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Post by Atomic Addiction on Sept 16, 2009 1:09:06 GMT -5
Anyone have a technique for repairing hairline cracks?
I have a hairline crack in the aluminum above the entrance door. My thought was that I may remove the birch panel above the door because of some water damage from that crack. Then fill that area with Vulkem and sandwich that with a piece of aluminum. I can then rivet the exterior skin and the inner patch of aluminum together. You would be able to see the rivets from the outside but it wouldn't be all that bad.
Another option would be to make a patch panel and attach it to the outside. The door drip rail would sit on top of it so maybe it wouldn't be so noticeable when all painted.
Any thoughts on this?
Brian
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Post by dawgpound on Sept 16, 2009 7:02:06 GMT -5
Hey Brian,
I would use JB Weld and a piece of aluminum and make the repair from the inside....as you suggested. I built an ice box, for one of our 1st teardrop camper, out of aluminum and used JB Weld to "COLD WELD" the pieces together. It is still solid and water tight after 6 years.
Ross
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Oct 12, 2009 22:58:41 GMT -5
I've got these same cracks. Are these common?
I was thinking of putting a matching piece of used skin from the lower part of the trailer behind it with Vulkem or some other sort of adhesive sealer. There is an autobody filler called metal2metal, which is made with ground up aluminum instead of fiberglass. I would use this stuff to fill the cracks prior to paint. Or would solder work?
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Post by Atomic Addiction on Oct 15, 2009 0:46:56 GMT -5
I think the cracks are a combo of things. Sometimes the aluminum isn't the highest highest quality in some places. Sometimes the siding can shrink/stretch with heat or cold. The trailer gets towed so that vibration can cause movement in the skin.
I don't know. Mine seems to be in a location that would crack if it was going to.
Solder probably won't work. I don't think you can get good adhesion to the aluminum. It would probably crack also.
The JB Weld that Ross is talking about may resist changes in temperature. I don't think it would crack. However it may separate from the aluminum if it isn't applied right. It can also be sanded which may help out.
Regardless. The area where the crack is must be under stress so I think that a backing plate should be used. Any product that you use to fill the crack would be under stress also.
Brian
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Post by sfhurst on Oct 16, 2009 18:35:19 GMT -5
In addition to the other great suggestions you might want to drill a very small (1/16"-1/8") hole at the very end of the crack. This is the FAA-required way to repair small cracks on aircraft. The hole distributes the stress that is causing the crack in the first place and stops the crack from spreading.
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Post by milkweed on Jan 24, 2010 17:02:43 GMT -5
So I see some time has passed since these were posted. Which method did you choose and how did it work out? I am restoring a 1959 Shasta Airflyte and have these same cracks. Not sure what to do. Thanks.
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Post by Atomic Addiction on Jan 24, 2010 20:05:28 GMT -5
I'll let ya know sometime this summer as all exterior work on my Shasta is paused for the winter.
Sorry. I don't have the answer right now.
Brian
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