Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Feb 26, 2011 14:27:28 GMT -5
Have read through the forum posts in prep for moving from demo to rebuilding, but haven't found anything related to this question. Hope y'all can help. I took off the flashing that the penultimate PO used to replace the drip rail. The flashing was installed from the skin seam at the top of the rear window down to the bottom on all four sides (but I'm only dealing with the rear for now). Now I'll be able to get in there and more easily replace rotted framing etc... I want to use proper drip rail when I replace. However I would very much like NOT to replace with new skin if I can help it. Problem is the screw holes in the 1 inch corner flashing that was used will protrude beyond the new drip rail edge at least on the sides. Can I even consider using bondo to fill the holes and then seal with vulkem from the inside of the skin before reattaching to the frame? Other ideas? THanks for any assist. Attachments:
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Post by 61shastacompact on Feb 26, 2011 18:55:34 GMT -5
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Post by neilandramona on Feb 26, 2011 20:19:14 GMT -5
i like fiberall you can buy it at napa,Alot better produt than all metal way easier to sand.
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
|
Post by Gone Kayaking on Feb 26, 2011 21:02:08 GMT -5
Thanks. And do you both think that the if I use the filler that will be sufficient so I don't have to replace the skin?
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600
|
Post by Gone Kayaking on Feb 27, 2011 10:59:49 GMT -5
So i'm good on filling the holes I think. BUt I've uncovered now why the po used the flashing. The aluminum panels that go over the back of the trailer are supposed to fold over the sides, correct??
Well not on my baby. In fact they are a 1/8 " or so short of doing even that. I'm guessing that when the po did earlier repair to get the drip rail off they cut right through the skin.
Can someone confirm that I'll need to order new aluminmum skin? And what is the overlap amount? Just shy of the drip rail or the same?
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