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Post by tagalong2 on Sept 20, 2011 19:59:47 GMT -5
The ceiling in our 64 compact was dry rotted - as was the street side wall. We pulled the ceiling as well as half of the wall to get a better look and replace the rotten wood. I was sure the roof must leak, but to my amazement, it did not. No matter what we did, we could NOT get it to leak. The wall, well that was another story. The chanel(?) that runs the length of the trailer leaks about half way back, causing water to steadily trickle down the wall in the back half. I know at one point the roof vent leaked (the PO took care of it) so we could not get that to leak wither - thankfully. I guess my question is, could the water streaming in from the wall, wick into the ceiling and cause the majority of it and the 1x2's to dry rot? Or could a leak in the front of the trailer affect the back? I would imagine it could wick anywhere, but didn't know if anyone else had experienced this. Thanks for any help  |
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Post by Atomic Addiction on Sept 20, 2011 22:27:07 GMT -5
This isn't the right place for this post but we need more info to place it in the correct section.
When you say wall. Do you mean the seam at the top of the trailer or window area? The short answer would be to redo all of the exterior sealants (butyl tape and vulkum) on your drip rails and seams.
Brian
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Post by tagalong2 on Sept 20, 2011 22:34:08 GMT -5
So sorry, super new and still trying to efficiently navigate the site.
The seam at the top of the trailer.
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Sept 21, 2011 0:58:57 GMT -5
When you say top though do you mean the top along the side or one of the seams on top of the trailer?
If it's the side, then Brian is right you need to remove the j rails, remove all the old butyl tape, caulk and whatever else is there and then put new butyl under the rail. you will also want to fill the old screw holes in wiht tootpicks and gorilla glue (unless of course you are replacing all the framing up there, which it sounds like you will be.
If it is on of the seams that runs across the top of your trailer, you'll need someone else to weigh in on what to do, outside of my experience.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Sept 21, 2011 1:41:42 GMT -5
I agree that the edge trim is the culprit. I doubt if it wicked into the ceiling area and think the previous leaks caused the rot there. If the roof is "coated", it can cause major metal damage. Since you're not seeing roof leaks, it sounds like the metal is still OK.
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Post by tagalong2 on Sept 21, 2011 11:13:55 GMT -5
The part that is leaking is the top of the street side wall (not on the roof) - must be the J-Rail, as you've called it. (Still way new, can you tell with my horrible descriptions??  ) We've ripped out the ceiling and the street side wall and the only place we show a leak is the back 6 to 8 inches, right before the rail turns and slopes down the back side of the trailer. Once we knew where to look for the leaks, we were able to visibly see right where the leak was on the exterior. There is a gap between the wall and the rail and the old butyl, calk and other "junk" is pretty much non-existant in that area. The roof is not coated. I've been reading mixed reviews about that. I've been told to do it before winter, then I read that no, it is infact very damaging. The roof looks to be in very good condition so I was just going to leave it alone at this point.... Thanks for bearing with me and my lame-o descriptions. I REALLY appreciate all the insight and help!!  |
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Sept 22, 2011 1:28:53 GMT -5
Always glad to help. Keep in mind that water damage you see could have been coming from the entire top line and just settled in the one area. Once you are ready, new RV putty tape should seal the edge/J trim without additional "junk". I like that term...
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Post by tagalong2 on Sept 22, 2011 21:54:17 GMT -5
That would make sense considering the water damage was at the lowest slope of the trailer. Thanks for all your input. We have the J Trim all pulled off and will re butyl it up first thing in the morning. The trim was a horrible pain to get off as most of the screws were badly rusted and stripped with little to no pressure. A little patience and persistence and their all removed and cleaned. Yes, "junk" - it's a very technical term Thanks again, vikx! |
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Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Sept 22, 2011 22:44:33 GMT -5
Also a sure fire give away rust in the screws means water too. Good work on getting the rail off...
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Post by tagalong2 on Sept 22, 2011 23:30:01 GMT -5
Thanks The rust was HORRIBLE! The screws were so deteriorated that when we finally got some of them out, there was no threading on them. Totally amazing. I think I'll buy stock in stainless steel screws now.... |
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Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Sept 23, 2011 8:56:51 GMT -5
though funny thing there are some people who like to use zinc screws cause if they start to see rust they know they have a problem with water. I think it's just as likely that it is just as likely that the zinc oxidizing (rusting) creates opportunity for the water to get in there. If you do a good taping and prep job, my opinion is that ss screws are the way to go.
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Post by tagalong2 on Sept 23, 2011 10:27:18 GMT -5
I think I'll totally stick with the SS screws. From what you've said it sounds like their the way to go. We'll pay super close attention to prep and taping to ensure it's as water tight as possible.
I feel super fortunate that our leaks and dry rot were as minimal as they were!
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) We've ripped out the ceiling and the street side wall and the only place we show a leak is the back 6 to 8 inches, right before the rail turns and slopes down the back side of the trailer. Once we knew where to look for the leaks, we were able to visibly see right where the leak was on the exterior. There is a gap between the wall and the rail and the old butyl, calk and other "junk" is pretty much non-existant in that area. 