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Post by 62shastacrazymom on Apr 11, 2013 15:08:00 GMT -5
;D Ginger is off and here is the start of her restoration...it will take a steady 3-4 months of working about 4-6 hours a day...so hope blog will be updated weekly! www.gingertrailer.blogspot.com  Thanks! Brooke |
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Post by familyof6 on Apr 11, 2013 16:19:20 GMT -5
I'm following you!!!
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brendaleeoc
100 Post Member
myvintagecamper.blogspot.com
Posts: 118
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Post by brendaleeoc on Apr 13, 2013 8:55:53 GMT -5
YAY! Another blog to follow!  |
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Post by 62shastacrazymom on Apr 14, 2013 2:02:31 GMT -5
thank you! I hope it will be enjoyable, and crw2620 I will be asking you lots of questions along the way....THANKS in advance (no pressure...haha)....Happy Trails! (the theme of Ginger is going to be a retro cowgirl theme...because her PO actually original owner was an 87 year old rodeo cowboy who towed Ginger around the country staying at Rodeos...how cool! He passed away 2 years ago....was an honored and decorated roper and bull rider....I found a rope in the storage area.....so in honor of Frank Dyer Jr......here she goes! (Oh if the walls could talk Frank!)
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Post by 62shastacrazymom on May 1, 2013 1:03:03 GMT -5
I have an update...Ginger is naked now....down to her wheels and chonies (trailer base).....has anyone used POR 15 to seal the trailer after the rust is off? www.gingertrailer.blogspot.com |
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Post by schweetcruisers on May 1, 2013 10:15:15 GMT -5
Por-15 is great, I opted for a cheaper rust paint called Chassis Saver and kinda regret it. Once you put Por-15 on it will stay there forever!
Make sure you or your restorer inspect the frame where it bends to make the "A" and check all the welds that make the boxed section of the "A" also. Shasta only used little 1" welds to make up the boxed section, I ground out the old cracked welds and had a solid bead layed in.
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Post by 62shastacrazymom on May 4, 2013 1:43:45 GMT -5
Por-15 is great, I opted for a cheaper rust paint called Chassis Saver and kinda regret it. Once you put Por-15 on it will stay there forever! Make sure you or your restorer inspect the frame where it bends to make the "A" and check all the welds that make the boxed section of the "A" also. Shasta only used little 1" welds to make up the boxed section, I ground out the old cracked welds and had a solid bead layed in. I actually just got the chassis back today to sandblast and check/redo the welds needed. Funny, before I decided to do a full restore, our neighbor came and welded underneath the box welds that had all come apart. I feel so bad, because it would have been SO MUCH easier for him, now that it is torn down and accessible. The wheel wells are shot so either have to try and find some to replace or have him fabricate some. Thanks for the advice on the A...I will take a look and post some pics this weekend. |
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Post by 62shastacrazymom on May 17, 2013 0:57:00 GMT -5
update! The chassis is completely done, new bumper, not a spot of rust and decided to use truck bed liner instead of POR 15 and shiny black on the new bumper and the tongue. The landing gear is now bright red! It looks like a brand new, safe foundation. I am thrilled. not sure why my pictures arent loading. They are less than 1mb www.gingertrailer.blogspot.com |
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Post by familyof6 on Jun 2, 2013 16:58:39 GMT -5
Hi Brooke,
Great progress on Ginger! How did he install the subfloor on top of the trailer frame? My husband is installing new floor frames right now and likes the idea of installing the subfloor on of the frames by nailing or screwing them into the frames vs using carriage bolts. Any reason why we shouldn't just use nail or screw to install the subfloor? We are using Molbitec's advice and using a 3/4" plywood with a rubberized undercoat.
Thanks!
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Hamlet
2K Post Member
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Post by Hamlet on Jun 2, 2013 21:15:42 GMT -5
Remember how much these little guys bounce around on the road. The carriage bolts are strong enough to hold everything on top of the floor down. Nails or screws wouldn't do that.
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Post by schweetcruisers on Jun 2, 2013 21:49:38 GMT -5
Carriage bolts go through all layers and hold everything together, a nail will pop with changes in the climate or humidity, deck screws will eventually shear. I would recommend using carriage bolts and nylock nuts in their original locations to hold the wood frame to the metal frame(make sure they go through the subfloor) and than use screws to hold the subfloor to the wood frame.
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Post by familyof6 on Jun 2, 2013 21:53:34 GMT -5
Carriage bolts go through all layers and hold everything together, a nail will pop with changes in the climate or humidity, deck screws will eventually shear. I would recommend using carriage bolts and nylock nuts in their original locations to hold the wood frame to the metal frame(make sure they go through the subfloor) and than use screws to hold the subfloor to the wood frame. Schweet, I should of clarified and mention that we did bolt the new wood frame to the metal frame using carriage bolts and my husband wanted to use screws to hold the subfloor to the wood frame using probably 1 1/2 inch screws with wide heads. I didn't know if anyone else had ever attempted this since the original subfloor in our trailer was bolted down to through the wooden frame and the metal frame using carriage bolts. My husband thinks that it will make future floor repairs easier to do. So...are you recommending we still use carriage bolts in the original holes to hold the subfloor down. |
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Post by schweetcruisers on Jun 2, 2013 22:11:53 GMT -5
familyof6-Yes those carriage bolts need to go through the subfloor!
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Post by familyof6 on Jun 2, 2013 22:41:38 GMT -5
familyof6-Yes those carriage bolts need to go through the subfloor! Alrighty, I will share this information with him. Thanks! |
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Post by 62shastacrazymom on Jun 16, 2013 0:54:47 GMT -5
Carriage bolts go through all layers and hold everything together, a nail will pop with changes in the climate or humidity, deck screws will eventually shear. I would recommend using carriage bolts and nylock nuts in their original locations to hold the wood frame to the metal frame(make sure they go through the subfloor) and than use screws to hold the subfloor to the wood frame. Schweet, I should of clarified and mention that we did bolt the new wood frame to the metal frame using carriage bolts and my husband wanted to use screws to hold the subfloor to the wood frame using probably 1 1/2 inch screws with wide heads. I didn't know if anyone else had ever attempted this since the original subfloor in our trailer was bolted down to through the wooden frame and the metal frame using carriage bolts. My husband thinks that it will make future floor repairs easier to do. So...are you recommending we still use carriage bolts in the original holes to hold the subfloor down. I am going to have to ask...its all done now on www.gingertrailer.blogspot.comCant wait for the rest! Brooke |
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Post by 62shastacrazymom on Jun 16, 2013 10:23:35 GMT -5
I posted a second thread about my flooring on accident...just erased it. So, it is done and on the blog now. The curbside wall is going up today. I really wanted red and white checkered flooring, but couldnt find it. The black and white will be fun though.
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Hamlet
2K Post Member
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Post by Hamlet on Jun 16, 2013 15:23:43 GMT -5
Look at Forbo Marmoleum or Johnsonite Harmonium tiles. Johnson makes Marmorette, but I don't think it comes in tiles. In any case they won't be screaming red and white, but linoleum has always been subtle (or not-so-subtle) blends of colors that add a lot of life and warmth (and hide dirt) to the interior of the trailer. We did Hamlet's floor in the Marmoleum, red and white tiles. Here's a link... www.howiseelife.com/blog/2011/06/20/trailer/ The best shot of the floor is about halfway down. My husband even put a heart in for me - it mimics the pattern of the heart-shaped grain on the paneling! |
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Thanks! Brooke
