how to replace wall boards?? got ???

[universalexports]

so I tore into the walls a bit today, under the curb side window, and I got lots of rot, boards not even connected,

I have searched and seen pics of people replacing the boards from the inside with the outer walls still on, and I have seen pics with the outer walls removed and replacing the wood that way.

is there a preferred method? from inside or outside? or a "how to" somewhere?

thanks in advance.

[Redwings]

We have restored two trailers and both times went from the outside in. This was mostly because the inner walls and cabinets were in good shape and didn't have to be replaced. We found our rot after we removed the windows and then found it easy to remove the back and lower side skins. We then reframed from the outside.

That said, if my *next* trailer has inside walls in bad shape I would be tempted to demo them and work from the inside out. That way you are less prone to bend or crimp the fragile aluminum skin. But you have to be real good at precision cutting the inner wall sections.

I'm interested to hear what other people have to say.

[Atomic Addiction]

I think this will be a mostly framing Q and A so I have moved it here.

Stop where you re first. Don't rip any more out. I am doing a lower skin off resto. I would suggest that. It really doesnt hurt. You can see how far down the water damage goes. There are framing pieces that I would have not been able to access if I had not pulled the skin.

I say stop because you can screw yourself ripping stuff out. Once you pull the skin you can start to see how much materials you will need. Go get your 1x2s and 1x4s. I measured and took pictures of everything before I removed any framing. If you can you want to retain as much as possible or you might as well take everything apart and start from a bare frame but that is a whole different sort of restoration.

I used a Dremel MutiMax with their wood cut attachment to cut out the rotted stuff. The panels are nailed from the inside but you can work a pry bar between the panel and the framing and pop out the nails.

I only cut out as little as I had to in each section meaning I didn't rip out all of the rot because you will run into problems with sagging and the skins wont fit back on right.

Just cut as much as you need to and cut new wood to fit. Then tie it back in to the exsisting framing with your Kreg jig. You have one of those right? ;D If not...get one. It is awesome.

Start on one area and work your way around the trailer. If you get to an area that really doesn't have a ton of framing (like the area under the front window and corners) you might want to use a few boards going up and supportin the area above the window. You can use something like a floor jack so it gives a bit of pressure upward. Just don't go crazy with it. See. My from corners, framing, and panels were all rotted out. Even though I was carful to only do small sections at a time to avoid any movement when I cut out the exsisting framing it still moved on me. There isnt a ton of wood up there and the upper started to sag a bit. The fact that the interior ply was paper thin And rotten didn't help the situation. Just take your time and it will work out.

Then you can go in and start to remove interior panels that are rotted. Try to keep them intact so you can use them for a template on the new panels. Otherwise you will have to fudge the new panels without any help from the old stuff. It can be a pain in at the a$$ trying too match up an new panel to a curve when the old panel just sort of fell apart. It is just easier to lay the old one on the new one and trace.

The advantage of the inside out approch is that the skin is there to give you a guide to reframe. But like I said there was rot that I would not have seen the bottom if I didn't take off my lower skins. Then you would be just trying to screw into nothing but rot.

I hope I have explained this well enough. I just prefer the skin off method myself.

Brian

[universalexports]

thanks, that gives me a plan of attack, and yes I ordered my Craig jr a couple days ago, should be here soon.

[Atomic Addiction]

Good deal. Get yourself a big box of the 1-1/4" screws. You will end up going through more than you think you will.

Brian

[universalexports]

fine thread right? and curse thread for plywood, it seems thats what I read here.

[Atomic Addiction]

Nope. I used coarse. Fine is for hard woods. Pine (which is what you will probably use) needs a coarse because it is a soft wood. It needs coarse to bite.

If you set your depth right it shouldn't spit. It happens every once and a while but don't go crazy and you should be fine.

www.kregtool.com/PocketHole-Screws-and-Plugs-Prodlist.html

Brian