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Post by melissansc on Sept 14, 2011 10:57:02 GMT -5
We are putting the skin back on and wondering if it is safe to put the Butyl under the skin as well as over for extra protection. As in....Butyl on wood around front window frame, then skin, then Butyl, then window frame. Same thing for front and back corners(under skin, then on skin, then drip rail) rail for protection. Or.....would the Butyl directly on the wood cause more harm than good if we ever had a leak, causing moisture to be trapped in the Butyl that is touching the wood? Or, should we stick w/ original way....skin, Butyl, then drip rail?Any opinions,as we are waiting to hear from you guys before we proceed. thanks
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600 
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Sept 14, 2011 19:20:27 GMT -5
I used butyl window flashing on the wood around the openings (the kind they use on houses around windows) then skin, then butyl, then window/driprail etc.... Or are you talking about the edges? On the edges, I used the aluminum tape on the overlaping edges, then skin then butyl then driprail. Some folks put a layer of butyl betwee the two layers of skin, I didn't cause it wouldn't have fit.
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kayaxi
100 Post Member
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Post by kayaxi on Apr 3, 2012 7:33:51 GMT -5
This is exactly what I'm trying to decide right now. It looks like originally my Compact had butyl over the side skin, top skin on that, then butyl over that and the driprail last. It seems like with tape under the roof skin it doesn't really fit tight so I went without that and put roof over side, then butyl then driprail. I guess it's because I'm using 3/4" tape but there are several places where I can see the seam of the top and side under the drip rail. Perhaps this is because I used the original holes? I know I have to remove it and do over but not sure of the best plan of attack.
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cowcharge
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I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
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Post by cowcharge on Apr 3, 2012 14:13:17 GMT -5
Mine had a layer of putty tape between roof and side as well as under the trim, so I used two layers too. Maybe it was the lack of a second layer of tape that made your skin reach farther down, below the trim? Did you have to re-bend it when you put it back together, or were your original edge bends still good? Mine was tricky getting a good re-bend around the corner, because it really got bent upwards out of shape when I removed it to replace framing wood.
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61 Shasta
100 Post Member
Chuck's Waggin
Posts: 194
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Post by 61 Shasta on Apr 3, 2012 22:03:47 GMT -5
I really appreciate this thread! I am nearing the point of deciding this same issue and would welcome any input I can get. When I removed the exterior skin and drip rail it went something like this: exterior skin nailed to wood framing, tape/putty; top edge nailed through the putty and wall skin; more tape/putty then drip rail. I expected to follow this same procedure with one exception, I was going to use an undercoating material (spray can) on all the edges before starting the skin attachment. I will be using a NAPA product that is the same stuff as I will spray on the underside of my flooring and new floor joists. Thoughts?
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