New gas line test procedure

[rkymtnman]

So I installed entirely new propane lines throughout my camper. I got everything installed, secured, and terminated. As is classic for me - I thought "I was very thorough when I installed these, I can just pressurize the system with the LP Bottle, test for leaks with a bottle of windex and fire up my appliances." (anyone see a Darwin award coming?)

I did this, found a few leaks, fixed them and everything fired up nicely. Check that off the list.

My gut nags at me for 2 days. I kept thinking I didn't test that properly. I could have tested it better. I REALLY do know better.

I finally gave in and bought the fixtures I needed and a pressure gauge. (My Test Procedure)I disconnected the regulator and connected the gauge to the rubber gas line that runs to my copper under the camper. In the back of the camper, I had already installed a "quick connect" for my road trip gas grill. To that, I attached a valve with a pneumatic nipple on each end. One end went into the BBQ connection - the other to the compressor. Charged all gas lines up to 30 psi and found 6 more leaks (using soap and water this time....) - one BIG leak in the manifold of my stove that if went undetected, very likely would have ended with a nice fireball.

I fixed everything last night, plugged all my appliances and charged it to 60 psi and it held that all night. I just reconnected the appliances and kicked it down to 20 psi and will watch that until I leave in 8 hours. It appears I have a leaky valve in my stove so that is out for this trip. Glad I found that....

Bottom line - TEST TEST TEST. Pressurize your system with air and verify it holds this pressure for at least 12 hours, if not 24. This could have been disastrous. I know I feel better after seeing that gauge at 60psi 12 hours after I charged it up.

...correct me if I am wrong but isn't the pressure AFTER the regulator down in the single digits? 60 psi would be serious overkill but I'm happy with it.

I hope my complete idiocy helps someone else. I should have (and do) known better.

Please add in your testing methods here as well. I'm interested now.

[safetybruce]

Good post and good advice. Will try and be as thorough when I get ready to test the gas appliances in my trailers once everything is installed and I think they are ready for use. Thank you for sharing your experience.

[atozzi1400]

I have never done any of this, so I am really curious. how do you test for leaks with a bottle of windex?? or soap and water?

[61shastacompact]

You want to spray any joint or connection with a soapy water solution once the system is pressurized. If there is a leak at a joint, it will bubble the soapy solution where the seal is not quite right. Sometimes a joint just needs to be tighten down a bit more to create a seal.

Jim

[atozzi1400]

wow, so simple! I have some thread tape laying around, if I find any leaks I can just add some of that to make it tighter. Thanks! I have learned so much from this site!!

[61shastacompact]

Copper gas lines should be a flare fitting and should seal without teflon tape. I have read that you should not use the white plumber's teflon tape for gas lines, but there is a yellow teflon tape that is available for use in gas applications.

Jim

[estesdv]

Wow, now im confused. I called the gas company here (Biloxi MS) & was told that I could just do the soap & water test while hooked up to a tank of propane. I asked about a pressure test and they said not to do that because the higher pressures could damage the diaphragms in the system???

[vikx]

Pressure testing works well when done correctly. Yes, high pressures will damage the gas valves; they are designed to operate at 11" w.c. Even un-regulated LP from the tank can cause damage.

A Manometer performs a leak test. Basically, you hook it to one of the stove top burner valves (via a rubber boot) and turn on the propane tank. With the stove knob set to "on", the dial should read 11 inches water column or close. Turn the tank off, and if it holds steady for 15 minutes, the system is tight. Manometers aren't designed to hold forever-they eventually lose pressure.

I always "sniff" and check all fittings with a soap solution too.

Another way to check the system (if you have an auto changeover regulator) is to turn the LP tanks on, the green indicator will show. Turn the tanks off and the green should stay for 30 minutes. If the indicator shows red withing a few minutes, there's a leak...

[Bob]

Here's an interesting 2 minute video on how to test propane pressure.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnlfQK-8qy4