alternate to drip rail

[capnjonny]

I am just about ready to attach the drip rail on my 65 compact. All the framing is done and I have re installed the aluminum skin. I have been trying to clean up the old rail. It is kinked in places and at the tight radius-es at the front and back the side with the holes that lays against the side dies not lay flat. ( I have a metal working tool kit with hammers and backing shapes and have been using them but can't get the molding to lay down properly in the corner.

I have contacted a source for new drip rail

www.socalteardrops.com/

but I am having second thoughts about ordering it.

There are about a dozen places where the roof metal that laps over the side is cracked back to the top of the wall and a couple places where it is cracked back onto the roof by 1/8-1/4".

There are also 2 holes in the roof at the edge over the door area that are about 1/4" diameter.

My thinking is that it might work well to have a molding that was L shaped that covered 3/4" to 1" down the side and also the same at the roof .

This is how So Cal Teardrops finishes the joint on their teardrop trailers. The main problem I see with this is bend ing the extrusion around the tight radius. Also I would loose the awning rail.

This would solve the roof holes and also the roof/ wall joint.

Can anyone tell me if this has been tried before and if so what they did?

Jonny

[vikx]

Hi Jonny,

I use waterproofing tape on the underside of the metal to seal splits and cracks. If you can still get under the roofing, I highly recommend it. (Lowes)

If not, Geocel Instant Gutter seal will work. It is great for sealing aluminum and comes in silver/grey:

www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM2287975403P?sid=IDx20110310x00001i&srccode=cii_184425893&cpncode=31-41059880-2

The putty and molding will improve things but the important thing is to seal the metal roofing before installing it. Double protection, if that makes sense.

Hope this helps.