Foam board again to block off the front of the air conditioner like was done in prior post. I used plastic electrical boxes and glued them together. As you can see, I mounted it a little high on the door so I had to trim a little off the plate. Otherwise it was hitting the plywood and I couldn't close the door.
The second outlet will be used to run an exhaust fan to push the warm air out of the compartment.
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2010 16:34:36 GMT -5 by 62astro
I used a large cookie sheet for a catch pan. I didn't put a drain in it. I don't know that I would use it long enough (I'm assuming it would take several days) for the pan to fill up, provided the camper is sitting level. I got the pan from our local bakery. Also shown is the divider for the warm air intake and exhaust. Air is drawn in from the sides of the a/c and then blown over the condenser to pull the heat off the tubes. The way I boxed it in, this side is the only place where outside air can be drawn in over the coil to dissipate the heat. I did not attach the a/c to the pan. The 2x4s on top hold it from moving side to side and up and down. I used self adhesive foam on the 2x4's to eliminate rubbing and vibration noise. I used an inner tube between the a/c and pan to eliminate vibration noises, in hindsight I shoud have just used the foam too because it will probably last longer.
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2010 15:41:24 GMT -5 by 62astro
I purchased the fan @ WM and removed the stand. I wrapped the edge of the fan with tubing to prevent vibration noises. The shroud is made out a 3 gallon bucket. Attached the fan to the shroud with zip ties.
This is also the same type of fan I use inside to blow the air up off the floor. The stand fits just right between the wheel well and the front of the bench so the fan is sitting at the same height as where the cold air is discharged.
I initially wrapped the shroud with foam to seal it to the door and force the air out. Later, I removed it from around the shroud and used it to fill the gaps around the shroud. It looks much better, I need to get a picture it.
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2010 16:04:32 GMT -5 by 62astro
The louvers are eave vents. I have since removed them, they seemed too flimsy and restrictive to me, but they are cheap. In our community we have a recycling trailer for metal. I dug through that and found a large louver panel off a residential a/c unit that I cut down to fit, its sturdy and not as restrictive on the air flow. Unfortunately I caulked the the first ones and the second set is slightly smaller so now I need to remove the caulk off the door and touch up the paint.
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2010 16:36:16 GMT -5 by 62astro
I hope this doesn't make too many cringe, it needs to be painted. I wish it had the stained interior, but it was painted long before I became the owner and it is what it is. Someday I may restore it, but for now I'm just glad to use it and get away.
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2010 16:40:07 GMT -5 by 62astro
I covered the 2x4's with a strip of paneling (to the left of the a/c) and painted. I need to get a picture with the fan too. Like I said earlier, it didn't work that great until a fan is put down there to push the air up. If the Hehr window wasn't in the way, you could also make a duct to pull the air off the ceiling down into the intake which would help move the air around too.
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2010 16:42:31 GMT -5 by 62astro
Looks like a good install. On the condensate issue, you are going to flood your camper. My a/c had almost a constant stream of condensate water draining while in use. This was on a 90 degree day at about 80 % humidity. Even if the pan was only 1/2 full, when you start moving the camper, out comes the water. Not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to save you a headache.
Post by LittleVintageTrailer on Jul 4, 2010 0:34:15 GMT -5
Do you all have storage doors on the outside that are big? Because ours on our 68 Compact is only 7 x 11 opening. I measured the inside dimensions to the opening. I'm trying to figure out how we could run a A/C through that door w/o too much complication. Do they even make A/C units small enough to fit in these openings or would you have to cut these bigger?
What would happen if you just sat the unit say on a raised box and had it bumping up against that door? Sounds "jimmy rigged" I know but thinking there wouldn't be such a problem with draining/condensation right since it's not actually sitting inside the compartment? If done this way would it give you some cooling relief inside maybe if you had a fan or two inside to move the air around and hopefully up off the floor level? The one big negative of this would be hauling the A/C until around instead.
That opening is just to small. My neighbor bought home a "self contained" upright a/c unit from BrandSmart the other day, It is something that would be "set" into the camper when needed. Still needs a drain.... He flooded a Freightliner sleeper with it, but was cool.
Haven't been keeping up, but had some time tonight for some follow-up. I didn't put a drain in the pan and it worked fine for the number of days at a time we go camping - usually 3 or 4. A couple of times it was hot, humid Nebraska summer weather. The water collects in the a/c unit and fills that up until it hits the fan in the a/c unit and the fan kicks it up into a mist and it just keeps running like that. This a/c could be a 'dripless' unit, I've heard of those and that must be the way it works? Anyway the cookie sheet never had much, if any water in it. And for cooling it worked fairly well - have to have the rear bed folded up to the couch position for best cooling during the day. You also have to have a fan down by the a/c pushing the cold air up or it doesn't work. On 95+, humid days, if the camper was in the shade it would get down to 75, no shade 80. 80 still felt pretty darn good w/o the humidity. I also purchased a couple of small clip on fans, one to clip on to the back shelf for the back bed and another to push air around the front bunk to keep the kids cool.
I'm still trying to figure out the best way of setting up A/C and possibly mounting a small generator to run it (boon docking). Thought maybe to build a box of sorts on the hitch since we don't use the propane anyway.
The one I put in has a remote - much easier than pushing the buttons. But I just turn it down as cold as it will go and leave it alone. It will get down to 75 - 80 on a hot humid day which feels pretty good.
I agree with you annie. even tho i'm in GA and a/c is a requirement, i don't camp in the summer so i don't want to do something so permanent or so hard. i read somewhere that someone had the idea (and i'll do likewise) to have a low profile window unit stored inside their baggage compartment and when they wanted to use it they would open the baggage door and slide the a/c unit out enough so the condensation drips outside. then they created a duct to vent it under the seat and into the 'room'. sounds like a good plan to me! and then i won't have to carry around during my other 3 seasons of camping.
It really wasn't that hard, once I had all my supplies it took me a weekend to do. I would think mounting it at the baggage door would reduce its efficiency more than a permanent mount under the bed and making duct work would be more work each time you need it, but maybe not. We've been lucky so far this year and haven't needed to turn it on. I think another thing that needs to be done is a duct needs to be made so the hot air at the ceiling is pulled through the a/c, not the cold air off the floor. The problem is figuring out a way to do that w/o making it look terrible. The Hehr window is in the way and when the bed is pulled out it comes up to the sink cabinet. So it would have to bend around the window and the bed would need a notch in it. I don't know how large of a duct would be needed so the a/c would get proper air flow.