sockets to affix back on the backing plate, but it all worked out. And now we can use readily available bulbs in the lights.
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jun 26, 2011 18:52:42 GMT -5
NAPA!!!!! why didnt I think of that. thanks Gina I'll check
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Jun 27, 2011 1:30:13 GMT -5
A couple of different ideas here. The light with the built in reflector came from Wally World-6 bucks. Easier to rivet in place than mount individual sockets... Attachments:
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jun 29, 2011 22:46:31 GMT -5
Thanks viks,
that's what I need, but my bargman 99's have a 2 bulb set up. im not sure if the second bulb is a turn signal or backup? any one have an idea? will this rig work for brake and signal with my wiring? (cant test yet, my harness connect was cut off years ago)
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Jun 30, 2011 2:19:33 GMT -5
The second socket/bulb is a running light. The other bulb has two filaments; one is running lights, the other lights for turns and brakes. A single bulb with the two points will work just fine. VTS will be glad to sell you a pair for 40 bucks...
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jun 30, 2011 21:06:46 GMT -5
I went with the wally world option . worked great vikx, Thanks!
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Jul 1, 2011 1:23:00 GMT -5
Always glad to help. Electrical is one of my favorite fixes...
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jul 1, 2011 9:32:39 GMT -5
Good to know! ok then. you're my designated go to... electrical is my weakness.
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jul 4, 2011 10:06:20 GMT -5
Hey vikx, ok one more question. the wally world setup on the tail lights I used are 2 wire, green/brown. What goes to what from the three wires from the trailer?
Thanks, B.
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Jul 5, 2011 1:30:44 GMT -5
I think you will need to test what the existing trailer wires are... To do that, plug the trailer in and use a test light. One will be clearance and tail lights, probably green on the trailer. The right turn is most likely brown, the left red.
If you have 3 trailer wires at each tail light, it's possible one is a separate clearance light wire. That actually does the same thing as the tail light wire, some trailers were wired with double wires. (probably to run a ceiling light and clearance lights when camping?) Also, the third wire could be ground but most vintage trailers use the skin as ground, no wire.
My Wally lights had a brown wire for clearance (went to green on the trailer) and red for turns. If you put 12 volts to the lights, the brighter one will be the turn.
Hope this helps!
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B.Tal
100 Post Member
"Leola" before rescue
Posts: 142
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Post by B.Tal on Jul 6, 2011 7:44:09 GMT -5
got it. Thanks!
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